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These are one-off specials. However, with the pictures I have posted (and the additional pictures that I have in my possession) any good fabricator should be able to duplicate them.

The ones on the TUV's are made of stainless, apparently, wihch is overkill in my case. I would just need steel, painted grey. Any good welders/pipe benders out there? Maybe a Millwright or two?
You sure those silver colored ones are not aluminum?

Great idea, though. I think a guy could obtain an already made ATV rack and modify it to fit. Sounds like a good project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
You sure those silver colored ones are not aluminum?

Great idea, though. I think a guy could obtain an already made ATV rack and modify it to fit. Sounds like a good project.
The fabricator himself told me that they were stainless. I agree that they don't look shiny enough to be stainless and I saw no bluing near the weldments, but perhaps they were painted? Perhaps he used to do them out of alu and/or steel, but now he only does them in stainless due to corrosion concerns.
 

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The fabricator himself told me that they were stainless. I agree that they don't look shiny enough to be stainless and I saw no bluing near the weldments, but perhaps they were painted? Perhaps he used to do them out of alu and/or steel, but now he only does them in stainless due to corrosion concerns.
Any input if a couple of flatlanders were to use chromoly (spelling?) as a metal of choice for our XUs. Had a local fabricator that builds roll cages in race cars offer to play with us. I'm unsure of its reaction to extreme cold.
 

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With regard to extreme cold, there's not going to be much a difference in the properties of chromoly from room temperature other than the fact that it will be slightly more brittle, which is a weak point of chromoly fabrication.

Generally, chromoly is much more expensive and harder to work with for the average fabricator/welder. From what I have seen, the fabricated assemblies/components are more brittle and is very sensitive to how you weld it or make joints.

With the resources you seem to have handy... if you were to machine each piece and fit it on the sled, then TIG weld the parts together it's probably a better choice. However, in my fabricating experience I usually have gaps to fill with weld when making turns (even on my best projects there's usually a gap to hide here or there) so, if you have much/any gap to fill, that's typically where the cracks appear. I have seen a fair amount of chromoly assemblies/frames/cages crack and break at these fill joints; they are notoriously the brittle points of any chromoly assembly.

There is a slight weight advantage to using chromoly, but I stand by the fact that mild steel is much more forgiving, easier to work with, and significantly less expensive. One other very strong point of mild steel is it's ability to be field welded by just about anybody. That could prove to be very handy to a terrain racer like yourself at a layover; this in addition to the fact that a mild steel welded assembly would be more likely to take a hit and slightly deform rather than a chromoly assembly that would probably crack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The fabricator himself told me that they were stainless. I agree that they don't look shiny enough to be stainless and I saw no bluing near the weldments, but perhaps they were painted? Perhaps he used to do them out of alu and/or steel, but now he only does them in stainless due to corrosion concerns.
Just as a follow-up to has already been stated here, I personally inspected one of these stainless steel bumpers (Dave Tomassin's) two weeks ago and they are indeed stainless steel, painted silver. Even the rear bumpers with the rope racks are stainless as well. The reason for stainless was it's ability to resist corrosion.
 

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With regard to extreme cold, there's not going to be much a difference in the properties of chromoly from room temperature other than the fact that it will be slightly more brittle, which is a weak point of chromoly fabrication.

Generally, chromoly is much more expensive and harder to work with for the average fabricator/welder. From what I have seen, the fabricated assemblies/components are more brittle and is very sensitive to how you weld it or make joints.

With the resources you seem to have handy... if you were to machine each piece and fit it on the sled, then TIG weld the parts together it's probably a better choice. However, in my fabricating experience I usually have gaps to fill with weld when making turns (even on my best projects there's usually a gap to hide here or there) so, if you have much/any gap to fill, that's typically where the cracks appear. I have seen a fair amount of chromoly assemblies/frames/cages crack and break at these fill joints; they are notoriously the brittle points of any chromoly assembly.

There is a slight weight advantage to using chromoly, but I stand by the fact that mild steel is much more forgiving, easier to work with, and significantly less expensive. One other very strong point of mild steel is it's ability to be field welded by just about anybody. That could prove to be very handy to a terrain racer like yourself at a layover; this in addition to the fact that a mild steel welded assembly would be more likely to take a hit and slightly deform rather than a chromoly assembly that would probably crack.
Once again thankyou for an insightfull reply. If your chatting with Todd ask him to read you my cover letter with our race application. I'm still chuckling.
 

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I think I see a couple of these in my future !
 

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any chance we could see some detail shots of the hinge and rear mount of the SUV rack ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
That's all I have Tom. For what it's worth I spoke to the people who used these bumpers and they were very quick to say that if they went with them again, the hood rack is the one item they would leave out. It was not useful for anything, really since any gear on it at all blocked the headlamp. You could mount up PIAA lamps to get around that, but they all agreed that it really wasn't worth it.
 

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Yeah I saw the headlight issue , you guys have the luxury of a little more storage than I do , I may still give one a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Yikes. I would be so annoyed if that kept happening to my fleet. I suppose even annoyed enough to put very ugly exocages on them.
 

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Mountainsides are all steep stuff and if you are above the treeline you loose your ability to realize the angle you are at due to the lack of trees etc. I tipped mine over when I was at 9,000 ft. on Mt. Shasta in the spring and crossed my fingers that it wouldn't keep rolling. I was lying next to it looking up thinking; stay! stay!.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Very old post I know, but i'm not surprised to see a "dion moto" sticker and a huge custom bumper on the same sled LOL
Yes, the boys in St-Raymond knew how to make those SS bumpers real well. An Italian fellow, was it not? I hear a few new people are making them now that the original guy gave it up. Truth?
 

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Yes, the boys in St-Raymond knew how to make those SS bumpers real well. An Italian fellow, was it not? I hear a few new people are making them now that the original guy gave it up. Truth?
I'm not sure about the guy who build the first bumper, but there is 1 or 2 people who still build similar bumper in St-Raymond. I need one this year for my SUV, those bumper are piece of art.

The parts guy a Dion moto refer me to a m. Bédard, he still build them.

Almost every Skandic sold in st-Raymond have a deer/tree/kangoroo/whateverthefawkyoucanhit-proof bumper LOL
 
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