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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just bought a 96 600 triple and posted a while back about my plugs fouling a lot but did not mention that they were fouling from what i believe is too much oil two of the plugs are totally black now the person i bought it from took out the oil injection system and was running mixed gas 40 1. i have only taken it out a few times and for maybe an 1 hr each time on the third outing when i fired it up it ran like crap changed plugs and all was good.now i am running 87 octane gas and oil i am using is the castrol snowmobile oil,so could it be this combo that is causing my plugs to foul so much is there a better oil to use for my premix 91 oct. or mix ratio?
 

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I don't know if it is any better than Castrol but we run 16 oz. Amsoil Dominator with 5 gallons of C-12 fuel. 40:1. Plugs look good with no fouling. Of course we are running much higher compression than you but that shouldn't matter.

I'd be inclined to think you have a carb too rich issue.

Why did the previous owner remove the oil pump? Was he having a plug fouling problem?

Lynn
 

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You'll get lots of opinions on oils and plugs and other things but maybe you could try this...after answering this...what plugs are you running?

Now that you're sure you're running the correct plugs, drain the Castro 10/40 and fill with Amsoil Dom or Elim or Doo Mineral. Also drain the 87 octane mineral water and fill with 91/93 non-oxy.

Still fouling? You may look at jetting as mentioned above.
 

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I've run castrol sled oil in my 600 and 800 triples never had an issue. This is 2016 not 1972 2 stroke oil all has to meet a certain criteria. That said I don't believe in buying over priced oil that has a fancy label with hyped up advertising.
I would venture to bet that your carb setting are off. Trying doing some plug chops first with the idol circuit then mid range then finally wide open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
right now i am using the br9es plugs i have bought the eya but hesitant to put them in that if it is oil fouling it will do the same as for the carbs i am not well versed on three carbs i have only owned a couple 90 s tundras in which i have done carb cleaning and reset the idle etc. are the eya plugs designed in that the oil won t foul them as much?
 

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Post some pics of those fouled plugs. A post with pictures always gets more attention.

Feel free to use the eya plugs but I wouldn't use another new set until I actually took some action.

As mentioned, you'll get lots of opinions on oil...your call. 40/1 is a little rich. Manual calls for 50/1. Someone will argue that as well.

Get the old gas/water mix out of the tank and replace with non-oxy and treat with Seafoam. (Insert more opinions here.)

3 carbs are no different than 2. If you don't know the status of the carbs (new to you), pull them. Clean them. Make notes on what jets you have and needle clip position. Reinstall. Sync. Adjust air screws to spec. Set idle.

You need a manual so download it here... https://www.dropbox.com/sh/48a8q5wc55gh6gz/S0uwKI8LNP

You need a spec book so pm your email and I'll send it to you. Good luck.
 

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I wouldn't be too hasty to change jets just yet. Get the carbs off, check the float levels and look for scoring on the inlet needle valve and seat or dirt present holding the needle open slightly. If in doubt at all put new needle valves and seats in. These do wear out over time. Be sure to replace the gaskets between the seat and carb body.
Check the main and pilot jet sizes. Are they correct? Who knows what is in there now? Start with stock parts then tweak from there if necessary. Under most normal conditions the stock jet sizes will work for you unless exhaust changes have been made or the engine has been modified in some way.
I would also drain and clean the tank and while at it replace the grommet holding the fuel line into the front of the tank. You will have to remove the line to access the fuel filter for cleaning and disturbing these grommets can lead to leaks. They are available from a Ski Doo dealer and well worth the money.
Unless the engine has been modified I would go with 50:1 fuel/oil mix. I would also be careful to not let the engine idle long either. When you stop shut it down or you will foul plugs. This is one reason why they started putting oil injection on sleds in the beginning.
Get everything clean and right before attempting changes then take baby steps from there.
I'd still like to know why the oil pump was removed in the first place? Any way you can find out?
Lynn
 

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Oh yeah, forgot to mention, each carb is unique so reinstall in the same location...assuming they are correct to begin with. The spec book I have lists all of this to include the different jetting for each carb.

That being said, my trip 6 plugs looked like crap at one point. Bad gas was the issue but if the sled is new to you, do it right and get to know it.
 

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From outward appearance all three carbs are the same. Actually they are, all being VM 36 carbs. The difference is the pilot and main jetting. (Calibration) Everything else is the same.

The pilot jets on the PTO and MAG sides are 50. The center carb pilot is 55

The main jets on the PTO and MAG sides are 330. The center carb main jet is 320.

The jet needles should be J8-6DEY2

The needle jets should be 286 PO

All 3 slide cutaways are 2.5

I took this information off a Ski-Doo parts website which should be the latest information available.

Again, I don't know what you have for exhaust or engine mods so it is on you to find out before making drastic changes. Maybe the previous owner didn't know either, had a problem and dumped the headache on you. Trust is a wonderful thing but it doesn't always work for you.

There are many things which can make the engine run rich or lean such as faulty reed valves, poor compression, leaking crankshaft seals, incorrect ignition timing, sticking RAVE valves, incorrect choke adjustment and restricted exhaust just to name a few.

Lynn
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
you guys are awsome great advice and gives me a starting point graynfast mentioned chokes sticking i had noticed that when i used the choke and flipped the lever up for starting once started place lever to the side for warmup and then put lever back to off pos i would have to push the choke back in towards engine by hand is that normal or should it go in byitself
 

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Chokes should all return on their own. And your carbs are all the same except for the differences. Good luck.
 

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From outward appearance all three carbs are the same. Actually they are, all being VM 36 carbs. The difference is the pilot and main jetting. (Calibration) Everything else is the same.

The pilot jets on the PTO and MAG sides are 50. The center carb pilot is 55

The main jets on the PTO and MAG sides are 330. The center carb main jet is 320.

The jet needles should be J8-6DEY2

The needle jets should be 286 PO

All 3 slide cutaways are 2.5

I took this information off a Ski-Doo parts website which should be the latest information available.

Again, I don't know what you have for exhaust or engine mods so it is on you to find out before making drastic changes. Maybe the previous owner didn't know either, had a problem and dumped the headache on you. Trust is a wonderful thing but it doesn't always work for you.

There are many things which can make the engine run rich or lean such as faulty reed valves, poor compression, leaking crankshaft seals, incorrect ignition timing, sticking RAVE valves, incorrect choke adjustment and restricted exhaust just to name a few.

Lynn
Not according to this http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=skidoo&a=203&b=25&c=0&d=-CARBURETORS-%28599%29

I ran into an issue with rebuilding my carbs. The original jets and needle clip setting matched that sights part listing and my racing manual but not the Shop manual. There is also a supplement were the carb settings have been changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well i thought i would take it for a rip today put new plugs in br9es gapped them as close to 018 and rode for about 30 min. takes off real quick had it pinned did 90 got home checked plugs the two outside ones were good but middle cylinder was oily and wet choke does not seem to be operating properly sticking in the full position unless i physically push it in.
 

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Should be able to just pull it, clean it up, reinstall and adjust. What did you do to get to this point of no fouling.
 

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Great. Get that center carb all cleaned up and watch your plugs for a lean burn. Pull them every tank and take a look. Good luck.
 

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With the choke off,you should be able to pull up on the lever 1/16th before you feel pull on the cables.Pull the plungers from the carbs and clean the brass up and clean inside the bore.You may have a bad cable also,no reason to foul plugs,I've seen people leave them in for 5 years.
 
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