Quick one on CVT clutches, the primary is mostly used to control the engine rpm and the secondary is used to control the track speed, I said mostly becose there is some effect of rpm also from the secondary, but not very much it is when you are getting into the fine tuning that it counts.

So if you are hitting the rev limiter you are over clutched on the primary, if could be spring and or ramps also changing the belt for a stickier one could bring down the max rpm, something like a gates carbon or ultimax xs821 will lower the max rpm by 200.

You need to completely disassemble both clutches, clean and re-grease them, abviessly replace any thing that looks to be bad.
You will need to re-grease the crank bearings with isoflex, fi not you will blow the motor.

 

Thanks @alainm!

I just remembered couple things, one is that bolts on the primary can be rotated (re-indexed) to change RPM, saw that somewhere in the manual, also on my last couple runs I switched the dash to have digital RPM displayed and it was staying at 8,000 then dropping to 7,900 as I got closer to triple digits, but never went over 8,000.

Also I don't know is what rpm it supposed to be at?

Another thing is my buddies brand new (compared to mine) 2021( I think) Renegade blew the rollers out of the secondary before it hit 1000 miles and the dealer told him that factory rollers are crap. His clutch looks similar to mine, maybe same, I wonder if my 2012 need to have secondary rebuilt? I'm guessing at 10k it had to have been done at least once by now. Looks pretty complicated, got to go through the chain case vent with some special tool just to remove it?

Primary looks like it's just one bolt holding it and I've already seen the removal video (remove bolt, rev the piss out of your sled and then extract primary from garage ceiling 🤣)

Question is, does it require special tools once I remove it?? I've got a Firecat that I had to remover and repair the clutch on, and it requires several tools which I didn't have, so I just replaced the parts that were easy to get to. That sled had sticking weight arms and was not accelerating past 70, I kinda fixed that, but still need to take primary apart and get the spider off for which I lack the proper tooling, for now...

Last one about the crank bearings: watched the videos and I know how get the outside ones done, but there are two more in the center and also a water pump drive gear, is there any way to get those serviced? Or they just don't blow up because they have less load on them?

Where can I get the grease? EvilBay seems to be a cesspool of fake items and con artists, unless you know the seller it's a roll of a dice. Are there any reputable Doo places that do mail-order? Also sell tools that I might need? I love this chassis, even if I'm going to get a newer one some day I'm planning to stick with a Doo, so I don't mind buying tools.

 

For clutch work you will need to get a tool set for your sled, many places have them as a kit it is a little cheaper.
In the US you should be able to find the grease it is made by Kluber the proper name to search is Isoflex Topas NB52. If you fail to find some just go to your BRP dealer, it more expensive tho.
You need to open the case to get to the inside bearings.
Do a advance search on the forum you will find very good information.

 

You wrote earlier that I need to service the bearings to prevent engine blowing up, so I guess what I'm asking is if the center bearings are not prone to failure?
Also any suggestions on reputable vendors? For my Cat I get most parts from Country Cat, but other than boatyard across the street from my house and Partzilla I don't really know any Doo retailers and I assume the tool kit is something you buy aftermarket anyway?

 

Don't you have a local BRP dealer you could go to.
This vendor has what you need, they are also a contributor to this forum.
C&T Powersports

The center bearings are not as bad as the external ones as they are lubricated by the oil in the air/fuel mixture.
But it is recommended to rebuild these engines before the explode.
Do a advance search on the forum, there is a lot of information on them.

 

I'll check C&T, thanks!

From what I understand the e-tec doesn't have oil/fuel going though the bottom end, it's a direct injection, at least for fuel, no idea where oil goes...

 

For fuel you are right, but for oil it needs to be getting in there if not the engine would not last 2min with oil in the crankcase.
You ask how I know, many years ago Honda had a front crank seal problem, it would pop out by its own, and one day my mother was driving and the engine light turned on so she pulled over at the next corner not even 2min and the engine was toast.