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Ok. Its me, back with another poor man fix that I found to work great. Not trying to sell anything here... not sayin that my fix is better than snow trackers, slim jims, or anything else!

Just sayin it worked for me. Maybe someone else will try it and find that it works ok for them too:
 

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Someone help with my exact ski type/model on a 2012 mxz sport 600ace, but here is what I did: add a 6" woodys flat top carbide on the outer slot on the skis (had to drill holes to fit it), but i blocked that outer carbide down (washers as shims beteen the bar and the ski) so that it contacts the snow at the same level as the main center runner (an old worn down factory original 6" carbide) .

Mine is as much steadier going straight, less darty, with no push in corners, and has less "rut" steer.

I have yet to weld on a couple washers in the middle of the new outer bar (which is suspended a bit off the ski. I also need to grind down the washer sides which hang out a bit (but work kinda good as poor mans snow scratchers/sprayers :)

400 miles in various conditions on it now and no complaints. A bit "draggier" at times, and need to be a little cognizant of obstacles (as those with snow trackers will tell you), but I've hit some pretty big rocks, roots, and other crud with no big problems.
 

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You got my attention 89MX. I was wondering about that height difference too. It must be at least 1/2 inch? So, lots of washers.

I just put new 4 inch stock in the center runner and moved the original 4 inch stock to the outer runner.

My outer runners were getting beat-up so this was more about protecting them. Where I ride, I will probably wear out a set of carbides every season. Lots of gravel roads to cross.

How did this change affect the steering effort? It's like you are running a sooper wide dooly!

My change felt a little stiff at first but after 50 miles I did not notice it at all. Still darts in hard tracked up conditions but not bad. I only notice it when I am tired at the end of the ride.

Thanks for posting your "poor man's anti darting invention".
 

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I'm sure you have 5.7 skis. I've never been a fan of them and usually swap them out as I get better handling out of single runner skis. But I've never had a darting problem, and I've never shimmed an outer carbide down like you describe, but I ran a Woodies hard-bar (no carbide at all) on the outer of my 5.7 skis for years to protect the ski itself from wearing out. On the downside I boondock a lot and every time I'd put the outer edge of the ski against a tree stump to make a turn, or while trying to fit between 2 trees that were too close together and so-forth, I would pretzel the carbide and come out of the situation with a twisted ski. I was regularly pulling the outer bar, hammering it straight on a vice, and reinstalling it.

So just to add another twist on your thought, to avoid that problem I swapped the skis. Now I still have one sled with factory 5.7's and I actually run them swapped left to right. My outer bars are now inner bars. This way they can't hit anything when I'm bouncing off trees, and they stay straight because impacts are absorbed by the flexible outer ski edge no problem instead of the inflexible outer bar. On trail they handle the same with bars on the inside as bars on the outside in my experience.
 

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MinnDave: No complaints on steering effort. Even with front skid shock set on softest and riding hard pack trails here lately. Grab some washers and give it a try!

Craze: Bouncing off trees and bending wear rods on a regular basis?! (Remind me not to ever lend you a sled! :) But seriously; Interesting idea! I'm going to switch those skis around and see how it works.

Also, I now have a 1200x (studded 129") in the fleet with snow trackers. So I will do some swapping around with skis and runs along the same trail.

I can't get out here for a couple days, but will post some comparisons when I can.
 

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Update:

After a little comparison, I found that shimming the outer carbide down was a very big improvement over no outer rod or an outer rod mounted without shims (way up high).

For me it very noticeably helped cancel out the rut steer and steady out the dartyness. To a slight degree it seemed to reduce steering effort (maybe it was just that I was fighting it less just to go straight :)

But it is only a partial improvement when compared to the snow trackers. IMO Snow trackers flat out exceled in all respects (staight, steady, reduced steering effort). They also will hold up better over the miles since they "auto sharpen" and the cuting edge never "rounds out".

To summ it up, I would put it this way: if you have center carbides that are coming up on replacement, but have an application that does not require $$$ snow trackers, try moving the worn carbide to the outside. Shim it down so that it contacts the ground with (or slightly above) your new center carbide. Make sure the front of the carbide still "tucks in" the ski slot so that it wont catch on anything.

It will protect the outside of the ski, and you may find that your sled will track noticeably straighter than if it is mounted up high.
 

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89MX.. L&M Fleet has 1/2 inch hollow square bars for about $10. Do you think that would fit up into the ski and set the wear bar at the correct height? Should be easy enough to cut and give the bar good support. cdru
 

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89MX.. L&M Fleet has 1/2 inch hollow square bars for about $10. Do you think that would fit up into the ski and set the wear bar at the correct height? Should be easy enough to cut and give the bar good support. cdru
I like your idea of better support in the middle of the rod, but I think you will find that you will have to "customize" the measurement a bit.

I think the best way to do this is to get a bunch of washers that fit your rod bolts, then pull the ski and start shimming. I needed a different number of washers on each bolt to get the runner to be just right (level and at the same contact height) compared to the center rod.

As far as center of the rod support, I plan to wedge in how many washers will fit, then zap them to the rod with the wire feed welder.

Good news is that I put 600 hard and rocky miles on with no center support and had no bending of the rod so far.

Just went outside here and measured it up. Looks like i ended up shimming down a little over 1"4 inch on average.

Here's some really bad (mud caked) pics of my work:
 

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Thanks for the pics. After reading your original post, I shimmed my outer rod down about 3/8's of and inch with a piece of wood as a temporary shim. I ran it between the ski and the rod, between the bolts for more support. That put my outer just a tad higher than the center rod. Didn't get much of a chance to use it this season, but maybe learn a little more next season. I figured if it works well, I will do a more permanent fix. cdru
 

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I like your idea of better support in the middle of the rod, but I think you will find that you will have to "customize" the measurement a bit.

I think the best way to do this is to get a bunch of washers that fit your rod bolts, then pull the ski and start shimming. I needed a different number of washers on each bolt to get the runner to be just right (level and at the same contact height) compared to the center rod.

As far as center of the rod support, I plan to wedge in how many washers will fit, then zap them to the rod with the wire feed welder.

Good news is that I put 600 hard and rocky miles on with no center support and had no bending of the rod so far.

Just went outside here and measured it up. Looks like i ended up shimming down a little over 1"4 inch on average.

Here's some really bad (mud caked) pics of my work:
Did you try this with your 16 1200 X? Curiousto know because that's what I have and I find the front end rather heavy and I'm a little guy myself. ..
 

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instead of that cobbled mess just buy a used set of skidoo Precision skis

those older duel runner skis did not dart much in the snow and were the stock ski before the current pilot skis

they are very cheap now, but on lake ice would get twitchy at high speed

IMO if darting is bugging you then go for the snow trackers
 

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Did you try this with your 16 1200 X? Curiousto know because that's what I have and I find the front end rather heavy and I'm a little guy myself. ..
No, I didn't try it on the 1200. I am sure you would notice an improvement, but IMO, the performance and speed of that sled calls for the agressive snow trackers. For my 600 it was a great $0.50 mod that provided a very noticeable improvement... all that that 600 needed.

And skidoochris, thanks for the cobbled mess comment. Thanks man, appreciate that.

I did pretty it all up later by welding the washers and then grinding the excess off later.

The pics were from the testing phase.
 
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