New garage cost
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it all depend of your personal needs.... have build one 60x40 with 14 feet hight and like others have posted here ....it is almost full. 
heated concrete floors,propane heating system,led neon lightning system and a mezzanine.also have to count the electricity install and air install for compressor.over 70k... the problem....i have too many toys... :blink: :blink: :blink: .normal garage must go for around 30 k and iff you do a lot of work yourself could drop the cost a bit. :righton
heated concrete floors,propane heating system,led neon lightning system and a mezzanine.also have to count the electricity install and air install for compressor.over 70k... the problem....i have too many toys... :blink: :blink: :blink: .normal garage must go for around 30 k and iff you do a lot of work yourself could drop the cost a bit. :righton
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60 long? Pics of the inside? Wife and I just built a new house and we have two parcels of land so my thoughts are to build the shop across the road which is private and only one other person one it. Gonna be many years before it happens but I'm starting the process of reading resources, differ t build types etc.... i love looking at others garages and I get my own ideas from them.it all depend of your personal needs.... have build one 60x40 with 14 feet hight and like others have posted here ....it is almost full..normal garage must go for around 30 k and iff you do a lot of work yourself could drop the cost a bit. :righton
.normal garage must go for around 30 k and iff you do a lot of work yourself could drop the cost a bit. :righton
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Lots of good info given so far, if you haven't been to check out http://garagejournal.com
2012 Freeride 137, 2020 FreeRide 154, 2022 XRS 900 T R
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Before you get to far down your planning path make sure you do not end up with a "City code" issue like I did when I first started planning. Could only go 1000 square feet per outbuilding for inside area. The "dumb part" is I can build as many as I like as long as all are spaced enough from each other and meet lot line set backs. (So why not allow the owner to decide "1" bigger or 2 or 3 smaller but not attached. . . .)
Also had a height restriction which I can agree with but should also take into account the lot, in my case the back yard where we built is lower than where the house is so even with 12' side walls of the shed the roof line is lower than the house. (In the end this met my needs but campers can be tall so 10' tall doors might not be enough for future buyers. . .)
The old 24 x 30 shed I replaced only had 1 door, for 20 years I fought moving this and that out of the way to get the other thing out that door! New shed is 31.5 x 32 but has a walk in door, 3 10 by 12 doors and a 8 x 9 to get mowers and alike out the one side. (Also allows for sleds to come in but I have yet to use it for that as I became too lazy to clear enough snow to get them in that side!)
Also consider your roof line, old shed had doorway on the north side and gable ends east and west so all the rain and worse snow and ice fell in front of the one door. You might not be able to do anything about this on your site but in my case I turned the roof so rafters are wider than the building is long just to avoid ice running down the north side of the building. (Keep telling yourself, cost is only once, use is a lifetime) Since I have 4 overhead doors I still have the ice over 2 of the door but only the small overhead door facing east is an issue as I do not have "driveway access" to get a snowblower over there.
Roof overhang is another thing to think of, I got by with 2 feet but really should have been more. Each person has to build for their needs but I was sick of pulling snow off the roof then moving it so it would not have the next "slide" pile up and pushing back on the shed wall. New building allows the snow slides off the roof to land far enough away that is has not piled up to the shed wall. (Yes, I know if we get snow all winter that I never move at some point it will but if we get that much snow it would be worth moving it! The main thing is the main doors I need to use are not an issue anymore)
Cost, that is really up to you! First info I had from name brand "pole shed" company was for $50,000.00 for just building and cement floor no sight work and not insulated or heated. That shut me down for weeks and almost did repairs and maint on the old shed. I then went to a second name brand and was better price but still no site work included. Luckily for my bank account I found out about a builder through my local electrician while getting price to get power installed. I ended up below the first quote with all site work, including new asphalt driveway, fully heated so it really depends on shopping around and deciding what you want. (Again, spend it once, use it a lifetime. . .)
Site work, in my case this was a killer! When I bought the place years back all the slope ran right to the old shed area. The east end of the shed had plenty of fall to keep and summer time water from ever being a issue, if water would have ever "backed up" then whole neighborhoods of homes would have had water over the roof. However, add in some snow and ice to trap water, that old shed was in trouble! New site had over 3 feet of fill added to ensure water was not going to be an issue. (Also meant the old driveway needed to go. . .)
Keep track of all the things you are adding in though, bare bones start numbers increase quick but in my case was just so easy to have this or that "done with" vs going back later.
Good luck and share pics as you go!
Also had a height restriction which I can agree with but should also take into account the lot, in my case the back yard where we built is lower than where the house is so even with 12' side walls of the shed the roof line is lower than the house. (In the end this met my needs but campers can be tall so 10' tall doors might not be enough for future buyers. . .)
The old 24 x 30 shed I replaced only had 1 door, for 20 years I fought moving this and that out of the way to get the other thing out that door! New shed is 31.5 x 32 but has a walk in door, 3 10 by 12 doors and a 8 x 9 to get mowers and alike out the one side. (Also allows for sleds to come in but I have yet to use it for that as I became too lazy to clear enough snow to get them in that side!)
