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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i'm assuming this was caused by the crack in the can and the hot exhaust dumping onto the electrical... was literally 3 minutes out of the driveway, sniff sniff, shut er down and hook up the tow rope.. Any suggestions on how to cheaply fix the crack in the can, don't really have a choice but to replace all those wires..

Thanks
 

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So i'm assuming this was caused by the crack in the can and the hot exhaust dumping onto the electrical... was literally 3 minutes out of the driveway, sniff sniff, shut er down and hook up the tow rope.. Any suggestions on how to cheaply fix the crack in the can, don't really have a choice but to replace all those wires..

Thanks
Should be able to get that welded pretty cheap.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I pulled off the belt to tow it back to the trailer and noticed while I was getting towed back i noticed there was almost no pressure in my brake lever.. I open up the hood when I got back and the brake line wasn't melted or anything and when i pulled the brake it looked like the pads were closing on the rotor fine.. going to have look more when i get home tonight.
 

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The most common problem with the brakes dragging/seizing is the tiny pinhole in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir getting plugged which does not allow the pressure to bleed off of the caliper. Might be a good idea to replace your old brake fluid and ensure the small and large passages in the master cylinder are clean and open.
 

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The most common problem with the brakes dragging/seizing is the tiny pinhole in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir getting plugged which does not allow the pressure to bleed off of the caliper. Might be a good idea to replace your old brake fluid and ensure the small and large passages in the master cylinder are clean and open.
If this pinhole was clogged up and not allowing pressure to bleed off would that not increase the pressure in the brake lever? I haven't seen it since I dragged in on the trailer last night but there was no pressure there, I could pull the brake right into the bar.
 

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If this pinhole was clogged up and not allowing pressure to bleed off would that not increase the pressure in the brake lever? I haven't seen it since I dragged in on the trailer last night but there was no pressure there, I could pull the brake right into the bar.
True. When mine was plugged it caused the brake lever (and calipers) to lock solid. That definitely looks like over heated breaks caused that melting though. Fluid must have leaked out of the caliper though somehow. Weird how they still work with no pressure though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
True. When mine was plugged it caused the brake lever (and calipers) to lock solid. That definitely looks like over heated breaks caused that melting though. Fluid must have leaked out of the caliper though somehow. Weird how they still work with no pressure though.
Yea that makes more sense.. Looking at the pictures though it does make sense that the rotor got a little hot given the position of the melting.. I'm going to pull it off the trailer into the garage tonight and investigate a little more. Thanks for the input guys.
 

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I think gpt is right, it's more likely the brake is sticking on than the crack in the muffler causing your issue. The brake may have been hard, but if it got hot enough to boil the brake fluid, that creates air in the system and a spongy lever.
 

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Make sure the little return hole is clean (where the pick is pointing ). You will see the fluid squirting out of this hole when you pump the brake lever, if it is clean.
c8c3a5e0d58711f40647b0bdaf37c081.jpg


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uploadfromtaptalk1453771528651.jpg The brakes seem to be fine.. i dont see anything that would suggest the rotor seizing or overheatting (obviously other than the melting) pressure is there and the brake is working normally... the can has bigger splits in it than i thought, if the exhaust was pumping out a few inches from all these wires and the rotor would it not be hot enough to do this damage close to WOT through a corn field?

Also, what is this black box? Lol, was mounted on the side of the oil tank and seems to have most of the electrical connecting to it somehow...

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Based on what you are seeing it would seem the exhaust is your problem. Weld it or replace it but you have to do something. The black box is your CDI which controls your ignition system. Heat could have fried it but I would run it if it works properly.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yea I'm going to get it welded up by my buddy this week. I don't see any open wire or anything in that cluster just the outer sleeve is melted. So I'll wait to get the can back and see how it goes when i throw it back on. If it doesn't work then I guess I'm looking for a new CDI.

I'm going to replace the brake fluid and put some fresh pads on just to be sure this isn't a brake problem while i'm waiting for the can to get welded up.

The melted connector (pinkish brown colour) looks to me like it connects the 2 leads from the temp sensor, to 3 leads going to the temp gauge? I could be wrong on this... I'm pretty new to messing around with these motors lol. If this is correct could I just cut the plug out and hardwire these with some heat shrink?

Thanks for any help guys, I appreciate it.
 

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I don't know if this will help any, but my brakes were dragging on my 1998 Formula 500. I ended up popping the "pucks" out of the caliper and cleaning them up with emery cloth. Sprayed brake cleaner inside the caliper to clean out any varnish. Wiped everything back down with brake fluid and put back together and bled line. Brakes no longer drag.

Didn't realize the return hole could of been plugged in the reservoir. It probably was, but became unplugged with me bleeding the line back out.

Anyway, works like a charm now. Good luck with your sled.
 

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I don't know if this will help any, but my brakes were dragging on my 1998 Formula 500. I ended up popping the "pucks" out of the caliper and cleaning them up with emery cloth. Sprayed brake cleaner inside the caliper to clean out any varnish. Wiped everything back down with brake fluid and put back together and bled line. Brakes no longer drag.

Didn't realize the return hole could of been plugged in the reservoir. It probably was, but became unplugged with me bleeding the line back out.

Anyway, works like a charm now. Good luck with your sled.
If you let me know the year and model of the sled, I can probably get you the wiring diagram if you need it.

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Thanks vmax, im going to go through the brakes and service them anyways cause i dont believe theyve been serviced in a while. Just to clarify, the return hole is located under the cap of the reservoir on the brake handle assembly? I havent opened it up yet im going to do that tomorrow.

The lines from the melted connector leads up to this plug mounted in the head and i followed it down into a sleeve that runs up into the dash. Temp sensor? Thanks for the offer wildthang, but i already got a diagram, i just want to be sure. uploadfromtaptalk1453776777686.jpg

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Yup under the reservoir cap. Make sure the fluid is squirting up out of the return hole when you pump the brakes.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, that is your temp sensor. You can eliminate the melted plug if you choose.

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Or just wrap it up if it still works lol, gunna tackle the brakes tonight while the exhaust is being welded. Thanks for your help!
 
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