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Hello,

The discovery of this problem is posted here.

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1222737-2006-tundra-300-rf-rattle/

Unfortunately, replacing that spring is not nearly so easy as I had anticipated due the wire retain ring which is a pain to get on or off. I'm not recommending that anyone do this unless they are quite competent with their tools. There are horror stories on this forum about starters jamming and throwing metal through the hood.

Ed's spring arrived and here are the steps I took to do the job. There may be easier methods.

<a>[email protected]</a>

1. Take the clutch off for more room - you will need the room

2. Note the 3 alignment marks on the clutch as they are important for reassembly
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
3. Here is what the outer half of the clutch looks like

4. Here is where you would add or remove weights (3 places)

5. Here is that wire snap ring that must come off. There is a groove in the shaft but the collar makes sure that it does not come out of the groove
 

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6. Used a very small screw drive to get under on end of the snap ring inside the collar then kept tapping with a small hammer around in a circle until it popped off

7. Here is the sleeve and the broken spring

8. This is what Ed's spring looks like. Unfortunately it is 1/2" too long for the Tundra starter. I sent a picture to Ed and he agreed that it was too long. The other machines that his spring was intended for must have a longer shaft on the starter. The dimensions on Ed's spring are 1.5 inches long with a 9/16 inch outside diameter. The shaft it goes on has a 15/32 inch diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
10. I shortened the spring from 1.5" to 1". I'll post the dimensions of the spring later (left measurements in the barn)

11. Here it is on with the snap ring in place -- there has got to be an easier way to do this. I used an assortment of screw drivers and pliers. Once it is popped into the groove there is the challenge of getting it under the sleeve. Holding the sleeve with pliers while pushing on the snap ring with a screw drive helps.

12. When putting the clutch back on be sure the cover is fitting right on the hex nut shape and don't forget to align with the marks

And the last picture shows the clutch back on -- All done.
 

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As for that C clip. I do recommend you putting something around it or go into a padded room with a shiny white floor because that little C clip will jump around and disappear. I happen to have a junk starter when my C-clip went "tick" and that was the last I ever saw of it. I even had the starter inside a box when I was removing it. It jumped out the top of the box and gremlins ran off with it, as far as I could tell.

(ps. I say padded room because you'll want to bang your head a few times while looking for that clip anyway. Swear it could get lost in a 3' x 3' room painted white.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As for that C clip. I do recommend you putting something around it or go into a padded room with a shiny white floor because that little C clip will jump around and disappear. I happen to have a junk starter when my C-clip went "tick" and that was the last I ever saw of it. I even had the starter inside a box when I was removing it. It jumped out the top of the box and gremlins ran off with it, as far as I could tell.

(ps. I say padded room because you'll want to bang your head a few times while looking for that clip anyway. Swear it could get lost in a 3' x 3' room painted white.
That is so true. Mine did slip once when trying to put it on but I was fortunate to find it in the dirt! Before I attempted this job I looked in the local hardware stores for wire c-clips without any luck because I knew I had a good chance of losing it.

Dan
 

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More Starter Spring Problems

My starter started giving problems again making a terrible noise after starting (metal to metal). Upon inspection I see that the spring had either broken or was jammed in the sleeve. Notice that you can't see the spring here. I could not get the spring lock ring off the way I described earlier since it is looser so the following two tools brought it right off - lever 1 at one open end, then lever 2 at other open end which gets it most of the way off, grab ring, lever the rest of the way off.

Looking at the spring, I don't think it broke but was jammed in the sleeve. Perhaps the lube I put on the shaft dried a bit causing it to stick or the bigger than stock diameter is a problem. I'm also thinking that the 1.5" length may be the right length so I'm going to look for a spring closer to the stock diameter and 1.5" long. With a little less spring tension I should be able to get it back on but I really hate this type of ring retainer - very strong but a real pain to take off and put on.

Notice the damage to the end of the sleeve that the spring goes in which also caused a little damage to the engagement sprocket. I will file or grind that off.
 

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I would suggest SIL-GLYDE BRAKE LUBRICANT for the spring because it will not melt off or harden or some other high temp lubricant just a thought.Hope you have good luck finding the right spring and have a great day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would suggest SIL-GLYDE BRAKE LUBRICANT for the spring because it will not melt off or harden or some other high temp lubricant just a thought.Hope you have good luck finding the right spring and have a great day.
Muskwaman,

Thanks - I will give that a try. I ordered some various springs to try. The size is difficult to match. But if I find one that works well I can post the ordering instructions.

Dan
 

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Hello,

I one from the following spring package that I ordered from Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KSVZBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Compression Spring, 302 Stainless Steel, Inch, 0.6" OD, 0.045" Wire Size, 0.575" Compressed Length, 1.5" Free Length, 5 lbs Load Capacity, 5.41 lbs/in Spring Rate (Pack of 10)

Note that the spring I ordered from Ed might work with the new technique I used for putting on. However, Ed's spring was stiffer than stock which is probably fine. The ones I ordered are probably closer to stock although I do not know the specifications for the stock spring.

I used the tool in the following picture to hold the spring and sleeve in place. Next I used pliers to pop the lock ring on.
 

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After spending about an hour trying to get the retaining ring under the sleeve I figured out the easy way. I used the following two tools levering with the water pump pliers and pushing with the screw driver (or compressing with small needle nose pliers). I added the sil glyde lube at the end and it starts without any metal to metal noise after starting. All seems to be good so we shall see how it lasts.

If you need one I have extras (could not find a pack of 2).

Dan

Note: I left this spring at the full 1.5" uncompressed length.
 

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