sorry if I've posted this in the wrong place but my sled is a 2005 rev 600 sdi i bought it last year it was in a barn not well maintained but it has backfire problems and loses power often but when I run the sled on a stand without load on the track it runs perfectly fine no problems at all but on the ground the sled backfires and loses power. It doesn't have bad compression I've replaced spark plugs new gas with sea foam in it. when I got the sled it had a problem with the tether it would beep a lot but I used the extra tether and that fixed it. I don't know what the problem could be I've just listed everything bad that has happened with this sled if you have any ideas on the problem please let me know it would be appreciated if no one knows I'll probably end up bringing it to a skidoo dealer have them check it out.
bearhair
IMO I sounds like one of three things, not getting enough fuel, not enough air, or a spark issue/ fouled plugs.
If it's none of those try reading this post
www.dootalk.com
If it's none of those try reading this post
04 600 rev Sdi backfiring
I bought an 04 600 rev sdi over the summer and now I have taken it out for a test drive and it will backfire staring at 60kmph all the way down to 0 and will backfire 4-5 times, I do know that I need a new key but if I seat it just perfect I can get around for a minute, IS the key the reason...
www.dootalk.com
Amazon.com: NEW! SPI Voltage Regulator Rectifier for Ski-Doo 600 HO SDI Replaces OE # 515176243 : Automotive
Buy NEW! SPI Voltage Regulator Rectifier for Ski-Doo 600 HO SDI Replaces OE # 515176243: Alternators & Generators - Amazon.com âś“ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
This also seems like a good source of information too
www.dootalk.com
04 600SDI Issues
Starting a thread to work out my issue. I bought this sled and knew it had some issues. I have rebuilt the top end, replaced the Nun and a few other small things. See thread here: http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1144441-my-rebuild-project/ I put 400 Km on the sled last winter after the...
www.dootalk.com
This post has been deleted
Could be a bad relay. You can simply swap the 1 and 2 relay in the box and see if that stops the clicking.
My guess however is corroded wiring harness under the ECU and fuse box. You would need to pop off the ECU and the fuse box and open up the loam around the harness there. Look for corroded/bad factory splices. Inspect the back of the fuse box as well.
There are a number of threads on this with pictures.
Clean and lube all connections as you go.
My guess however is corroded wiring harness under the ECU and fuse box. You would need to pop off the ECU and the fuse box and open up the loam around the harness there. Look for corroded/bad factory splices. Inspect the back of the fuse box as well.
There are a number of threads on this with pictures.
Clean and lube all connections as you go.
Unplug the connector with the White/Violet wire from the voltage regulator. It's not needed and it should stop the buzzing.
That ground wire serves the engine management. The engine won't run without it, so it would be like disconnecting the battery ground.
The buzzing is coil whine in the Run relay. It is normally caused by poor contacts in the 30A fuse socket above the battery or a partially broken Red/White wire near the same fuse. I see this when pressing the Start button and there is not enough voltage going to the relay keep the contacts closed. When it happens on its own without pressing Start or pulling the cord, then there is leak in the voltage regulator that allows power from the battery to wake the ECM. Removing the 30A will also make it quit, but the engine won't run. Disconnecting the White/Violet wire is the first thing to try. It is only used to wake the ECM with the pull start which normally adds one additional pull. Pressing Start before pulling over the engine will save one or two pulls. This is the reason that it is not needed.
The buzzing is coil whine in the Run relay. It is normally caused by poor contacts in the 30A fuse socket above the battery or a partially broken Red/White wire near the same fuse. I see this when pressing the Start button and there is not enough voltage going to the relay keep the contacts closed. When it happens on its own without pressing Start or pulling the cord, then there is leak in the voltage regulator that allows power from the battery to wake the ECM. Removing the 30A will also make it quit, but the engine won't run. Disconnecting the White/Violet wire is the first thing to try. It is only used to wake the ECM with the pull start which normally adds one additional pull. Pressing Start before pulling over the engine will save one or two pulls. This is the reason that it is not needed.
Purchasing a new VR would be the last place I’d go. Lots of cheap or free things to try first.
Sent from the Island of Misfit Toys.
Sent from the Island of Misfit Toys.
Bought my SDI a few years ago. Wasn't charging. Turned out to be the VRR. Got one from a dootalker for $40 or so. Been good to us since.
Looks like you might want to find a part out. Watch here and FB market place for SDI parts. A few models and a few years used the same regulator. Be mindful of scammers on FB and here.
As mentioned, no guarantee on used parts but I wouldn't go new aftermarket.
Good luck.
Looks like you might want to find a part out. Watch here and FB market place for SDI parts. A few models and a few years used the same regulator. Be mindful of scammers on FB and here.
As mentioned, no guarantee on used parts but I wouldn't go new aftermarket.
Good luck.
Just an FYI, Partzilla does sell OEM parts. I don't know if the VRR would be OEM, but we've got OEM pistons from them at a really good cost too.
Best way I know how to keep an OEM VRR alive:
1. Good grounds;
2. Good battery (and maintain it);
3. Good relays (ex: sealed Panasonic);
4. Good connections under the fuse box and 4-6 inches into the harness (no corrosion);
5. Proper seated relays (the odd time a female terminal connection can pop-out of the socket;
6. Good 30A fuse socket (oem for quality, but with dielectric grease) - (buzzing is indicative of a poor connection);
7. Good Red/White wire to and from the 30A fuse socket as the wire can break in that area;
8. Avoid boosting if possible, but at the minimum never cause a short;
9. Carry a volt meter.
10. Install a volt gauge and make sure the battery is charging at ~14.2+ Vdc and no higher than ~15.0 Vdc.
Expect the voltage to start anywhere between ~14.2 to ~14.5 and creep up to ~14.8 as the ride progresses.
Other than cleaning the grounds, I'm not suggesting to tear everything apart or to re-wire anything as this can create more trouble and failure points. There are very easy ways to diagnose these components. I reason to believe the Ski-Doo SDI is simpler to diagnose trailside, and make temporary fixes than any other sled.
Best way I know how to keep an OEM VRR alive:
1. Good grounds;
2. Good battery (and maintain it);
3. Good relays (ex: sealed Panasonic);
4. Good connections under the fuse box and 4-6 inches into the harness (no corrosion);
5. Proper seated relays (the odd time a female terminal connection can pop-out of the socket;
6. Good 30A fuse socket (oem for quality, but with dielectric grease) - (buzzing is indicative of a poor connection);
7. Good Red/White wire to and from the 30A fuse socket as the wire can break in that area;
8. Avoid boosting if possible, but at the minimum never cause a short;
9. Carry a volt meter.
10. Install a volt gauge and make sure the battery is charging at ~14.2+ Vdc and no higher than ~15.0 Vdc.
Expect the voltage to start anywhere between ~14.2 to ~14.5 and creep up to ~14.8 as the ride progresses.
Other than cleaning the grounds, I'm not suggesting to tear everything apart or to re-wire anything as this can create more trouble and failure points. There are very easy ways to diagnose these components. I reason to believe the Ski-Doo SDI is simpler to diagnose trailside, and make temporary fixes than any other sled.
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