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E-Tec Rules
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
'10 600 etec 10400 miles. Should rebuild it or wait it blows and possibly causes major damage? Have not done compression test. It runs great.

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old ski-dool
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Do you have another sled to ride?
Do you have ALL the parts ready?
More importantly..... Does the Rest of the sled warrent the rebuild?
 

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'10 600 etec 10400 miles. Should rebuild it or wait it blows and possibly causes major damage? Have not done compression test. It runs great.
The real questions would be for us DooTalk members. I assume you bought the 2010 in 2009. This means it was stored in the summer of 2010, 2011, 2012 2013, 2014 and 2015. That is 6 complete seasons of storage and it still works. That is the most impressive part.

How have you been storing your sled? In a vented area, clam trailer, dry area?

What fuel did you use for storage? Non Ethanol, E10, 91, 93/94?

Did you use any fuel controller/stabilizer during storage?

Did you use any fuel controller/stabilizer during the riding seasons?

Did you clean the injectors?

Did you replace the fuel filter or sock filter?

What type of gasoline did you use during the riding season?

What type of oil did you use?

To answer your question, obviously there is room for a full rebuild/inspection. It doesn't mean that it needs new pistons. How you perceive a rebuild/inspection is entirely up to you and what you find. If the pistons and rings are in good condition, then they are. The crank could probably use a little more Isoflex or simply a rebuilt crank. But I would make darn sure the rebuilt crank was as good as your old one. Say for example you replaced a crank of 2.5 pto runout with one that has 3.5 runout, that would not be good. Should you rebuild yourself or buy a shortblock? That depends on the amount of money and work and effort you wish to invest. You can do just about anything if you put your mind to it, and as good of job as anyone else if you choose to. For every question the answer is it Depends. The real question is do you want to get into this, and do you care enough. For most it would make more sense to sell and use the money for a down payment on a new sled. My personal thought is if one needs to ask the question, I would suggest the down payment on a new sled. With the understanding you have shown through 6 storage seasons, you have earned the right for a new sled under warranty. It is a no brainer unless your interest has shifted into engine rebuilds.
 

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E-Tec Rules
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you have another sled to ride?
Do you have ALL the parts ready?
More importantly..... Does the Rest of the sled warrent the rebuild?
no other sled to ride, going to rebuild it in summer/fall if going that route,

i think so rest sled is good shape, just rebuild the whole suspension this fall.

i want to see how far it will go but on other hand if it blows up first ride of season or mid season i would be done for the season.
 

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E-Tec Rules
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The real questions would be for us DooTalk members. I assume you bought the 2010 in 2009. This means it was stored in the summer of 2010, 2011, 2012 2013, 2014 and 2015. That is 6 complete seasons of storage and it still works. That is the most impressive part.

How have you been storing your sled? In a vented area, clam trailer, dry area?

What fuel did you use for storage? Non Ethanol, E10, 91, 93/94?

Did you use any fuel controller/stabilizer during storage?

Did you use any fuel controller/stabilizer during the riding seasons?

Did you clean the injectors?

Did you replace the fuel filter or sock filter?

What type of gasoline did you use during the riding season?

What type of oil did you use?

To answer your question, obviously there is room for a full rebuild/inspection. It doesn't mean that it needs new pistons. How you perceive a rebuild/inspection is entirely up to you and what you find. If the pistons and rings are in good condition, then they are. The crank could probably use a little more Isoflex or simply a rebuilt crank. But I would make darn sure the rebuilt crank was as good as your old one. Say for example you replaced a crank of 2.5 pto runout with one that has 3.5 runout, that would not be good. Should you rebuild yourself or buy a shortblock? That depends on the amount of money and work and effort you wish to invest. You can do just about anything if you put your mind to it, and as good of job as anyone else if you choose to. For every question the answer is it Depends. The real question is do you want to get into this, and do you care enough. For most it would make more sense to sell and use the money for a down payment on a new sled. My personal thought is if one needs to ask the question, I would suggest the down payment on a new sled. With the understanding you have shown through 6 storage seasons, you have earned the right for a new sled under warranty. It is a no brainer unless your interest has shifted into engine rebuilds.
Bought it new, used auto summerize mode, it has been stored in a trailer in the 2nd floor of a barn for summers,

Gas use 91 non ethanol, store it with 1-2 gallons in tank with sea foam mixed in, some time put sea foam in it during the winter.

just replaced fuel filter for first time last month, oil used blend oil, going to switch to full synthetic once this tank of oil is burned through,
 
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Bought it new, used auto summerize mode, it has been stored in a trailer in the 2nd floor of a barn for summers,

Gas use 91 non ethanol, store it with 1-2 gallons in tank with sea foam mixed in, some time put sea foam in it during the winter.

just replaced fuel filter for first time last month, oil used blend oil, going to switch to full synthetic once this tank of oil is burned through,
I am beginning to see a pattern among owners using Sea Foam during storage and occasional use during the riding season. Thx for the reply. Here is a link on the topic.

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1216865-advantages-of-using-seafoam/
 

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Certifiable Sledhead and Cybertruck Reservation Ho
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Have you ever added grease to the crank end bearings? If not, you should at least do that. They will be pretty dry by now, especially the MAG side (it holds less).
 

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no other sled to ride, going to rebuild it in summer/fall if going that route,

i think so rest sled is good shape, just rebuild the whole suspension this fall.

i want to see how far it will go but on other hand if it blows up first ride of season or mid season i would be done for the season.
Where's the new one?
 

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Certifiable Sledhead and Cybertruck Reservation Ho
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I took roamer's advice and added iso like in the pic. Very easy to do. Thanks roamer.
Happy to help. I can't take the credit for inventing this method though. I read about it here years back... a Dootalker named Thumbdoctor was who I heard about it from.
 

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E-Tec Rules
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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E-Tec Rules
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Have you ever added grease to the crank end bearings? If not, you should at least do that. They will be pretty dry by now, especially the MAG side (it holds less).
have not done that, still got original crank and grease in the 04 with 18k on it,
 
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Depends if you want to keep investing in the sled??? Value-wise the sled is worth about $4-6K-ish if in very good condition today with that many miles.

New, recent or aftermarket parts do not improve the value much if at all (many folks think because they spent a pile of cash on their sled that the value is increased - it's not as you are competing with newer machines in the same asking price of your "improved" machines).

Etec short block is I think between $2-3K + install.

If were my sled, I am meticulous about maintenance and wear items and if compression is still okay, I would at a minimum grease the PTO and Mag bearings for sure, ride and enjoy. For the average owner, at 10K+ miles then you are after the point mileage-wise when most folks either re-build or replace for a newer or lesser mileage machine.

Even if you do a full short block swap, the machine is still only going to be worth on the high side of $5K-ish.

Other than that keep doing what you are doing with regard to storage and operations.

My .0002
 

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E-Tec Rules
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How do you grease crank? Isn't it sealed??

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How do you grease crank? Isn't it sealed??

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Search it. Here's a pic of adding it to the MAG side. The PTO is easier.
 

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I like to grease the wheel bearings before they run out of grease and break, change the fuel filter before it causes a lean condition following by an engine failure, and change the battery before it causes electrical problems. I'm not sure where this saying comes from about not fixing things that are not broken, but it sounds odd to me. Even Ski-Doo says to maintain our sleds if we want them to last. Heck even the dealers agree when it is time for Isoflex maintenance. Just my opinion of course.
 
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