Ski-Doo Snowmobiles Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
I was planning on restoring a 340 silver bullet and was looking for advice and such.
It is in overall good shape, only surface rust and a few small holes on one side, needs new seat, new engine, repair the hood and dash repacement

First of all I will need a new 340 fan (it has a 247 transpanted in), for the replacement engine is it better to find one from 72/73 to put in or does it matter?

does anyone have any tips for repairing a fiberglass hood, or have the paint code for the silver, or where to get a seat or dash?

CHASSIS # 348200787
JUNE 1972
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
760 Posts
ford silver Grey is claimed to be the best match for hood and chassis http://www.teshio.com/oldski-doosleds/paint.htm your best shot will be to find a engine from a Olympic from years 71-74 ( not exactly sure on years) anything newer then 73 wont fit as the tnt and oly chassis has changed. seat and dash would be a ebay job.

best of luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
great,
just trying to get a headstart on info and parts, it runs with the single in it, so im gonna play around with it alittle in the snow, then fix her up next summer. so if anyone lives in northern wisconsin, there will be a type 247 rotax up for sale next year,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,315 Posts
If this is a show sled then look for a period motor, but if this is going to be a runner why not put a 377 with CDI into it?

moxy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd like it to be alittle of both, have the nice stock look, but even if its perfect, its going to be trail driven alot
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what years came with the cdi and how hard would it be to make a 1980 377 cdi?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
don't have the money for building it yet, finishing up tech school this year so im just trying to get all the info sorted out first.

i have a question though, the chassis code is 3482 on the sled, but on all the websites for referencing it the 1973 silver bullet 340 comes up as 3412 with no 3482 at all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
don't have the money for building it yet, finishing up tech school this year so im just trying to get all the info sorted out first.

i have a question though, the chassis code is 3482 on the sled, but on all the websites for referencing it the 1973 silver bullet 340 comes up as 3412 with no 3482 at all
Does it have slides or bogies? A 340 with slides would be 3412, but a bogey 340 would be 3402. I have seen dinged up tags that might make an 0 look like an 8 or vice versa.

I've transplanted several 1974 and or 1975 Type343s into my "runner" Silver Bullet over the years. They're still threaded shaft cranks so you can run either the original '73 clutch or use the square-shaft clutch from the newer sled. I forget what year they switched to a tapered crankshaft.

The biggest problem with swapping something else into the 1973 is that darned separate brake lamp winding on the lighting coil and the "backwards" brake light switch. I've usually swapped the '73 electrical plate into the newer motors when swapping.
Since you don't have the original '73 motor anymore, you might have to do some rewiring on the brake light circuit to get the sled to match the engine harness. but if you decide to go with a CDI 377 you'll be doing that anyway.

Personally, I'd stick with the 343 myself...but they're a high compression engine so you'll have to stick with good gas.
I don't think there was a hi-perf 377 so they'll run on pretty much whatever you put in the tank. Nothing wrong with that if you're just looking for a trail sled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
it has the bogies, and i swear every time i look it is clearly an 8, but the guy i bought it from painted over the tag and i had to sand it to read it. I will check again this weekend though to be sure.

As for the engine, nothing is set in stone yet, personally i would want the original 343 or any 343 to make it "correct", but might have to settle due to lack of funds and availability in the area. and it will probably be mostly for playing in the snow, with some trail riding depending on how i fell lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,405 Posts
I have the Oly 340 for that year sitting on a shelf in Marquette and would get rid of it pretty cheap along with the pipe .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
that sounds good, but im going to college right now and money is kinda tight, so i was just gonna stick with the 247 it has in it till next year. but if anything changes and if im gonna be in the area, ill let you know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
I've transplanted several 1974 and or 1975 Type343s into my "runner" Silver Bullet over the years. They're still threaded shaft cranks so you can run either the original '73 clutch or use the square-shaft clutch from the newer sled. I forget what year they switched to a tapered crankshaft.

The biggest problem with swapping something else into the 1973 is that darned separate brake lamp winding on the lighting coil and the "backwards" brake light switch. I've usually swapped the '73 electrical plate into the newer motors when swapping.
Since you don't have the original '73 motor anymore, you might have to do some rewiring on the brake light circuit to get the sled to match the engine harness. but if you decide to go with a CDI 377 you'll be doing that anyway.

[/quote]
Very timely information. I have a 77 Oly 340 with Mikuni and RSS clutch I was going to drop into my restored bullet this fall. But now a few questions: To confirm, I will not have brake lights with this set up? I have no intention of opening up the motor and swapping parts. But if I can make sense of the wiring, it sounds like it will be possible to get the brake lights to work? Or, would it make more sense to patch in that portion of the brake light circuitry from a 77 Oly/Nuvik donor? Lastly, is it only the brake light that will not work, will I still have head and tail light? Any and all experience that can be shared would be appreciated.Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
the seats on those are very simple to make if you know anyone that sow's there are just a couple short seams in the front just have to make sure you use "artic vinyl" and lay it so it stretches the way you want, Vinyl really only streches one way you want it to streach over the seat not the lenght.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
Very timely information. I have a 77 Oly 340 with Mikuni and RSS clutch I was going to drop into my restored bullet this fall. But now a few questions: To confirm, I will not have brake lights with this set up? I have no intention of opening up the motor and swapping parts. But if I can make sense of the wiring, it sounds like it will be possible to get the brake lights to work? Or, would it make more sense to patch in that portion of the brake light circuitry from a 77 Oly/Nuvik donor? Lastly, is it only the brake light that will not work, will I still have head and tail light? Any and all experience that can be shared would be appreciated.Thanks
Just the brake light won't work if you swap a non-73 engine (and wiring) into a '73. The headlight and taillight will still work fine.
If you can find a normally-open brake light switch that you can engineer onto the '73 caliper, then you can fiddle the wiring around to get the brake light functional as well. I just haven't gotten that far on my sled yet.
I'm going to try to mount a newer style caliper onto my Bullet...the factory end-pull caliper is pretty weak compared to the newer style side-pull caliper. this will give me better brakes and the normally-open switch that I need.

The way that the stock '73 brake light setup works is...
The headlight and tail light run on the normal lighting coil on the magneto plate...no problems with that compared to any other older Doo sled. BUT, the brake light uses a separate smaller coil for just that circuit. The brake light switch is normally-closed, basically it shorts out the brake light coil so no juice is generated. When you put the brakes on, the switch will open and then that little brake light coil will generate voltage for the brake lamp. Let off the brake, the switch closes and shorts the coil so no more juice. Don't worry about shorting the coil...it sounds like things would burn up but it's just fine and no damage is being done.

I know there's a website with old Doo wiring diagrams on it...I can't find it this morning though. If someone here has a link can you post it up please?

The Clymer service manuals and the factory service manuals have wiring diagrams that you can use to trace out and adapt the wiring from engine harness to chassis harness. If you compare the 73 to another year you'll see the separate brake light coil setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
used to be right here old ski doo sleds but the wiring diagram link on it doesn't seem to be working
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
I believe this site should help everyone manuals
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Thanks Galt, just what I needed. I did not see a 73 wiring diagram there, but the 74 diagram is essentially the way described in the post above with the brake light normally grounded out. And the 77 wiring diagram is there too. So no more excuses, will ahve to try this swap. Thanks.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top