just put a oil line to connect the brass

40 to one should be fine.I have run anywhere from 50 thru 32 to1
nope,pipes won't give you compression but shaving your head will(cheap,awsome mod)
I always use the thinest gasket I can

 

25:1 for your first tank in break in than run you second like 40:1 than run it about 45:1 mix in your normal operation why delete the oil pump? they practically never fail i have never had one fail or even heard of one failing

 

many good reasons to ditch the pump set up.I'd say go 32 to 1 for break in and then you can lean it out if you want

 

which line do i use as the water pump feed line ?

the lower one from the tank that originally went to the oil pump ?

or the top line that was hooked up there before the delete ?

and what do i do with the extra line after?

thanks for your replies!

 

i used the line from the bottle to the brass plug under the reeds/above the pump..1)line from res. to block.2)line to little brass pieces in pic above3) block off plate.that should be it.

what extra line are you talking about?

 

Hi guys, I have a 2000 summit zx 700 HM that I am doing a rebuild on. The mag side bearing seized and I purchased a low mile 2001 replacement crankshaft. I would like to delete the oil to the mag side bearing and just use isoflex for the lube. Can I still keep the oil pump to do all of its normal functions except lube the bearings. This is my first rebuild and I am just trying to make sure that I understand things correctly. A step by step would be awesome if someone out there understands my question. Thanks

 

So are you planning on mixing?
What you can do is open up your case oil ports before putting the motor back together, maybe another 1/32 over stock bore.
The oil brass fittings dont lube the bearings, oil is pushed into the crank section the fuel oil mix and is pulled up, vacuum draws fuel/oil into the bearings.
I have seem many crank bearings seize just from wear, sad part is you already bought a crank when its super cheap to repair and change the bearings if you had a puller and press. But IMO isoflex wont save your bearings if thats all you plan to run, you do need some lube in there to cool it down.

 

X2 on the 32:1 break in, 25:1 is a little thick IMO.

Watchthis907- Has you going in the right direction, if you want later on get the 440 waterpump oil tank its like a 1/8 of the size. You will never need to really worry about the oil as the waterpump dont use much as it is.
Make sure the line is high enough to drip down.

 

Here is what my understanding based on stuff ive read from other forums. On the 2000's the mag side bearings are lubed with gas/oil and the clutch side is lubed with isoflex. I am not wanting to mix my fuel and oil but rather just use things the way they were designed. My understanding is the the 2001's were lubed on both sides with isoflex. So I was just wanting to update the case to do this. Am I making sense? Is there a better way to put everything back together?

 

Yes there lubed with isoflex and they also pulling in gas/oil into it. The 440/500/600/700/800 cases are all basically lubed the same way and pretty much the same with different stroke cranks.
Like i said if you do like the idea how its done you can always open the oil ports if you have them, there normally inside the case where the rods and normally just over/between the bearings to feed them.
I have only built a half a dozen doo motors and never have used isoflex as my Cats and Polaris race motors never had it, but i did open the oil ports more to have more oil/gas dump in.

But looking at case pics the only cases i can find is the 600 that the oil ports feed all the bearings, the 700 rely on the isoflex on the PTO bearing. Personally if I had the cases i would be drilling into that but thats me.

I found one over head pic, you can see the hole only feed the Mag bearings. This pic is from 2002 700 cases.

 

So in guessing this is more complicated than disconnecting 2 hoses and than just mixing your gas ????

 

Do you plan to mix fuel?
If so then its not complicated at all, what buddy above was trying to do in a way dont really work. But you do have to run a line to feed the waterpump shaft.
Pic above is a perfect example of a delete, any true race sled comes like that.
I block off all my pumps also on all my motors, Doo is the only ones that dont have oil ports to feed the pump reason you need the drip line. I do this to some of my Cat motors as my water pumps in those motors have eaten into the cases due to heat and mean RPMs i spin.

 

could be some help

 

Sooooo confused, think ill just stick to oil injection

 

My internet sucks where i am at so finding a pic of a RV motor oil blocking!! Sorry just realized your running a RV motor so blocking things off is a little different but but not much, and sadly i have zero pics of my motors.

 

Hi IQR670/ Mitch, I'm still waiting on those cylinders? Can you either refund my money or post them out to me please!

 

I run 40:1 i know people that run 100:1

 

i know people that run 100:1

i know people who jump out of planes too dont mean there smart lol

 

i know people who jump out of planes too dont mean there smart lol

100an1 yo me is pushing it.