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Ok guys, this is what I have come to determine. Take it or leave it, there will always be an exception.

E-Raves are our enemy!!!!!!!!!

Everyone should adjust there raves following the proceedure that Rocketman has posted here and it should be done sooner than later. They need to be checked often after they are done correctly. Not doing this can lead to detonation as well as cold siezure and / or both at the same time and also rod bearing and crank failure. Oh - and muf burning. If these are kept in the correct adjustment they will not need to be cleaned as often either.

This will be confusing to some, read it twice if need be.

This is what happens, keep in mind all is compounded with twin pipes on this motor because the twin pipes hold in more heat than the stock pipe. Also a pipe with a longer stinger will usually run a touch hotter than the other - hence - a leaner mag side.
When the raves don't open when they are supposed to, and then in turn don't open to the correct opened state, you will be on the throttle with enough rpms and throttle in place to have the high speed injectors dumping in fuel. This fuel can't be burned correctly because the exhaust opening is not large enough per rpm for the air / fuel mix to burn and exhaust - but still dumping in fuel. This results in high heat building in the cylinder chamber but not showing up on a guage in the pipe. The exaust is not showing hotter because of unburnt fuel is mixing with the exhaust and it is burning in the muffler insulation or throwing flames. The detonation is caused by high heat and not a lean condition and specifically effecting the piston on the exhaust side in most cases, almost no damaged heads or holes in pistons as with a typical lean condition.

Keep in mind the internal temps of these motors are already hotter than a carburetored motor.

When the raves get out of adjustment far enough and / or start to stick, People - us, even though the rpms don't want to cooporate! we seem to want to hold the throttle down even though we know something is wrong. While we hold the throttle the rpms drop and even more gas is unburnt and now dumping in more fuel because it thinks it need more to reach rpms and the throttle is pegged. now what happens is the fuel starts washing the oil off the sides of the piston (intake sides) and then you have a cold sieze and possibly a detonated piston as well.

The more these are run out of adjustment the more crap builds up on them from all the fuel and oil running out the exhaust and the greater the chance of them sticking (open or closed) but most seem to stick closed or do not open fully.

When they don't open at all your motor will not rev past 6900 - 7000 rpms however enough fuel is being dumped in to go wide open. If this happens you may be lucky enough to not blow the motor up right away but you may catch on fire because your mufs will be burning inside. This will however result in a blown motor if you keep running it (if this happens to you, slow your sled down to a low rpms and baby it home). If you attempt to hold this for an extended time you will or may blow the lower rod bearings and even the crank bearings as the longer you try and make the rpms come up the more fuel is washing the oil from these bearings, and, I guarantee it will detonate and sieze.

EDIT..... I should have put this in to begin with....
If you are experiencing a "cutting out" situation when on and off the throttle at high speed then you are in an advanced state of "out of adjustment" and/or on the verge of the raves sticking. This will leave you bitter if not corrected.
END of EDIT

As I'm sure you can tell from all this talk of dumping in fuel and it not being burned, this is where your fuel milege is. Instead of getting distance from your fuel your washing your bearings with it - NOT GOOD.

TIMING: From all the testing I have done (with help from others such as Billy Howard and the confirmation of members here as well as non members)
The best timing for the 05 mapping is the 1.1 timing map and for the 06 it's the 1.3 timing. Sometimes these don't show up on a particular dealers computor (I think it depends on what yours was set up as originally) If these don't come up then go to the next higher numbered timing available on that particular computor. I have checked these on the dyno as well as in the field. **again - there could be an exception but this is what I have found.

Rev Limiter: Some will argue - go ahead. I have never seen one of these hit the rev limiter under 8300, it hits at 8300. You can not drive through it it won't happen. It hits hard and shuts the motor down until you let off and allow it to reset.

Crank Shop pipes: If your raves are not working correctly you may as well take them off. The mag side will need to be richer than the PTO, -4 or -5 trim on the Boondocker box. If you don't run an EGT guage you might as well have replacement pistons and a cylinder close by, or, you will be to rich and they won't work anyway.
The Boondocker box is considerably better than the TFI box. The TFI has no trim from cylinder to cylinder and it has no overlap circuit to help cool the motor after wot runs.
(this doesn't mean that a TFI box can't work, I'm saying the other is better.
If all is working correctly the pipes are awsome.

Porting: It works, but better yet it helps if the raves are not working because it allows more heat to exit the chamber.

Driven clutch: The reason the bolts back out of the rollers is the excessive heat with poor clutching and a high gear ratio. The heat loosens the locktite and the bolts back out. This is also the reason the bushings are not lasting longer. Believe it or not the excessive clutch heat is also the reason for a few jack shaft bearing failures. I have seen with my own eyes the grease oozing from the sealed bearing because of this heat, this will dry the bearing out and it will fail.

As always I will not debate my findings, if your is working good and differently than mentioned above then great and you should leave it alone.

This is the first sled in a long time that I cared to keep.

Warlock
 

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Warlock for president of BRP

All kidding aside
Good job.
 

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Great post,my opion is the same,another measure for checking eraves is a fuel milage useage calculation on every tank of fuel you use to moniter any problems with eraves and cable tensions.Also fuel oil ratios with every fill up with a good method of measuring the amount of oil to put back in reservoir.I just pulled my eraves and they were 10 times better than last year,just wipe them and they looked very good.Good post Warlock.
 

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Warlock-

You have probably done the best/most thorough job of explaining many of the issues that we are all seeing. In the past few weeks, I have really come to realize much of what you are talking about, and it makes perfect sense to me.

