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Relocating skid/rear bracket question 98 Summit X

1478 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  CalypsoCowboy
I guess buying used is a mixed bag, after dooing some research this is what I found.

The previous owner(s) did a drop and roll on the chaincase. I can't tell how much the did, it doesn't appear they used a kit as I can't see any additional material.

They put in a 151 skid out of a ZX chassis, what year I'm not sure and the track has been setback for a 156 track. The track is a 2.25" track by using the tape measure. It looks like they did the front relocation fine, it looks like the front mounting hole is back 2.5 inches and there is some additional bracing for the suspension. The middle top idle wheel has been dropped down. The back bracket is puzzling. It looks like the simply moved it back and up the rail, it looks like it was moved back about 6.5" which seems an awful lot as a result it wasn't dropped and now the track is basically hitting the cooler. It looks like the distance between my mounting holes is about 34" this also seems kinda big. So the track hitting the cooler being a bad thing I need to fix the rear suspension and at least put in some new brackets before riding season. So I have a number of questions.

1. I can't see anywhere on the track where there is a part number I could match up and see what year/model the track is from. I've been told it's on the back of the track, where exactly on the back of the track is it? Along those lines, how long is a 151" skid?

2. The 2.5" setback with the 151-156 seems reasonable. So on the rear bracket do I just plan on setting it back 2.5" or do I need to drop it? I want to measure from the top of the tunnel for my measurements, correct?

3. Since I'm probably going to have to have the track and suspension out to do these, does it make sense to add extrovert drivers and a big wheel kit?

4. If I add the big wheel kit, what is the best way to determine where I need to place the hole in the rear bracket to compensate for the bigger wheel and the extra slack I need in the track?

Thanks,
Josh
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You should post this in the mountain sled section you'd probably get more responses.
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Josh,

Here are some pics of my sled, started with a 97 summit, did a SLP D/R (5/8 down and 3/8 back), put a skid out of a 2001 HM X and relocated the front holes down and back 1", then put a drop bracket on the back going back 1" and dropping it down 2.5" ( first pic big silver bolt is thru where the original mounting point was located). The skid came with a big wheel kit and put a ported 151 track on it.





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CalypsoCowboy said:
I guess buying used is a mixed bag, after dooing some research this is what I found.

The previous owner(s) did a drop and roll on the chaincase. I can't tell how much the did, it doesn't appear they used a kit as I can't see any additional material.

They put in a 151 skid out of a ZX chassis, what year I'm not sure and the track has been setback for a 156 track. The track is a 2.25" track by using the tape measure. It looks like they did the front relocation fine, it looks like the front mounting hole is back 2.5 inches and there is some additional bracing for the suspension. The middle top idle wheel has been dropped down. The back bracket is puzzling. It looks like the simply moved it back and up the rail, it looks like it was moved back about 6.5" which seems an awful lot as a result it wasn't dropped and now the track is basically hitting the cooler. It looks like the distance between my mounting holes is about 34" this also seems kinda big. So the track hitting the cooler being a bad thing I need to fix the rear suspension and at least put in some new brackets before riding season. So I have a number of questions.

1. I can't see anywhere on the track where there is a part number I could match up and see what year/model the track is from. I've been told it's on the back of the track, where exactly on the back of the track is it? Along those lines, how long is a 151" skid?

2. The 2.5" setback with the 151-156 seems reasonable. So on the rear bracket do I just plan on setting it back 2.5" or do I need to drop it? I want to measure from the top of the tunnel for my measurements, correct?

3. Since I'm probably going to have to have the track and suspension out to do these, does it make sense to add extrovert drivers and a big wheel kit?

4. If I add the big wheel kit, what is the best way to determine where I need to place the hole in the rear bracket to compensate for the bigger wheel and the extra slack I need in the track?

Thanks,
Josh
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Hey, Josh.

1. I can't see anywhere on the track where there is a part number I could match up and see what year/model the track is from. I've been told it's on the back of the track, where exactly on the back of the track is it? Along those lines, how long is a 151" skid?

Answer: If you measure the depth of the lug, from the under side of the track to the tip of the lug. That is the height.

2. The 2.5" setback with the 151-156 seems reasonable. So on the rear bracket do I just plan on setting it back 2.5" or do I need to drop it? I want to measure from the top of the tunnel for my measurements, correct?

Answer: It is reasonable; however, it doesn't leave much room for adjustments. I usually subract the skid length (151") from the track length (156") which comes to 5" and then divide by 2 which comes to 2.5". I then usually subtract a 1/2" for adjustments.

Ther rear should be moved back just as far. But you also have to drop the holes. The further back you move it, the lower you have to drop it to keep the suspension angles the same. If you move it back and don't drop it, you are effectively raising the front suspension.

3. Since I'm probably going to have to have the track and suspension out to do these, does it make sense to add extrovert drivers and a big wheel kit?

Answer: I would ABSOLUTELY recommend extro's. You can run a loose track, then.

4. If I add the big wheel kit, what is the best way to determine where I need to place the hole in the rear bracket to compensate for the bigger wheel and the extra slack I need in the track?

Answer: You don't have to move the rear drop bracket location on the rear suspension to accomodate the big wheels. You will need to get an on offset axle to make it work. Depending on which off-set axle you get, you shouldn't
have to do anything but add it. On some axles, though, when running a big wheel kit (8") over stock (6 3/8 wheel) you will need to move the front arm location back toward the front of the sled.

Here is a picture of my 159" S-Chassis (well kind of S-Chassis). I have dropped and rolled the chain case. I run a 159" X 2" track. I have a custom rear axle/extensions (from WildChild) with Arctic Cat 8" wheels. I have a 3.5" set-back, with HPG rebuildable shocks.
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Good information. On my first question I meant to ask is there a part number on the rail not the track.

Looks like I just need to pull it out and start having some fun.
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