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Are there any special procedures or steps that you go through when starting up your Gen4 850 for the first time after summer storage?

On my old Ptek, other than filling it with fresh fluids, I tried to wait until there was enough snow on my property to give it a good run on the first heat cycle to clear off the plugs if I wasn't going to put fresh ones in, but other than that didn't do anything specific or special for the first start. Anything I should be changing or adding for my new Gen4?
 

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With any sled that has been sitting for a prolonged period of time, I roll it over by hand with the clutch before hitting the electric start. Just in case a slow oil or fuel leak has filled the crankcase, and could result in a bent connecting rod. Other than that, let it rip.
 

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E-Tec Rules
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Put fresh gas and oil in thats it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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With any sled that has been sitting for a prolonged period of time, I roll it over by hand with the clutch before hitting the electric start. Just in case a slow oil or fuel leak has filled the crankcase, and could result in a bent connecting rod. Other than that, let it rip.
I absolutely agree with this, had a 2004 SS that this happened to me on but it was not electric start. I have actually added an oil shut off valve to help eliminate the crank filling with oil if there is an issue during storage. Of course it is up to you to remember to turn on the oil again.
 

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Push little orange button, breathe deep!
same...been starting it every month all summer long and bringing it up to full temperature each time.
 

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With any sled that has been sitting for a prolonged period of time, I roll it over by hand with the clutch before hitting the electric start. Just in case a slow oil or fuel leak has filled the crankcase, and could result in a bent connecting rod. Other than that, let it rip.
i like this^ and will start doing form now on
 

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With any sled that has been sitting for a prolonged period of time, I roll it over by hand with the clutch before hitting the electric start. Just in case a slow oil or fuel leak has filled the crankcase, and could result in a bent connecting rod. Other than that, let it rip.
I think the rolling the engine is a good idea.

I have been sledding for 28 years. How likely of a situation is this? I would guess it is in the low low percentages like almost zero percent?
 

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Well, I've seen it myself a few times so it cant be all that rare. Series 3 two strokes are known for the center crank seals leaking oil when sitting for a long period. It takes so little time to roll the clutch and make sure there isn't going to be a hydraulic lock that I've just made it habit.
 

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if you are like me you filled with fresh gas spring and ran it with some fuel stabilizer - I siphon out as much as possible and fill with some fresh fuel before firing up. Gas I removed goes right in the truck to mix with a fairly full tank as it burns fine. check for any loose bolts on suspension - check and adjust track alignment then check and adjust ski alignment and replace carbide if needed. Then periodically sit on sled and daydream before snow flies :RevDude:
 

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Remove spark plugs and check cylinder bores for any scoring.

Remove battery and check for leaks.

Pull wiring harness and check for any critters chewing on things.

Replace hyfax and runners.

Read manual.

Recheck all of above....then start!

Novi Snowshow this week can't wait.
 

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Just took out my 850. It has been wrapped up and outside all summer. Started first pull, just like last year. Quite happy with the 850 engine.
 

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Way back when, my 1995 780 tripple Mach Z did that hydraulic lock thing. Sat all summer and oil leaked in so when I was pulling it over, it started right away and then boom, bent a rod. Man did that suck. And I had already bought a 97 Mach Z and was just about to put the 95 up for sale. 1000 bucks later, then I sold it.
 
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