Also consider your roof line, old shed had doorway on the north side and gable ends east and west so all the rain and worse snow and ice fell in front of the one door. You might not be able to do anything about this on your site but in my case I turned the roof so rafters are wider than the building is long just to avoid ice running down the north side of the building. (Keep telling yourself, cost is only once, use is a lifetime) Since I have 4 overhead doors I still have the ice over 2 of the door but only the small overhead door facing east is an issue as I do not have "driveway access" to get a snowblower over there.
Roof overhang is another thing to think of, I got by with 2 feet but really should have been more. Each person has to build for their needs but I was sick of pulling snow off the roof then moving it so it would not have the next "slide" pile up and pushing back on the shed wall. New building allows the snow slides off the roof to land far enough away that is has not piled up to the shed wall. (Yes, I know if we get snow all winter that I never move at some point it will but if we get that much snow it would be worth moving it! The main thing is the main doors I need to use are not an issue anymore)
Cost, that is really up to you! First info I had from name brand "pole shed" company was for $50,000.00 for just building and cement floor no sight work and not insulated or heated. That shut me down for weeks and almost did repairs and maint on the old shed. I then went to a second name brand and was better price but still no site work included. Luckily for my bank account I found out about a builder through my local electrician while getting price to get power installed. I ended up below the first quote with all site work, including new asphalt driveway, fully heated so it really depends on shopping around and deciding what you want. (Again, spend it once, use it a lifetime. . .)
Site work, in my case this was a killer! When I bought the place years back all the slope ran right to the old shed area. The east end of the shed had plenty of fall to keep and summer time water from ever being a issue, if water would have ever "backed up" then whole neighborhoods of homes would have had water over the roof. However, add in some snow and ice to trap water, that old shed was in trouble! New site had over 3 feet of fill added to ensure water was not going to be an issue. (Also meant the old driveway needed to go. . .)
Keep track of all the things you are adding in though, bare bones start numbers increase quick but in my case was just so easy to have this or that "done with" vs going back later.
Good luck and share pics as you go!
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It is not cheaper to heat your building with in floor heat. It is nice to have the heat on the floor but the initial extra cost of the radiant flooring will never be recovered in savings of heating its just a luxury.
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I wish I would have built my shop a little bigger. So I wouldn't of had to do this to store my 26 foot SeaRay.
![Building Door Wood Grey Floor]()
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Wow^^^^^
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That would depend on how the floor was done. Doing it yourself will save a lot of labor. Depending what you pay for natural gas and how often its used, you could surpass the investment of the floor in a few years. Running recycled water through a boiler doesn't use much electricity.
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Recycled water? What the hell does that mean?
agreed, i have in floor heat in my house and the boiler draws alooot of power (60 amp breaker) i run a heat pump now and my power bill is half the cost of in floor
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Most radiant floors are a closed loop system reusing the same water, recycled.
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Have you ever seen an open loop radiant system?
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Admittedly my experience is minimal. When I built my house we did the basement floor. I was able to watch it all be installed. You sound eager to tell me how wrong I must be. I'm all ears...
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Actually, I think he just wants to clarify that it isn't "Most", but rather "All"
But I've actually seen non-closed loop systems, but they were sitting on top of hot springs.
There are open loop systems. But may or may not meet local provincial or state building codes. A simplesearch will bring up lots of data.
The biggest cost is the heat source. Boiler or water heater. Most contractors will try to sell you a boiler with all the fancy controls to prevent the high temp water from damaging the system. Pricy
I went with a simple tankless water heater as it has built in controll to limit temp to 120-140c. And at less than 2k. It is capable of 200000btu but i bet it is only running at 50% when heating.
My opinion is regardless of radiant floor heat or not. You must insulate the floor. 10% heat loss to the ground. You wont regret it.
Therefor the cost to heat afterwards is
Tankless water heater-2000
Pex pipe depending on sf-1000
Pump-200
Expansion tank-50
Misc plumbing fittings-200
Glycol-100
Total 3550cdn
How much is a forced air unit?
The biggest cost is the heat source. Boiler or water heater. Most contractors will try to sell you a boiler with all the fancy controls to prevent the high temp water from damaging the system. Pricy
I went with a simple tankless water heater as it has built in controll to limit temp to 120-140c. And at less than 2k. It is capable of 200000btu but i bet it is only running at 50% when heating.
My opinion is regardless of radiant floor heat or not. You must insulate the floor. 10% heat loss to the ground. You wont regret it.
Therefor the cost to heat afterwards is
Tankless water heater-2000
Pex pipe depending on sf-1000
Pump-200
Expansion tank-50
Misc plumbing fittings-200
Glycol-100
Total 3550cdn
How much is a forced air unit?
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5,213 Posts
This has me wondering. Is this a huge house? I mean, 10k sq ft? My neighbor has a house with 3 Truck garage (can park 3 semi-trucks inside) and he put in floor heating through out. I asked him about the power requirements and he said it all runs on a 20 amp breaker. About 6 amps (7 amp start up) for the boiler and 3 amps per circulating pump, which he has 3. Two for the garage and 1 for the house.
His installation was cheap since that is what he does.
He did say it doesn't save him any money over normal garage style heaters, but it is nice because the floor is warm.
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It sounds to me like he's doing his radiant in floor heat with a heat pump. Either water to water or air to water.
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