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Why not try puting in a thermostat?
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Why would BRP leave it out?
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Why would BRP leave it out?
RT 1000 temp resister trick?
hi I been thinking about the resister water temp fix, and i would like to get some feedback on how everyone who tried liked the results, i have a 162 summit and in deep powder the motor runs soo cool it runs poor, no thermostat causes this problem i know as well as way too much heat exchanger. I have already removed the 1/4 round cooler on back of the summit, and was thinking of trying the resister to fix my over cooling problem.. can anyone give some feedback on this, and where and what needs to be installed to set this up. I know this was talked about alot, and any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance Rod
thanks in advance Rod
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
RT 1000's were designed for no thermostat, installing one might harm the coolant flow design, i cant afford a ruined engine. its not my fault skidoo had "edit for bad language" POOR engineering, but its my fault i bought one. so i'm trying to come up with a reasonable fix for the problem. i wish skidoo would not have the cold seizure coolent protection built into the mapping, but they do, so its come up with an easy fix, or buy new heat exchanger and tear sled apart to fix, or lean on dealer to fix the problem. thanks for trying to help.
Doesn't the Crank Shop sell an inline reducer for the coolant line that raises the running temp by slowing the flow of the coolant?
The resistor that most people tried on the Mach Z's was 1500 ohm. It did nothing imho as the Machs mostly run warm enough to get the computer past the cold start phase. On your Summit it might make a difference as your cooler is way longer than a 121 sled. You can fool the computer into thinking it is warm enough but I would try a stat if it was mine-why worry about the restriction in the line with a stat-you are looking for restriction so the sled will warm up.
For the resistor trick-do a search on this forum-there should be lots of posts on it from 2 years ago.
For the resistor trick-do a search on this forum-there should be lots of posts on it from 2 years ago.
anyone on there thoughts, or experience with resistor?The resistor that most people tried on the Mach Z's was 1500 ohm. It did nothing imho as the Machs mostly run warm enough to get the computer past the cold start phase. On your Summit it might make a difference as your cooler is way longer than a 121 sled. You can fool the computer into thinking it is warm enough but I would try a stat if it was mine-why worry about the restriction in the line with a stat-you are looking for restriction so the sled will warm up.
For the resistor trick-do a search on this forum-there should be lots of posts on it from 2 years ago.
any motorhead guru's out there?
I do have one on my sled but never use it anymore. If the motor is warmed up at all the switch makes zero difference. If you have a Summit and the motor never gets up to temp it may be worth doing.
yes, when i ride on the trail, or off trail when the snow is set up, the motor builds heat, its when we get 3' of bottomless powder, when snow is over the hood, when the motor cools off soo cold i can hold my hand on the engine, and it feels like 60 degrees literally, when sled wont pull hills worth crap. last year i rode 300 miles in the spring mostly, so havent had alot of time in the powder. so if the resistor works, then on those days it can run good, that would be great. does resistor cause any engine lights to go off?I do have one on my sled but never use it anymore. If the motor is warmed up at all the switch makes zero difference. If you have a Summit and the motor never gets up to temp it may be worth doing.
Maybe you guys already know this, maybe you don't.
Almost all automotive temp sensors are thermistors. Resistors that change resistance with temperature. By putting a fixed value resistor in there you are basically fooling the computer into thinkin its at one fixed temperature all the time. This usually doesn't set off any codes unless the computer is looking for the engine to warm up in a certain amount of time or to a certain temperature.
The advantage to fooling the computer into thinking it's at a steady temp is that people usually pick the resistor (temperature) that gives the most timing and best fuel curve. The only downside is that it's running with more timing and leaner fuel curve than the engine likes when the engine is actually cold.
It used to be really common with some cars before aftermarket computer tuning was so wide spread.
There is the basics of what it does. In my opinion this is the wrong way to solve the problem. You really need the heat in the engine to work properly especially a 2-stroke.
My solution would be to put some sort of restrictor in place of the thermostat or block part of the heat exchanger.
Almost all automotive temp sensors are thermistors. Resistors that change resistance with temperature. By putting a fixed value resistor in there you are basically fooling the computer into thinkin its at one fixed temperature all the time. This usually doesn't set off any codes unless the computer is looking for the engine to warm up in a certain amount of time or to a certain temperature.
The advantage to fooling the computer into thinking it's at a steady temp is that people usually pick the resistor (temperature) that gives the most timing and best fuel curve. The only downside is that it's running with more timing and leaner fuel curve than the engine likes when the engine is actually cold.
It used to be really common with some cars before aftermarket computer tuning was so wide spread.
There is the basics of what it does. In my opinion this is the wrong way to solve the problem. You really need the heat in the engine to work properly especially a 2-stroke.
My solution would be to put some sort of restrictor in place of the thermostat or block part of the heat exchanger.
I didnt do it myself but I believe people were hooking up a switch so it would run of the sensor until you know its warm and then you can switch it when you are racing. I think they had a problem even firing up and running with the resister on fll time.Maybe you guys already know this, maybe you don't.
Almost all automotive temp sensors are thermistors. Resistors that change resistance with temperature. By putting a fixed value resistor in there you are basically fooling the computer into thinkin its at one fixed temperature all the time. This usually doesn't set off any codes unless the computer is looking for the engine to warm up in a certain amount of time or to a certain temperature.
The advantage to fooling the computer into thinking it's at a steady temp is that people usually pick the resistor (temperature) that gives the most timing and best fuel curve. The only downside is that it's running with more timing and leaner fuel curve than the engine likes when the engine is actually cold.
It used to be really common with some cars before aftermarket computer tuning was so wide spread.
There is the basics of what it does. In my opinion this is the wrong way to solve the problem. You really need the heat in the engine to work properly especially a 2-stroke.
My solution would be to put some sort of restrictor in place of the thermostat or block part of the heat exchanger.
If the resistor was wired in correctly there was no problem running the sled. The fuel curve and ignition timing are set by air temp and throttle position-not by motor temp. The only thing the resistor does is trick the computer into believing the motor is up to operating temp i.e. no cold start mode.
Thanks for the replys guys, all good info, im looking to adress the problem when my water temp dips low, with guage, when its warm enough, it will be back to normal mode. i can monitor this and i know when to be looking for the problem, ala deep powder.
Rod
Rod
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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