[MXZonly]

I will be adding reed petals and spacers to my 7c REV and wonder if I need new gaskets between the engine and reed spacers and between the reed spacers and reed cages?

also if going a tooth or two bigger on the top gear, will that make less or more low end?

My and the guys were arguing about the gearing yesterday and Id like to set the record straight. bigger top gear=more or less low end? (more or less top end)

 

[brax4x4]

It's always a good practice to replace gaskets with new ones because they compress somewhat when you use them, hence when you reuse them they might not seal as tight. If you re-use them, check your plugs after a few miles to make sure you don't have any lean issues, possibly caused by an airleak. I think every one at one time has reused the gaskets.
The top gear , the smaller the gear the more torque/ less top end.

 

[MXZonly]

OK then why when I ask for more low end and say I dont need all the top end did most everyone on here tell me to go up a tooth to a 24 top gear on my 7c REV?

I just dont get it?

So I DO need gaskets not only for between the engine and spacers but ALSO between the spacers and cages?

 

[brax4x4]

OK then why when I ask for more low end and say I dont need all the top end did most everyone on here tell me to go up a tooth to a 24 top gear on my 7c REV?

I just dont get it?

So I DO need gaskets not only for between the engine and spacers but ALSO between the spacers and cages?

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The stock reed cage has a rubber molded gasket, it should be able to be reused. The spacers are just the machined aluminum, It is best to replace, but like I said if you decide to reuse them, be cautious and check plugs to be sure. Just takes a minute.
I don't know what gear you had in your sled stock, but the gearing assuming your leaving the lower gear stock, if you go smaller on top, you should get more torque,accelleration. The down side will be less overall top end speed.

 

[MXZonly]

My sled had a 23 tooth top gear and I was told for more acceleration to go to a 24 tooth top gear. Ive been told this by several reputable sources on this site.

 

[brax4x4]

I was searching in "gearing" and found some charts that might be helpful:
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?sh...ndpost&p=264514

 

[MXZonly]

Big John, Cudney?
You guys say go to 24 top tooth, is this for more acceleration? I thought it was?

thanks

 

[_mxz_REV]

Big John, Cudney?
You guys say go to 24 top tooth, is this for more acceleration? I thought it was?

thanks

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I think the articles you were reading was regarding the 26/43 gearing on the 03 800's..I just dropped to 24 on top and really wakes up the bottom..and I also gained 10Kph up top too!
Cheers!

 

[MXZonly]

they knew the sled I was referring to when I spoke with them both and they both said to go to a 24 tooth top on my 7c REV.
It feels snappier out of the hole which is strange to me if I was suppose to gain up top and not on the low end?

At any rate, it did what I wanted as far as feeling snappier out of the hole.

 

[Mac-Daddy]

Did you buy the sled new (are you the original owner). If not, the previous owner may have changed the gears out before you. As for the gears, going up a tooth (from known stock numbers) will give more top end (if your sled can pull that much gear). Just by changing the gearing will not make the sled faster or respond better. Typically most riders will drop a tooth or two and this gives the sled more low end grunt, you may loose a little on the top end but you will get to the top speed quicker. You also may need to change the chain at that time (too long or short). Most sleds are geared for a theroetical speed they can never achive. If you are going for long range speed runs, gear up. If point and shoot on the trails, gear down. Make sure your sled is shifting out all the way first before you gear up. To check this, take a marker, mark a vertical line down the face of the clutch. If the line dissapears then you can gear up (full shift out) if the line is still there 1/2" or more, make sure the RPM's are correct and if so, gear down.

just my .02

 

[djm]

Did you buy the sled new (are you the original owner). If not, the previous owner may have changed the gears out before you. As for the gears, going up a tooth (from known stock numbers) will give more top end (if your sled can pull that much gear). Just by changing the gearing will not make the sled faster or respond better. Typically most riders will drop a tooth or two and this gives the sled more low end grunt, you may loose a little on the top end but you will get to the top speed quicker. You also may need to change the chain at that time (too long or short). Most sleds are geared for a theroetical speed they can never achive. If you are going for long range speed runs, gear up. If point and shoot on the trails, gear down. Make sure your sled is shifting out all the way first before you gear up. To check this, take a marker, mark a vertical line down the face of the clutch. If the line dissapears then you can gear up (full shift out) if the line is still there 1/2" or more, make sure the RPM's are correct and if so, gear down.

just my .02

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Ski Poop is right on the money... going to a larger (more) higher numerical tooth top gear may not make you faster if you are not using all of your clutching right now.... and most stock sleds are geared to a theoretical top speed much higher then the sled can obtain. Often a sled will accellerate both quicker and go faster dropping the number of teeth in the top gear. Will allow the the belt to ride higher in the primary and lower in the secondary.. giving you a higher top speed and it also accelerates quicker.

Bill and Big John both know their stuff.. and I suspect that you told them your riding area, conditions and type of riding and they told you what would work for your combination and application.

 

[f7eater]

7c bm uses 10 tooth drivers rather than the 9 tooth on the same year 800's, 24 tooth usually works well on the 7c