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Mod'n is my thing
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Irondog has slightly different setup than mine but his is a good setup too. This one uses all the factory 440 controls on your stock HO sled. May be slightly different for a SDI.
Here's the link to Irondog's setup in the mountain forum.
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?sh...&hl=irondog

Wire pinout for 440 controls to the main 6/800HO body harness.

Item Wire Color Pin I.D.
________________________________
Brake---- white--- 3
Brake---- red/yellow --4

Left Hot Grip---- orange-- in from switch
Left Hot Grip---- orange/violet-- in from switch
Left Hot Grip---- black--- 1 or Grd.

Right Hot Grip---- orange-- in from switch
Right Hot Grip---- orange/violet-- in from switch
Right Hot Grip---- Grey/Yellow -- 1 or Grd.

Thumbwarmer---- brown-- in from switch
Thumbwarmer---- brown/yellow-- in from switch
Thumbwarmer---- yellow/black-- 1 or Grd.

Dimmer-- grey -- 10
Dimmer-- red/orange-- 11
Dimmer-- grey/violet --12

RER Switch---- beige-- 8
RER Switch---- red/grey-- 5

Kill Switch black--- 1
Kill Switch black/yellow--- 2 in 03/6 in 04

Hot Grip/Thumb Switch--- red/yellow --13
Hot Grip/Thumb Switch--- orange-- out to element
Hot Grip/Thumb Switch--- orange/violet-- out to element

NOTE: When using a 440 speedo with a Powertech harness you need to swap pins 4 and 7 on the large grey connector that plugs into the gage for the Tach to work.

You can use your stock handlebar connector and splice in the 440 wires or just buy a new connector and pins to make it easy.
 

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Mod'n is my thing
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Here's the parts I used except for the old handle bar harness which is in the pic just to show you what is being replaced. These stock 440 bars I had powder coated gray for my Shark Sled (they come black).

Here's another set already done except for enclosing the wires which I wait to do until it's on the sled.

I used a 04 holeshot button for the electric start/RER. You need to pull back the cover on it and cut the resistor off it to make it work. The 05/06 one does NOT work. On this new set I'm going to use one off the Polaris 440 or a kill switch off a Yamaha dirt bike which are both the same as far as I can tell (momentary switches).

I use the 440 throttle lever and a Powermadd Dual position throttle block. The 440 lever needs the holes enlarged to fit the PM pins. I use a heated drill bit and melt the new size into them. I think the new XRS throttle block and lever would be a good choice as well.
 

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Thanks for the speedo/tach info Chuck, I was planning on deleting my stock speedo & tach and using the 440 tach with the warning lights. I thought I was going to have to figure it all out for myself - but you've already done that for me. Thanks
 

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For those of you trying this...remember there are like at least 3 wires that all go to the ground wire. Splice and solder them together and add one wire coming out that will have the terminal on it to plug into the connector.

Same goes for the hot grips/thumb warmer wires. Orange, Orange/violet, Brown, and Brown/Yellow. Solder the same colors together....so Orange to Orange and also include the brown/yellow (edited) wire. Then that set of wires goes to one side of the switch.

EDIT: with a tip from Dootalker on hot thumbwarmer cure.

Got it. Switching the wires seems to work. Thanks for all your help.

QUOTE
Try switching the thumb warmer wires around to the other side of the switch and let me know how that works. I think mine was hot last year too.

thanks, Chuck

QUOTE
Chuck,
I finished up the wiring on my 800ptek/race chassis. Your pinout information was very helpful. I connected the brown/yellow and orange/violet to one leg of the heater switch (race switch on dash), red/yellow in the middle post and brown and orange wires from the grips together on another post. The heat comes on but the thumb heater gets too hot. Has this been your experience? Or, did I cross some wiring up that is causing the thumb to be hotter than the grips.

Any suggestions for mellowing out the thumb heater while allowing the grips to stay warm? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again for the informative posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Up with edit for fix to hot thumb warmer. It appears that the brown/yellow thumb warmer wire needs to be on the same side as the orange wires and NOT the orange/violet as I had previously posted.
 

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Very well done there Chuck !

I ran across this PTT Button the other day - you might want to check it out for future builds in place of the momentary button that you were refering to in your post.
Its pretty reasonable also - like under $10.00.
I found this site off of the links page - here on Dootalk.
PTT-Momentary Button Link
 

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I wont have a momentary switch by tommarrow, will the sled run if i just cap the RER wires off for a few days? just no reverse??
 

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You can use your stock handlebar connector and splice in the 440 wires or just buy a new connector and pins to make it easy.

Just thought id let everyone know that if your doing this and putting the new terminals and terminal housing in to just plug in the part number for the large spaded terminals is #515 175 273 and you'll need 3 of them and the small spaded terminals are #515 175 232 and you need 7 of them. The terminal housing part number is #515 175 352. I know it took me a couple phone calls to different dealers to find this out so it might be helpfull to just quick look here now.
 

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Anybody use different hand grips other than the standard grips that Ski-doo uses for the 440 bars? I'm looking for something with a little more grip that still warms your hands good when the heaters are on.
 

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Anybody use different hand grips other than the standard grips that Ski-doo uses for the 440 bars? I'm looking for something with a little more grip that still warms your hands good when the heaters are on.
ODI Ruffin 8" Grip. They work great. you can also use the Moose ATV handle bar elements sold at dennis kirk for warmers. just splice into your stock wiring. they are a 3 wire element
 

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Has anybody done this with a 600 sdi motor? The wiring is different and I have three wires coming from the rer button. I have figured out all the other wires. The wires that come from the rer button are as follows.

white to red/brown to #6 slot on big connector under console that goes to relay
red to black to seperate connector that goes to ground
black to beige to seperate connector that goes to ecm

I want to use the rer button off the zx chassie but it only has two wires. I think the third wire is to pressurize the fuel injectors. Anybody know of a three wire rer button or do I not hook up the third wire and will it work. Anybody have any ideas?
 

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i put a sdi in a 440 last year and i used a RER push button from a zx chassis, i'll try to get the diagram for u 2morrow
 

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I bet if someone would make a full set of these bars up, and sell them as a plug n plat unit, they could make some nice cash. Most people don't wanna dick with all this stuff! Just a suggestion!
 

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A lot of people don't like to mess with this, but the cost of the components to make plug-n-play bars would be outrageous - probably over $350 retail. Most people will balk at that price.

- bars
- warmers
- grips
- swithes
- wiring
- billet throttle block

Bump for a real useful topic ..
 

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I guess I meant more of a package of parts all put together, so they're all there and all the right parts, but then have the wires color coded or labeled for the where to wire it into your stock sled.

Its gonna cost alot no matter what way you do it, cuz u still need to buy all the parts anyway......
 
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