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Are there any cheap tricks to improve low speed cooling, steering, high speed handling or make the sled otherwise more user friendly?
199Mods: I have a 2014 Skandic WT that had been rolled down a ski hill, twice. Brought it back to live and learned a lot.

If you are used to a MXZ, the Skandic is going to feel tippy.

On my sled, the WT suspension was so bent up almost everywhere, I changed all of the cross members to solid steel, including the rear axle and the outer rear axle tube. Pulled things straight, and added a Lot of weight to the suspension, but very low down weight. And, from what I have learned, this may be one of the reasons the sled is now so much fun to ride. Ok, it is not in the same league as my MXZ short track. But a fun ride. Super fun in the deep stuff. A goat off trail. Love it. (I also changed out all the pivot joints to greased bronze with the help of Val at Mainway Solutions.)

Last season, my sledding buddy had a 2022 Gen 4 Skandic WT 900 Ace. Side by side, my Skandic WT XU 600 Ace was a joy to ride on the trails - while his sled was a tippy pain. Especially at first.
He went through about a thousand+$ in widening kits, different kinds of skis, skins and carbides to improve the darting and the tippy feel. Trying to get the sled to a semblance of what he liked about his prior 120" MXZ. He found the 6.9 pilots with 6" Woody's Doolies in the center and 4" single carbide on the outside was the sweet spot. With a full 1/4" of shim under the back of the ski pad. But still a long shot behind the way my Skandic handled. While the Gen 4's may be more tippy in general, my gut tells me the main difference was all the added weight just above the snow line. I know all about the rules of suspension weight and ride quality. But my ride quality was better in all regards - with stock shocks.

The other thing that I think helped with the ride was the work on the upper two boggy wheels. The inner race of the bearings are held on the cross shaft with an Aluminum ring that is held to the cross shaft with a single set screw. On all the SU-5 suspensions I have taken apart, the bearing's inner race was wobbling on the shaft, and the bearings were gone or going. This contributed to darting, especially under load. To fix the situation, I welded up the shafts, ground and polished the shafts back to a near press fit to the bearing inner race. Installed a hard washer against the outside bearing inner race. Held the washer against the bearing with a compression spring. Held the spring in place with a split, stainless steel collar. Compressed the whole thing with a bar clamp before installing the suspension. This keeps the bearing seated against the shoulder on the shaft. Took some work but feel it was worth it. Did the same on the MXZ Sport SU-5 suspension with a noticeable improvement.

I installed the Grip n Rip metal wheel retention blocks on the rear axle. Just because..

From the sounds of things, your "new" sled is in fairly good shape while my Skandic was just above "junk" status. For me, there was no hesitation to modify and try different things. And can understand you may be reluctant to do some of the above. Sharing what I did for what it is worth.

Enjoy.

Jack
 
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