[davecrash]

2009 MXZ TNT 1200
This is my first maintenance on this sled, I bought it used and was told all maintenance had been done by the dealer. Something every used sled seller says. Lol.
it’s also a learning time for me as I haven’t done this before (on a sled) but I am a service tech for machinery.
I have done a lot of reading on here but will still have a few questions as I go. Shocks have been pulled and will be sent in for service. Skid is out and looks like most of the boogies will have to be replaced. Either bad bearings, worn wheels or worn mountings for the bearings in the wheels.
The reverse coupling gear has been ordered, it’s getting hard to shift while running. First question, the runners stop short of the end of the skid. Should I cut the new ones to the end or keep it the same?
I have already ordered some yellow boogies and yellow slides.

 

[XrsRene]

Half the fun is wrenching

 

[XrsRene]

 

[davecrash]

I'm going to build one of those stands you have, I have all the metal and parts just need to do it now. Lol

 

[XrsRene]

I use my old car bumper jack stand 100 times more. Paid 15 bucks for it and welded a base

 

[mcdoo_xrs]

I'd personally make the runners a bit longer and make sure to cut the angle at the end as they have now. Not sure if there is a max distance recommended to keep between the runner and the rail or not.

 

[davecrash]

It would make sense to go to at least the end of the rail so the track doesn't catch in reverse

 

[440x]

You can go to the end of the rail, and will have a strange noise you haven't heard before. It will go away eventually....

Or you can cut them like the factory and have no issues.

 

[davecrash]

Got some parts in today. Made a run to CT for some nuts and bolts. Had to drill one of the slide retaining bolts out and a couple of the boogie mounts were missing some hardware. Shocks are at the shop being done. The Center shock upper mount was tight and took a lot of effort to move until I loosened the mounting bolt. The muffler had lost most of the retaining springs and shifted out of position causing the damage you see in the picture. . Only the springs holding the muffler to the header were on. Working 7 to 7 for the next 4 days so won’t get much done.

 

[onefast1]

I’ll throw my 2 cents in, but you can take or leave it. Slides should be 10mm from the end. (Ish). Yours looked like a inch.
stands are nice for a lot of things but pulling the skid isn’t one of them. I tip them on the side to pull skid. I cut a tube and put it in the steering shaft with a hitch pin to keep it from. tip it on the side and it’s like a kickstand. Then it’s nice to use a stand.

 

[davecrash]

I currently have jack stands on the front and a 4x4 holding up the year. I needed all 4 shocks off and that just seemed like the easiest way. Work has been keeping me busy the last few days and I had to squeeze in a brake caliper change on the wife's car so the sled has been sitting idle for a few days.
I will cut the runner closer to the end on the new one.

 

[davecrash]

Any particular reason why the 2 different boogies between the inside top and outside bottom we’re used?
They are the same OD and bearing.
One appears to be solid as the only difference I can see.

 

[RainmanX]

Solid is probably the only difference.

 

[David H]

Solid is probably the only difference.

Yup. Cosmetics. You don't see the upper wheels.

 

[CanGadeX]

I have installed the 4th rear idler kit (adds a 2nd wheel on the left at the rear). I figured if you lose that lone left rear wheel, the day is over. Any thoughts on replacing any other bushings with greasable Mainway Solution kits?

 

[RainmanX]

I have installed the 4th rear idler kit (adds a 2nd wheel on the left at the rear). I figured if you lose that lone left rear wheel, the day is over. Any thoughts on replacing any other bushings with greasable Mainway Solution kits?

They are quite expensive in comparison to the doo ones. The factory ones last a pretty good long time.

 

[CanGadeX]

They are quite expensive in comparison to the doo ones. The factory ones last a pretty good long time.

Not sure if these are oem but my sled had 15000kms when replaced. A bit of wear as shown below.

 

[smurfy71]

I can't say enough about Val's (Mainway Solutions) products and the support he gives along with it. I've replaced the rear suspension A arm bushings with his and all the front suspension bushings. Grease'em and forget'em Here are the stock rear bushings I pulled out of mine.

 

[davecrash]

my offset rear boogie is showing some wear but the 2 outside are fine. Kind of surprised they aren't metal but seem to be fine after 22k. I will be replacing the bearings in both outers and the offset boogie completely. Picking up the shocks tonight and my hygear torsion spacers are being delivered today.
I am also repacking all the new bearings with more grease.

 

[DOOLIFE800]

If you're tight like me you can drill and tap the arms and add grease zerks. I then take a Dremel and cut a groove around the inside of the bushing to help spread the grease when it's pumped in. Been doing this for at least 10 years to all my sleds.