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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a great day of riding on saturday, but after a few of hours my clutch started giving me problems. At first, it wouldn't dis-engage all the way, so even at idle the sled wanted to creep forward and using the brakes would kill the motor. I was thinking there was something wrong with the secondary or the motor mounts or something, but couldn't figure it out. We were right near a town when that happened so we stopped for a bite to eat. after lunch, the problem seemed to go away, but then a few miles later it felt like my sled was just screaming, I looked down and tach said 9,000!!! stopped, looked, and metal flakes were coming off the primary... I could see a wadded up bushing in one of the holes, and a missing/broken arm. I think the arm broke off first, and then running it un-even caused it to spit the bushing out. It must have really caused it to heat up too because it feels like the clutch is welded on to the crank now. I usually take my clutch off with a strap wrench and breaker bar, but it's not coming off like that this time. Even with a impact wrench it won't come off. (my good compressor is broken right now, I was using a weasly 2hp pancake compressor...)

Does anyone have any tips about how to get a clutch off that won't come off? I was thinking of heating it with a torch but I've never had to do that before.

Anyone have a used primary for sale? I assume any clutch off a series III motor will fit my sled, can I go back even further than that or does it need to be off a series III motor? What years will fit?
 

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Just pull the outer half. Pull the bolt out and then just tug the moveable half. It should come off by itself, leaving the fixed half on the shaft. You should be able to get to all the parts you need with just the moveable half. I am guessing you will need to replace at least one arm and all the bushings and maybe the spring. You can buy just the bushings at Fett Brothers. Doo only sells the rollers with the bushings in them and they are expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I could probably fix it on there, I need to look at it, but judging by the amount of aluminum shavings in the bellypan I think I might need to replace the moving sheave (or at least get it rebalanced) and maybe the fixed sheave too. I think it's the center bushing on the sheave side of the moving half that came out. I'm not sure if the shaft on the fixed half is damaged too. In any case, I hate it when a clutch won't come off, I want to get the fixed half off somehow. I still can't figure out why it's on there so tight, I just had it off a couple of weeks ago and I used a torque wrench when I put it on...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does anyone know what the differences are between a '02 800 clutch and a '02 500-600-700 clutch? When I look at the microfiche it shows the moving sheave (just the sheave, not the ramps/arms/spring/govenor,) is $250 for the 500, 600, and 700, but the 800 moving sheave is a different part number and it's $450?!??! What's the difference? everyone (except the microfiche) is telling me the 600 and 700 clutches are the same...
 

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Wait till the clutch engine are cooled down good, the colder the better, apply your puller and torque down good, get a kettle of HOT water and slowly pour on the clutch shaft at the inner half, for at least a minute,"BANG" it usually will pop. I have used a Burnomatic torch too but you have to be careful.

I had one sled, that was the only way I could get the clutch off, that was on a ZX chassy, sometimes you can get the sliding half off on a REV chassy with a little persuasion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I left the puller tight for 3 days, went out there and hit it with a hammer again, and it popped right off. I think the sled was too cold/frozen when I tried it last time, it's 45+ degrees here right now. I think the other reason it popped right off is that I had just gone to the store to buy a new impact gun which I was about to put to the puller... Didn't even get to use it.

The damage isn't as bad as I thought, it broke one arm, and spit out the govenor cup bushing. It lost a little bit of material from the top of the govenor cup and the inside of the spider, I assume from when the bushing was coming out it was getting smashed in between there. I don't think it lost enough material to be unbalanced. Is there any place in MI that re-balances 'doo clutches?

My 280s are a little peened over, but I think I will just file those smooth, the engagement was a little high anyway.

I think I need 3 new arms. I notice that there was alot of play in the rollers at the end of the arms. More play in the one that broke, but quite a bit in the other 2 as well. If I was going to buy some adjustable weight arms, are there any out there that are good without costing 250-300 bucks for a set?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
anyone? come on, there's got to be a way to turn this into a thread on foreign policy....
 
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