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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I broke the chain on my 2008 Renegade 600 and of course it broke a hole in the bottom of the chain case. I've ordered all the parts I need (hopefully). Does anyone out there have any experience changing a chain case? The manual says remove drive and secondary shafts then grind the old case off. Going to be a very big job.
 

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Kinda a bugger but alot nicer in the summer temps.

Remove muffler/chaincase cover/chain tensioner, chain/jackshaft/caliper bracket/driveshaft/suspension and track. When you remove the brake pads allen bolt there is a clip to remove.

I found the caliper bracket seized bad like all. Many ways to get off so take ur pick.

BRP puller can bend the brake rotor so b carefull. 2 pry bars and heat is ok but my favorite after doing it many times is Heat the caliper bracket then push on the BREMBO logo. It normally pops loud when u push on the logo. Then wiggle. DONE much easier.

Buy the chaincase assy for $50, when you put back together. Saves making bolts that don't hit track.etc. Also use a little antiseize on caliper bearing when u re-install
 

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I broke the chain on my 2008 Renegade 600 and of course it broke a hole in the bottom of the chain case. I've ordered all the parts I need (hopefully). Does anyone out there have any experience changing a chain case? The manual says remove drive and secondary shafts then grind the old case off. Going to be a very big job.
No Need to touch Brake side at all,
remove muffler, battery if electric start equiped, remove chaincase cover, remove chaincase guts,i found you can easily drill all the factory rivits out, you will have to unbolt oilt tank, and loosen gas tank bolts as there is 2 rivits behind the chaincase to get at, also there is 3 rivits underneath in front of the track right beside front rad, i found air grinder worked best here, then you will bolt back together, any questions or need help just ask, i have done 2 this way
 

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Thanks. You are the first I have seen doo it this way. I tried this way but I have bear paws for hands so it was too tight.

The 30 minutes it took to remove driveshaft was worth it for me to have space to use a cold chisel to remove hucks, and reinstall bolts without damage to track/tunnel. I also had to weld a tunnel repair kit at same time though.
 

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Thanks. You are the first I have seen doo it this way. I tried this way but I have bear paws for hands so it was too tight.

The 30 minutes it took to remove driveshaft was worth it for me to have space to use a cold chisel to remove hucks, and reinstall bolts without damage to track/tunnel. I also had to weld a tunnel repair kit at same time though.
Yea i dont have bear claws, i have removed the brake side when changing a track and it just gave me trouble, making a puller so i just kept it to ones side,

whats this tunnel repair kit you speak of?
 

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I had a secondary tower failure which destroyed the chaincase so I had to weld a BRP tunnel repair kit for the tunnel where the tower pulled out of tunnel. BRP# 518326116

I am sure myself and others will doo another cc in the future by the look of it so thanks for the wisdom. I also balanced the driveshaft and looked over skid to find vibration. I Found 4 bad bearings and the center bar between rails almost gone from the 2 straps eating it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No Need to touch Brake side at all,
remove muffler, battery if electric start equiped, remove chaincase cover, remove chaincase guts,i found you can easily drill all the factory rivits out, you will have to unbolt oilt tank, and loosen gas tank bolts as there is 2 rivits behind the chaincase to get at, also there is 3 rivits underneath in front of the track right beside front rad, i found air grinder worked best here, then you will bolt back together, any questions or need help just ask, i have done 2 this way
Thanks for the info. Still waiting for my parts but once they come in I will give it a try your way. I replaced the track (1 3/4" track) two years ago and can pull everything apart but it's a big part of a day job.
 
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