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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had my 2012 skidoo 600 etec rebuilt. Both the top end and the crank were completely rebuilt, pretty much s brand new short block now. I have a couple of Qs before getting it back on the snow.

1. Is it an absolute must to have the RAVE BALVES SYNCED at a dealer. I have read differing opinions of this some suggest that if they are put back in in the mid position there is no issue can anyone confirm.

2. Is it a must to have the machine put back in to break in mode at the dealer. I read in the shop manual that all it does is adds extra oil to the top end making its way to the crank for six hours. Is this a must do?

If anyone. Has experience with rebuilt etecs and would like to offer any advice I'd appreciate it.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Only 2800miles on her... A broken RAVE VALVE caused the problem contacted the spark plug and pto side cylinder and piston then out the exhaust. Didn't want to chance anything on the rebuild so I had the entire top end rebuilt then the crank sent in and split and lucky I did because crank shop found grit in the bottom of the crank. Upon further inspection the run out and wear on the crank was way out of spec, so the entire crank ended up being rebuilt as well. Crank shop suggested I send the primary in for balance test and it was found to be way off spec and way unbalanced. They fixed that with the computer laser and shaved some weight now it's back I spec.

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Good info. Thanks for sharing!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anyone have any suggestions regarding my two questions

1. Do the RAVES need to be sync with the BUds

2. Does the sled have to be put back into breakin mode with the BUDS at the dealer. Or can I just use caution when breakin it in in for the first 300 miles 10 hours

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The crank shop could not believe the wear and run out of the crank based on the number of miles on the sled. He suggested that I would have maybe gotten another 500 miles out of it regardless of the RAVE failure.

He was so taken back by the whole thing he suggested having the primary checked for balance, once we put that primary on the machine and watched it shack and wobble it was obvious how the crank experienced such premature wear. The crank shop said this year more than ever he is starting to see more and more ETEC cranks coming in. I am starting to wonder just how reliable these etecs really are. As the years pass and the 2010s 11s 12s start seeing 5000 miles in large numbers we may have a different opinion of these motors.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Anyone with a 600 ETEC vintage 2012 may want to have there primary clutch check for balance. It doesn't take much of a run out and weight imbalance to get these thing vibrating and Wollongong way out of spec. I babies this sled and maintained my clutches from brand new and I could not believe how out of whack it was... And this is from factory, it was the way in which the primary was machined and balanced in the first place.

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Thanks for the good practical info on the clutches. Just a question regarding the balancing. How do they ensure both clutch tapers are well seated to the balance shaft?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I regards to Daag44 Q about clutch tapers being well seated I am not sure if I know what you mean.are you referring to the shop who did the balancing and their equipment or are you referring to the figment after balance on the sleds crank shaft. I can think and find out if you can clarify. Thanks

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I was referring to the shop who did the balancing. Thx for checking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Apparently the shop that did the clutch balancing owns a specially tooled machine that is computer operated and was designed to balance and test these TRA primary's. I can't speak to the technicality of how they seat the clutch tapers but from their very technical explanations I trust that they have that figured out. I wish I could provide a more comprehensive explanation but to be honest it is beyond my scope. I know this doesn't really answer the original Q but it's the best I can do.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Can anyone describe what the ETEC breakin MODE actually does. What the engine and the computer are actually doing? A technical explanation would be great. I have read a lot of responses that suggest you need to do this and what not but I have been unable to find an actual mechanical description of what is happening I the engine with the oil.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
One more thing regarding the clutch balancing. The shop explained that they ran the primary threw many different cycles at at range of rpm speeds from 1500 all the way to 8500. The computer calculated run out and weight. They drill adjust and retest.

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Thanks for the explanation. I'm guessing they have a good method to ensure the tapers are well seated.

The break-in will increase both fuel and oil, and also detune the engine. The duration is calculated by fuel consumption, approx. two fuel tanks.
 

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Woa, I just realized that provided the accurate break-in, while in post #7 I complained there was no good information on break-in. Sometimes the mind does play tricks. Anyways I edit that stupid post. Sorry for the confusion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So under normal operating conditions and modest driving style what does the breakin mode accomplish that the normal level of oil and fuel would not. In terms of allowing the Pistons to seat and everything to set up within the motor. I still don't get the real mechanical advantage other than act as s very conservative insurance plan by the manufacturer so that guys can't improperly break in the sled in the first 300 miles, but if you know what you are doing and don't rub wide open for extended periods what is the extra oil and fuel accomplishing other than poor performance?

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

Short montage video of this crappy experience. More just to make some fun of the whole thing!

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No you do not have to take the sled in to sync the valves,just make sure they can travel and not hang up.If you get no codes you are good to go.IMHO it is a good idea to get the sled back in break in mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The struggle I have is that most dealers in my area are crooks. A 5 min plugin with the BUDDS they want the sled for 1/2 a day and $120 to do it. It's not so much the cash at all the I care about its the principle. This is something skidoo and the dealers should be offering as a courtesy to their customers who ended up with inferior product that died way before its time.

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Short montage video of this crappy experience. More just to make some fun of the whole thing!
That was completely nuts! And I like it lol.

To answer your question on the advantage of a break-in schedule is the reduction of heat. The manufacturers could simply not survive an increase in failures. Picture yourself as a small repair shop with limited budget. How do you ensure the sleds that leave your shop wont generate excessive heat and blow within the first ride? It would take very little failures for your shop to go bankrupt and many do. We see a number of members buy kits then post on DooTalk what oil should they use, or how much of it, or what are the clearances. We have seen this happen on DooTalk.

While you may target a large manufacturer, I see the small shops being at a much higher risk by not advising their clients to take advantage of the break-in mode. This is something I've been trying to help point out to our sponsors who build kits, but unfortunately they are not buying into it.

Mosses is one of the few who did take advantage of manufacturing break-in with an RKTek kit, and his sled is still working on his second season. Yet this was not part of the instructions included in the kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Daag44 I hear what you are saying. I think I'll take her in to a rural dealer who said he put it into breakin for me for a small fee. Cheers

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