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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I swapped a 1994 670 into my 1996 formula 3. I had it runing for about 30 seconds a weekago so obviously had a spark. I put a brand new cdi and igntion coil on the sled cause i never had the oem to begin with. The resistance on the the stator was .6 ohms on the yellow wires and 11.5 ohms on the red and red black wires. All wires were O.L when checking for ground. The kill swich is O.L in up position (on) and 1 ohm in the down (off) position. The ignition coil has 2 wires going into but was curious if it needs to be grounded to the frame from the bolt hole mounts? The trigger coil had 220ohms. The tether switch was O.L with tether on and 3 ohms with the tether off. I think i didnt put the trigger coil on right. But i heard the specs go up to 2mm in distance from flywheel magnet. Anyway any sense of direction would be great. Not sure how long the shop will be if i drop it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I swapped a 1994 670 into my 1996 formula 3. I had it runing for about 30 seconds a weekago so obviously had a spark. I put a brand new cdi and igntion coil on the sled cause i never had the oem to begin with. The resistance on the the stator was .6 ohms on the yellow wires and 11.5 ohms on the red and red black wires. All wires were O.L when checking for ground. The kill swich is O.L in up position (on) and 1 ohm in the down (off) position. The ignition coil has 2 wires going into but was curious if it needs to be grounded to the frame from the bolt hole mounts? The trigger coil had 220ohms. The tether switch was O.L with tether on and 3 ohms with the tether off. I think i didnt put the trigger coil on right. But i heard the specs go up to 2mm in distance from flywheel magnet. Anyway any sense of direction would be great. Not sure how long the shop will be if i drop it off.
Well i hope this helps somebody one day. I ended up changing the stator and putting a brand new stator in the sled to still find i had no spark. I tried 3 stators 2 trigger coils 2 cdis. The only thing i hadnt tried a second of was the ignition coil which was brand new and had brand new caps. It was within specs per resistance. Anyhow an oem used one will always be better than aftermarket chinese junk from royal distributing. Wolftech is garbage. Thanks for coming to my ted talk
 

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Air gap on trigger coil must be within spec. For example, mine is .30 standoff from the magneto. Also, trigger coil position affects ignition timing, if you have removed the trigger coil you must time the engine. For example, my 670 ho is set up at 3.2 mm before top dead center. So using a dial indicator you find top dead center dial the Magneto back 3.2 mm and that is where you set and tighten the trigger coil.
 
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