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NEW design for XS821 belt - no longer needs clutch changes.

8K views 38 replies 18 participants last post by  krm  
#1 ·
Listening to a podcast with Ultimax, pretty great detail on the tech and proper procedures (break in, etc). Asked why the 821 always needs a clicker / weight change...

...and it turns out Ultimax has actually re-engineered the XS821 as of April of 2023, so any belts this year (assuming stock changeover) should not result in any RPM changes. The change wasn't to the compound or anything, so it should still grip and pull just as hard, but the top cogs are a bit larger / wider spacing than the old design, and apparently that affects the belts peak RPM for given clutching to be much more in line with the 571.

Cool :)

Would be curious to see if anyone's noticed that this winter or not.

(FWIW, I tried an "old" XS821 this winter, and even though I've got less than 1000km on it, it's a new favorite for sure - can definitely feel it grabbing more and transferring the power better than my 571)
 
#2 ·
That's very interesting. I have run several 821s and always had to click up after break-in. I bought a new one several weeks ago and left my clickers on 4 from the last one. I was thinking it would rev high but it didn't. Right outta the gate I'm at 7900-8000
 
#7 ·
I will report back on this. I JUST blew a GBoost belt on my last trip, and put on a very low milage and broken in stock 571 for the remainder of the trip. I bought an xs821 to try on the next trip. We’ll see how the new design works.

I do have a HRSS clutch kit that I set and forget. I don’t tune it for the days conditions, but it has always run right around 8100 RPM, so I have been happy.

What did they mention about break in? I have always taken it easy, varied throttle and let it get a couple of heat cycle before really going for it again. Maybe 50 miles total.
 
#8 ·
I have the HRSS as well. Love it. You go to 8100? I go to 7900, thinking of dropping a single magnet in hole 2 (the one closer to the pivot).

Break in was all about heat cycling...the ideal way is to slowly but surely ramp to WOT, then just as surely and slowly slow back down to idle, quickly do it two more times, then take it for a cool down. Of course that's not reasonable for most people gives you an idea of what to target.
 
#12 ·
Longer would raise rpms. the 821 was good belt for a shorter Z measurement and fast conditions, better for drag than on and off throttle in trails, for my riding anyhow. IF they made them longer it would be an improvement.
 
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#16 ·
I might be out this Sunday if the warm kick doesn’t ruin the couple of spots I am thinking will be okay for at least a quick rip. If not, it’s the Canada trip the following weekend. Tough year for R&D.
 
#17 ·
Got one in this week. After break in i see a ramp up of 225+ rpm versus my 3500 km old 821. Could not noticed difference in length. Clutches still clean. Getting my 8000 back with just the belt, am not sure i would have choosen the red-yellow Dalton + Doo 350 as a refresh last week. (not received/installed yet)
Seem to me that this more gummy compound thing tagged to the 821 was not much so than its side profile.
 
#18 ·
I have one of the newer versions of this belt. I had a chance to break it in and put about 120 miles on it. I have a HRSS clutch kit that is set up per their instructions and I haven’t touched the calibration. This belt pulls 8-8100 very consistently, again no changes to clutching. I FEEL like this sled has never pulled to 90 this quickly. I am VERY happy with this set up.
 
#29 ·
Just bought an XS821 to replace my 571 that went bad on me and am noticing some fairly significant track creep with the backend lifted up. Just wondering if this is the belt itself aka too much belt tension or if it's something else.
 
#31 ·
On the old ones I always found they needed a few hundred miles to settle in too.

I have one on my 900R, it consistently pulls 7,900 now it's settled in.

That's the old style, I have no experience with the new one yet.
 
#33 ·
I can't visually see a difference between the new version and the old. Unless the one i just got this week is the old style but i would be surprised. Do we know of anyway to distinguish between the old and new.
The true test will be to run one then the other back to back.
 
#37 ·
Thanks Ken that's great information.
So as it stands i have 2 older styles with the smaller top cogs and my new one is the newer style.
 
#38 ·
I noticed a difference - I have HRSS clutching and on the old belt had to drop some weight to get it to pull RPM. I went back to "stock" weighting before even trying the new one, and am happy to say it's nailing top end.

The initial few km were outrageously good performance at -15 C. By the end of the day at -2 it felt just the tiniest bit lazier. I may drop a magnet close to the pivot. Otherwise, no complaints with the new style, but I am NOT the right person to judge - seat of the pants and fun factor are all I care about, and I have no official evidence whatsoever to back up my claims.