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So the RAS-2 thread awhile back got me thinking, also another member put them on his 2009. Well it fits our 2003-2007 sleds. Now just gotta play with tuning washers to make sure the geometry reacts propely when riding. Stock Revs came with one washer, so that's what I put back in for now. The RS set up has two between the arm and joint. Have full movement up so nothing should hit anywhere. Only thing is you need to buy the lock nuts because the RS joints are not drilled for a castle and cotter pin. Will be interesting to see how much of a difference it makes.

EDIT:Discontinued
2013 RS 600 XP
Part # 505073316 $31.99

EDIT: 10/9/2016 seems that the 2014+ RS upper balljoint will work as well, the part number was just changed. May need a spacer/washer to go on before the nut due to the taper being a little below the spindle.
2014+ RS: 505073561

EDIT: also make sure to shake down your front end good. 1500mi on my sled and everything up front had play, uppers/lowers ball joints, A-Arm bushings( and those oillites are the awesome btw)

EDIT: added 3rd pic of A-arm orientation after things are snugged up(nothing is torqued except A-Arm bushjngs) it looks 100 Xs better than stock. Definatly will have to put on some miles and either add a washer on each side or remove the one that is there. Don't mind my messy work area!
 

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Armchair Interweb Coach
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Now that is a great idea!!!!


Glad to see someone tried this as many of us were wondering. Great job!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Doesn't seem like it would be a noticeable difference really.
I messed up the side by side pic, I didn't have the stocker in the correct position. I retook the second pic, much more of a difference as you can see.

Doo raised the spindle of the RAS2 12mm compared to the stock RAS, you'd be surprised how much of a differecne a few mm can make in handling/bump steer.

All the other Mfgs have had tall spindles for a few years.
 

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I seen the other post about those taller ball joints and forgot to see if the dealer had some the other day

Hopefully you will have a test ride report soon,,the other guy that did is close to me and we need snow
 

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Neat. By any chance did you put an angle finder along spindle when the sled is sitting level and cycled the suspension from full extension to full compression and compared the resaults from stock ball joint to rs ball joint. Also if you add the 440 upper a-arms it would make another option to easily change the geometry as the upper ball joint mount on that style of arm is moved down compared to the stock rev a arm. Keep us posted. Interested in how it handles now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You still want the body to be at an angle. Its a safety step to keep the ball from coming out of the socket if hit really hard.
Ok I can fix that easily, thanks for the heads up!

Thanks for the suggestions fellas, won't be back working on the sled till Monday.

I'll check out the 440 stuff, and I do know it has been said that's these won't fit X package, not sure if that's just 09-14?
 

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Curious how this will work out for you. RAS2 from what I've noticed makes the a arms parallel, this seems to have passed the parallel point. Keep us posted, but I would think if it was machined down a bit to make arms parallel, you'll be closer to RAS2..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Curious how this will work out for you. RAS2 from what I've noticed makes the a arms parallel, this seems to have passed the parallel point. Keep us posted, but I would think if it was machined down a bit to make arms parallel, you'll be closer to RAS2..
I will def measure the CTC of the A-arm mounts Vs the ball joints. I can see that too now that im looking on a full screen. Could make this experiment null and void! lol
 

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What machine are those tall ball joints off from?
2013 RS 600

part # and cost in the first post

Can a moderator fix the title for me? This part is only for the 2013 RS, the part # is different from the 2014/15 RS
 

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Thanks mach! I built new upper arms for my 03 with hiem joints on frame side for caster and camber adjustments! All I need now are the tall ball joints!!
 

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Just cycle the a arms/front suspension with the shocks removed to see what happens

I am heading to a dealer today see if I can get them,,$60 is a pretty cheap experiment
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just cycle the a arms/front suspension with the shocks removed to see what happens

I am heading to a dealer today see if I can get them,,$60 is a pretty cheap experiment
When I cycled the arms last night, I didnt notice any thing that would make this not work aside from the possible over parallel that I will check at 5pm.

I had to wait a month for these things from Gearhead.com , there was a problem on their end. Not sure if it was because they didnt have it in the warehouse or couldnt source one. I called a couple of dealers the week before Xmas and they all would have had to order as well.
 

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Alright need some help.

Where would you guys measure CTC for the inner part of the two arms and where would measure for the business end by the joints?

At the lower ball joint end had a couple different spots to me. Either where the lower arm ends and is welded to the bracket for the joint, the middle of that tube. Or move out to the middle of the bracket where the joint is pressed in? The bracket is welded at a different angle compared to the tube, thus changes the measurement.

Or on the very outside following a line through the ball joints middle to middle?
 

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You got me. How is this ball joint a better option than the stock one. What is the purpose of having a taller ball joint?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Like in most performance applications, more parralel a-arms = improved handling. Read up on the RAS2 suspension Ski Doo came out with last year. Also Doo put these on their RS sleds for the 2013 model year, so it's a proven piece.
 
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