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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2004 60 sdi that I have been dealing with a intermitten no spark and am looking for some insight. So far I have tested the kill switch, dess post, trigger, stator, coil, to find all in spec in a resistance test. Yesterday I thought I had found the issue I didnt have 12v feeding pin 2 on the coil I had found a dirty connection at the fuse block I had 12v now at the coil and checked now I had spark. So I reinstall the fuse block and put the pipe back in the sled go to try to fire it and nothing. So I am thinking it has to be a wire broken or breaking in the fuse block so I remove it and inspect the wires again and find nothing. So I recheck for 12v at the coil and I have 12v but no spark. So I then do the pin out testing for continuity between the coil connector and ecm and everything checks fine. I then remove the coil to retest the primary windings which check good again. So I am at a loss at this point and unfortunatey dont have another 600 sdi that I can swap parts off of.
 

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Did clean all the grounds? Also at this point I would start unwrapping the wire loom starting at the fuse block. Unwrap about 9" I believe and check a wire splice that some people have found to be corroded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have not unwrapped the splices I have power but will unwrap those and check them. Where is the other splice further up the harness?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So your talking about the splices with the grey coverings and what am I looking for when I unwrap them?
 

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Corrosion and broken splices
 

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So your talking about the splices with the grey coverings and what am I looking for when I unwrap them?
Yes that is what he meant, but I have never seen such problems other than on this forum. So far zero pictures of corroded splices, but hundreds of posts. Go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Took all the splices apart all of them were fine no heavy corrosion no broken wires. The only other thing I havent checked is the pinout to the ecu for the trigger to make sure there isnt an issue in that wiring.
 

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Took all the splices apart all of them were fine no heavy corrosion no broken wires. The only other thing I havent checked is the pinout to the ecu for the trigger to make sure there isnt an issue in that wiring.
Did you find the one up the wiring harness?
 

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The wires for the trigger coils would be a good bet. See post #2 for the location of the splice that Burtamiss is referring to. If you see a problem with that splice do me a favour and take a good clear picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I will unwrap the loom and check that splice and will look through the manual for the pickup ecu pins and check that I will let you know what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry for not getting back to this topic sooner I was in quebec for a week for my last sled trip of the season. But anyways I unwrapped the harness and found the other splice and checked that and it was fine. I then turned my attention to the resistance test for the trigger wires at the ecm. I checked at pins 5 and 19 on connector A and had no resistance. So after that i disconnected the trigger connector and jumped pin 5 and 19 on the ecu out and checked for resistance at the plug still nothing. So from that I would say I have a break in the wiring between the trigger plug and the ecu connector. Has anyone delt with this before? I did recheck and verify proper resistance for the trigger at the female side of the plug.
 

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I think you mean testing for continuity as you want the least amount of resistance in the wires. The chances of both wires having trouble is small, but possible. Pin 5 goes to the YL/WH wire, and pin 19 goes to the BU/YL.

The Deutsch connection can be taken apart easily enough, so that may help get a good connection. The male plug should have a green wedge with a slot that you can insert with a 90 degree pick and simply pull out. Then a small screwdriver is used to unlock the each terminal. They are wonderful plugs to work with after you have done it once. The female connector is a litter trickier to remove since the top plate is part of the wedge. It requires the right size flat blade screwdriver and correct technique to snap it out without damage. There are good videos of this on Youtube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I took a look at it and found that the blue with yellow tracer had lost continuity so I started wighiling the wire by the cps plug and would get it back to started to cut back the sheathing and found the wire had broken. I am going to replace both wires tomorrow and see where I am at then.
 

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That's fantastic!!!
 
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