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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I looked around and didn't find a procedure, so I thought I would put one up since I figured it out. It's very easy to do and can be completed without removing the clutch from the crankshaft.

Here's how I did it on my 2020 900t XRS. I am not a clutch expert. I only know what I have read here on Dootalk.com and wanted to give back a little from all the stuff I have learned on here over the years.

This is the first time I have ever greased these and is in response to the thread from last spring. My sled has 2447 miles on it and I mostly ride lower Michigan, so it's lot's of corner to corner acceleration and braking. There may be better ways to complete this task, but this seemed to work well. I am open to any and all suggestions for doing this next time. I plan to do this once a year as a preventative maintenance procedure.

1. Crack cold beer and get out your Dootalk.com PW'ing can cooler!



2. Remove the side cover, belt cover and belt. Blow all the dust out with compressed air. I used a scotch bright pad to clean the clutch faces. I used Brake cleaner and paper towels to wipe the faces clean.

3. Test all 3 rollers by spinning them with your fingers to see how they feel. Mine all rolled freely and looked good, with minimal wear.




4. Remove the button head screw for the roller. It takes a T25 Torx head.

Automotive tire Tire Alloy wheel Motor vehicle Fluid


5. Thread in a M5 x 0.8 x 35mm bolt to use to push the shaft out with light taps from hammer while supporting the clutch.

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6. As the shaft pulls out be sure to catch the red urethane bushings on each side of the roller. I also put a piece of blue tape under the roller in case the needles fall out to keep them from falling inside the clutch. +

Gas Auto part Electric blue Metal Pipe


7. After the roller is out, inspect the roller and needles for wear. Mine looked fine, but the needles are dry.
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8. Clean out the old belt dust and debris with brake cleaner. Be careful not to loose any needles if the cage is broken, although I would think you would want to replace the roller if the cage was broken.

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9. Dry out all the needles and grease using whatever method you want.

10. Grease the roller with proper grease. I ordered the C&T roller grease tool back in the spring and that tool worked great.

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11. My shaft had a little bit of wear on one side of the shaft, I can't really feel it, but can see it it forming. I installed that side opposite of the ramp to put wear on the other side which did not get any wear. There is only force on one side of the shaft.

12. I cleaned the red urethane bushings with brake cleaner. There was no noticeable wear on mine.
Magenta Metal Font Fashion accessory Auto part


13. To reinstall, I just used the M5 puller that I made to line up the parts and pull the shaft back thru. Note that the shaft only goes in from one side as the button head screw pulls the shaft into a shoulder machined into the clutch.
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here is a better pic of the puller I use. I am not sure where I got the bearing from, but it's nice to eliminate the torque and allows me to focus on pulling the shaft in without fear of twisting the shaft.
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14. Put a drop of Blue locktite on the button head screw before install. I am sure there is a torque value, but my torque wrench likely won't go that low, so I just did it goodandtight, you know the old German torque value.

15. All done

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It takes you longer to read this than to do your first P Drive roller grease renewal!

Winters coming boys, gotta be ready!
 

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thanks
 
  • Haha
Reactions: grover

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Not to grease the rollers. LOL
lol, I'm guessing what he meant was he didn't happen to use the compression tool to remove the rollers to grease them...??

Anyway, good write up!

I do basically the same as you described. On re-assembly, I tap the pin in until I feel it seat in the pocket, then I loctite and retorque...



Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 

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lol, I'm guessing what he meant was he didn't happen to use the compression tool to remove the rollers to grease them...??

Anyway, good write up!

I do basically the same as you described. On re-assembly, I tap the pin in until I feel it seat in the pocket, then I loctite and retorque...



Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
After reading again your right. LOL! Sorry Eric M
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yeah I didn't use the compression tool. I only have the grease tool from Chris. It worked great and I would say that I will get 5-10 uses before it will need more grease. Maybe more, not sure how these will look next time. I would think that doing it once a year, that grease will last the life of my machine.
 
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