Mysterious loss of power - explained.

Mysterious drop in RPM - explained.

Mystrerious heat problems - explained.

Fueling issues - explained.

Ignition issues - explained.

I agree with you 100% and I can say that this is the only thing I can think of yet to make sens of all the problems we have seen on various sleds.

Great Job!

Kevin
 

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Now you may understand why way back i had put Warlock in the top 3 catagory for helpful minds! Thanks for sharing your knowledge! there are several great minds on this site, and i realize it takes us all to make a forum but it's nice to have
somebody that can "cut through the crap" --keep up the good work
in regards to the friggen e-rave cable adjustments, it would sure be nice if they would come out with a more precise form of function!! for it to be so pivital on longevity, mileage, performance, "customer satisfaction" you'd think they could
devise a better way???????
 

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Rick, that all makes perfect sense. Thanks for the detailed explanation.

Mine has been pulling the RPM's all season, last season was a different story, where were you then? j/k

It'd be good if the f… people at BRP would offer their findings too!!!You should take over Corporate Corner
 

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great job warlock! I think this will answer alot of questions. glad you put in the blurb about the 05 timing setting. you and I had discussed it and everyone on here thought I was full of edit for bad language about it! you would not believe the pm's I got about that issue. do you think if the e raves are not giving trouble they should be looked at anyway? mine are still set the way they should be and have never given trouble. do you think it could be a bad batch of cables that could be sorted by vin on trouble sleds?

Fred
 

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I haven't posted on the Mach Z 1000 for quite a while now and I do agree with everything that my pal Rick has posted here and that the E Raves are the biggest enemy. One more thing and that is if a Rave cable is loose at WOT the ECU thinks it has a broken cable and compensates for that as well. Although with Raves working correctly it still doesn't fix all of the issues with the motor performance and some still don't run well even after all of the correct procedures have been done. We have built a couple of these sleds with different ignitions and fuel delivery, we control the Rave openings by RPM and can change that to any RPM to open the Raves and from that experience and seeing what the motor and sled are really capable of doing the ECU program and it's control still leave a lot to bring to the table. With Arctic Cat coming out to play with their new 1000 two stroke and from past experience with them hopefully this will have BRP burning the midnight oil to bring us the very much needed performance that this sled is capable of having and that performance can be done with the push of a button on a computer. Just my 2 cents. -- Bill
 

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Next time you are looking for a donator of a 1000 Gade for testing Rick I will gladly oblige........07 on the way. And to think I didnt hook up with you last week
Gotta agree Warlock for Pres
Man what an informative post
 

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Great post Warlock, thanks!!

One question regarding your timing statement. When you say 1.1 and 1.3 timing, are you refering to adding 1.1 or having 1.1 or 1.3 as the total? My 05 was at 1.3 and I added 1 taking it to 2.3? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Timing,
05 mapping - total 1.1 timing
06 mapping - total 1.3 timing

Power falls off immediately with anything less.
Power falls off more gradual with more timing.

So, if your dealers computor does not show a 1.1 map then you can go UP to 1.5 (I have never seen a 1.4) and this will be fine. After the 1.5 the power starts to fall off faster.
Same scenario for the 06 mapping if you can't get the 1.3 then go to the 1.5 timing.

Again I can't say that someone isn't having good results with something else but this is what we have seen as a constant.
 

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Rick,

Thank you for this informative post. I think it will provide hope for a lot of us. I think I may just hang on to this sled for one more season. It is too bad though that we did not have this info last November. At least for me, I have to wait for December to feel the anticipated improvement. My season is finished.

Doug
 

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I cleaned my eraves and adjusted them as per Rocketmans post and it works slick,I used my digital camera in the movie mode to film the erave operation when spinning the motor past 7000rpm.Did not notice any difference in running the sled but it ran fine before.One thing I noticed was the round slides are getting hammered on the ends,may have to replace them this summer.
 
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Excellent post "Warlock"...enjoyed reading it. The hell with an "X" package, I'd like to Spring Order a limited edition Mach Z "Warlock" model!!!

P.S. Maybe I'll drop one of those UBR 990's into my 440 like that fast guy in Minocqua!!

Thanks,
Bomber 1
 

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squish band said:
I cleaned my eraves and adjusted them as per Rocketmans post and it works slick,I used my digital camera in the movie mode to film the erave operation when spinning the motor past 7000rpm.Did not notice any difference in running the sled but it ran fine before.One thing I noticed was the round slides are getting hammered on the ends,may have to replace them this summer.
[snapback]755366[/snapback]​
What does it mean when the round slides that go in the boost ports get hammered over does that mean the cables are out of adjustment or os that normal wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's normal wear for the design, not sure I agree with it.. but.

They don't have to be replaced just file the sides smooth.
 

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Warlock said:
It's normal wear for the design, not sure I agree with it.. but.

They don't have to be replaced just file the sides smooth.
[snapback]760299[/snapback]​
My egt gauges show alot of heat on the mag side under full acceleration but the piston shows no burn pattern and looks very rich ,I think the fuel is burning in the pipe fooling the egt gauge ,power is down and when running on the stand mag pipe is cold to touch compaired to pto pipe. any ideas could this be e-rave out of adjustment or need to adjust trim .?? also pops after comming to idol after a run. thanks
 

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I was thinking the same thing warlock,I measured the peened section and it is the same diameter as the upper part of the shaft, so as long as it doesn't peen bigger.
 
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