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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, so I'm trying to get the primary clutch off my 97' 670 and I'm wondering if there's anyway that I can prevent the crankshaft from moving? Reason I ask this is because I only have the inner sheave attached to the shaft and I can't find any way to hold it down. The outer sheave basically popped off when I was running the motor, and that's why I'm trying to get the clutch off so I can send the whole thing in to get that figured out. I'm borrowing a clutch puller this Saturday, so I'm trying to get this figured out ahead of time. Thanks for any help, love this site so far. -SkidooStud
 

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Alright, so I'm trying to get the primary clutch off my 97' 670 and I'm wondering if there's anyway that I can prevent the crankshaft from moving? Reason I ask this is because I only have the inner sheave attached to the shaft and I can't find any way to hold it down. The outer sheave basically popped off when I was running the motor, and that's why I'm trying to get the clutch off so I can send the whole thing in to get that figured out. I'm borrowing a clutch puller this Saturday, so I'm trying to get this figured out ahead of time. Thanks for any help, love this site so far. -SkidooStud
Get familiar with the search function as there is a wealth of information in these threads. The method you need to search out is the "water/teflon tape/clutch bolt" clutch removal method. It works effortlessly everytime and will work for you in your situation.
 

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Without proper clutch tools it will take a little more effort. Probably best to have a buddy help you hold the inner sheave while you operate the puller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I tried the teflon tape idea earlier and I got stuck because I had no way to stop the inner sheave from moving. I'm wondering if there's a way that I can stop that from moving or lock the crankshaft somehow. I can't imagine someone holding the inner sheave while the other works the clutch puller, i dont think you'd be able to keep a good enough grip.
 

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If you can gut the outer half to go back on the shaft you can use a ratchet strap to hold it. Put the hook in the sheave, wrap it around once and tie it off to the chassis by the footwell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gahhh that's a great idea, except the outer sheave is in pieces, and I have no clue how to get it back together. I heard about somebody putting something in the mag side spark hole to stop the piston from moving...would that be worth a shot?
 

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I have done that before. Except use the pto side in this case. Recoil rope works good. Make sure you don't stuff the end down a port. If it's stuck bad, abort mission. I wouldn't want to go more than a couple hundred foot pounds or risk bending the rod. But it does work.
 

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I've gotten both clutches off and even changed the springs in them without a single clutch tool, was tidious but did it a couple weeks ago. We tied the spare tow rope around the clutch to the foot well of the sled. Took the stock bolt, wraped it with white plumbing tape and pored hot water from a cup into the primary while it was on its side. Used a block of wood and clamps for the primary/secondary cup, took a while because to get to each bolt hole out of the 4 in the primary you have to keep adjusting the block of woo, sucked not having the button holder tool, had to have 2 sets of hands. I had to hold 2 in place, dad hold one button in place and he slid the clutch top on. Took like 10 times lol. Worked perfect tho. I do recommend the proper too.s

In saying this, 3 days after I finished the clutches me and my dad decided to 50/50 and go half on the clutch tool with compressor, thats the main tool that you should have. Makes it alot easier and less marks on the hand haha.
 

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Yeah, I tried the teflon tape idea earlier and I got stuck because I had no way to stop the inner sheave from moving. I'm wondering if there's a way that I can stop that from moving or lock the crankshaft somehow. I can't imagine someone holding the inner sheave while the other works the clutch puller, i dont think you'd be able to keep a good enough grip.
With the hydraulic method (teflon tape/water) it literally does not take much effort to hold the inner sheave. I can pop mine off with this method, prop the sled up on it's side balancing against my right thigh, pour in the water, install stock bolt with teflon tape, tighten down with standard 3/8" ratchet with left hand while holding the clutch outer sheave with my right hand (inner sheave in your case) after a couple turns of the bolt "pop" off it comes. I use this method all the time in the parking lot on the mountain when we are tuning. (* Note: a sandwich baggie can be substituted in place of the teflon tape if needed....ask me how I know, lol).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just got the clutch off yesterday with a clutch puller...easiest thing I've ever done. I tightened up the the puller, tapped it once with a hammer, and it popped right off. Thanks so much for all the help!
 

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Just got the clutch off yesterday with a clutch puller...easiest thing I've ever done. I tightened up the the puller, tapped it once with a hammer, and it popped right off. Thanks so much for all the help!
That's great, try to keep the hammer to the last resort as it's hard on crank/bearings.
 
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