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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Turning to the internet for some help here. I recently got a 2013 XRS 800 off a friend, he had the sled in prior to selling it to me for what he described as a check engine light after fast running and it would only get to about 100 kmh and then struggle to reach 130kmh. The dealer said it was fixed and just needed a new battery and clutch rollers (LOL). So I picked it up from the dealer and within 10 minutes of riding I get the same symptom as he described, so I took it back to the dealer and they pulled a OP 1477 code. Again, they say its fixed, one of the vacuum lines was broken. I then ask if they even took the raves apart, they said they were fine and didn't need to be clean. I get the sled home from the dealer Saturday, check engine light is back after about 5 minutes of lake running.

I took the sled into the garage and decided to do an inspection myself. Below is what the "clean" rave valves looked like... So I cleaned them, 5 minutes on the lake and the light is back on. I COULD be mistaken but the sled appears to run properly except the check engine light, its hard to tell due to so much snow on the lake and not getting a good pull on hard pack.

When taking them apart to clean I DID NOT look at the bellows. I looked at the vaccum lines, they were good.

What could the problem be, only thing left is bellows, but I think the sled is running too well to have a punctured bellow. Could it be a bad RAVE sensor? The sled is going into the dealer again today and I'd like to offer them some suggestions.

HHBZURF.jpg
 

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Just had this same issue on my 2012 800X Etec. Cleaned the valves and no light so far but it's too early to tell. The dealer should be able to test the rave positions through BUDS to determine if it's an adjustment issue or a sensor. Let us know what they find this go around.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just had this same issue on my 2012 800X Etec. Cleaned the valves and no light so far but it's too early to tell. The dealer should be able to test the rave positions through BUDS to determine if it's an adjustment issue or a sensor. Let us know what they find this go around.

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I cleaned them spotless, Scrapped them all off and cleaned them with brake cleaner. Still throwing the light on.
 

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Rave valves need to be calibrated, unless you follow a tightening sequence and procedure which allows both valves to move out freely and smoothly without twisting or binding.
BRP uses buds to aid in their setup.
Use light loctite on rave valve nuts when complete.

Thxs
 

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Have done Buds programming several times but same problem P1477,P1478.

Cleaned raves and checked vacum hose and membran...
 

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I would suspect there is a problem with the adjustment of the link bar and the valves aren't properly synchronized. Buds is probably the solution at this point.
 

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In my case the eventual outcome and repair was to completely clean the rave valves perfectly clean, then we reinstalled the rave assembly's centered in the their slots, in the cylinders, so that they were moving freely and not binding at all before the bolts for the assemblies were tightened, then the link bar was installed. When the link bar was reinstalled and before we completely tightened the bolts for the link bar we pulled out on the link bar with our hand and physically moved the raves all the way out as far as possible and then we pushed them all the way back in as far as possible then we finished torqueing the bolts for the link bar. Then after that was done we had to re-sync the closed, mid and fully open positions using b.u.d.s. This was the only way to get the code from recurring over and over every 10-15 mins of riding. If the steps above hadn't worked and the code kept coming back after these steps were followed the next step would have required replacement of the R.P.S (rave position sensor) which would also need a hook-up to b.u.d.s to re-sync the closed, mid and open postions.
 
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