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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 600 etec Skandic this afternoon. Something like ~4000km on chassis.

Needs some tlc engine is fresh.
Bad/ needs:
Drive Axle bearing
Clutch work
Top panels left and right
Wrap around bumper clutch side

So I would have bought a new 20" expedition if funds allowed.

It will be my fiance's primary rig. I will use it for some tow jobs, walking my dog, riding two up. Might build a cabin.

Never owned a lts strut machine. Looks like Tundra x treme springs help? Front shocks?

What's available currently for shock upgrade. I don't mind the ride but I come from mxz world and know this a area for eventual improvement.

Top speed.
Lots of riding is 20-60km
Some 60-100+
Longer rides on the ice adverage 80-90km

Something in the clutch is very much off the sled will spin 9000rpm and blip the rev limiter.
I'm hoping the bearing it making it slow.

Has anyone ever clutched one of these. Is there a spring weight or ramp combo better than oem.

I would seriously consider a pb80 if the tra is trashed. I have others and Secondary too.

Are there any cheap tricks to improve low speed cooling, steering, high speed handling or make the sled otherwise more user friendly?

Thanks
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
199Mods: I have a 2014 Skandic WT that had been rolled down a ski hill, twice. Brought it back to live and learned a lot.

If you are used to a MXZ, the Skandic is going to feel tippy.

On my sled, the WT suspension was so bent up almost everywhere, I changed all of the cross members to solid steel, including the rear axle and the outer rear axle tube. Pulled things straight, and added a Lot of weight to the suspension, but very low down weight. And, from what I have learned, this may be one of the reasons the sled is now so much fun to ride. Ok, it is not in the same league as my MXZ short track. But a fun ride. Super fun in the deep stuff. A goat off trail. Love it. (I also changed out all the pivot joints to greased bronze with the help of Val at Mainway Solutions.)

Last season, my sledding buddy had a 2022 Gen 4 Skandic WT 900 Ace. Side by side, my Skandic WT XU 600 Ace was a joy to ride on the trails - while his sled was a tippy pain. Especially at first.
He went through about a thousand+$ in widening kits, different kinds of skis, skins and carbides to improve the darting and the tippy feel. Trying to get the sled to a semblance of what he liked about his prior 120" MXZ. He found the 6.9 pilots with 6" Woody's Doolies in the center and 4" single carbide on the outside was the sweet spot. With a full 1/4" of shim under the back of the ski pad. But still a long shot behind the way my Skandic handled. While the Gen 4's may be more tippy in general, my gut tells me the main difference was all the added weight just above the snow line. I know all about the rules of suspension weight and ride quality. But my ride quality was better in all regards - with stock shocks.

The other thing that I think helped with the ride was the work on the upper two boggy wheels. The inner race of the bearings are held on the cross shaft with an Aluminum ring that is held to the cross shaft with a single set screw. On all the SU-5 suspensions I have taken apart, the bearing's inner race was wobbling on the shaft, and the bearings were gone or going. This contributed to darting, especially under load. To fix the situation, I welded up the shafts, ground and polished the shafts back to a near press fit to the bearing inner race. Installed a hard washer against the outside bearing inner race. Held the washer against the bearing with a compression spring. Held the spring in place with a split, stainless steel collar. Compressed the whole thing with a bar clamp before installing the suspension. This keeps the bearing seated against the shoulder on the shaft. Took some work but feel it was worth it. Did the same on the MXZ Sport SU-5 suspension with a noticeable improvement.

I installed the Grip n Rip metal wheel retention blocks on the rear axle. Just because..

From the sounds of things, your "new" sled is in fairly good shape while my Skandic was just above "junk" status. For me, there was no hesitation to modify and try different things. And can understand you may be reluctant to do some of the above. Sharing what I did for what it is worth.

Enjoy.

Jack
Mines junk too. I just like it enough to save it. It's honestly for the gf.

Swt is not tippy at slow speeds the 24" is a wild ride.

I wrench on sleds for skidoo full time. I'm not afraid to go away from factory, modify a new machine or build a custom widget.

Where I live there are lots of swt so parts are available.

From what I read a rebuildable center shock from a Sc3/4/5 will work it needs it and i have one. For a rear I have to go to ROCK suspension eventually. While I'm there they make heavy cross shafts BONUS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tonight I discovered that the secondary was no good. Glad it wasn't axel bearing like I suspected.

I happened to try a free clutch I got from a rev that was headed to the dump. It fit with some shiming.

I had a used Cudney clutch set and a pin kit. The helix didn't match. It was for a button and I had a roller.

Went heavy on the pin weight. Three medium guys each.

Light blue primary .75" taller than stock

Red secondary .75" taller than green I removed

Engagement is a high 4000rpm or better

Moves along nicely 5-6500rpm still snappy

Pulls okay up to 8000. 8200 in low. Clickers on 2. Never seen a ramp this profile.

I would like a tad softer engagement but the etec can be boggy.

I will see what my gf thinks of it and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update.

I put an old SC4 X center shock and let out the limiter strap.

..things I thought I would never say in the utility forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How does it ride with the update?
Much more playful!

Certainly more my style.
Still turns flat under throttle. Would lift the skis and transfer weight now. More positive traction in the short 4km I road home.

I deliberately throttled up headed toward some small bumps and since the rail have more range of action it didn't bottom or jar. It seemed to help the pogo work better.

Then I jumped a small road crossing. No bottoming.

I believe the oil shock seal was hurt and it had taken on water and frozen. I loosen limiter strap and have enough body weight I can manipulate it to do what I want.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dose anyone know where to get plastics for this sled. I'm sure skidoo will list them as available but the price is pretty high for a piece of plastic.

I'm looking specifically for over the belt and over the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah looks like new retail is $269CAN each. I was hoping to get them cheap or used. The sleds 8 years old it spent 3 parked with a holed piston.
 
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