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Need help with 2008 summit 800r

2K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  Daag44 
#1 ·
I'm new to sledding and working on these engines so I need some guidance on what my issue is. I have been on 3 trips mountain sledding with this thing and it was starting first pull the first time. It sat outside for like a month after the first trip and since then it has been incredibly hard to start. It has 980 miles on it so the engine should be in decent condition.

Basically it won't start after being left off for more than an hour. So the beginning of the day is tough but once it gets warmed up it will start first pull until I'm done riding.

When trying to start it cold, it will give a little bit on the first pull and the lights will come on first pull but after that the pull cord becomes very hard to pull and it won't give me anything. It can take up to an hour of pulling it, flooding it, then letting it sit before I can get it started. I have heard that cleaning the jets may be a good option but I've also heard a million other thing that can help get it going.

Please let me know what you think!
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
If the only problem is a hard cold start, then check the choke and clean the reeds. Sticky reeds alone can cause a hard cold start, but understandably the choke needs to work. The easy way to eliminate the choke is using a squirt bottle with whatever 2S mix you have around. Obviously it works better to use relatively fresh gas and not what was mixed 6 months ago.

The only thing that the choke does on an 800R P-TEK is to open a circuit to add more gas. This is the reason that on a real cold start you need to flip the choke level to full, then lower it to half once it starts. The engine needs more gas to initially start, and only half or less of this amount to keep running while it warms up. The EFI in our cars and trucks work the same way, but with more precision.

Here is precisely how I would approach it as someone knew to the sled and knowing there was a problem with only a cold start. While it was stone cold and I expected a hard start, I would remove the airbox and give one good squirt for each carb. If still no start after a few pulls, then I would remove each plug and check for spark strength, then clean them up on a bench top wire wheel. Put the plugs back in, give another squirt to each carb and give another try. If still no start, then I would remove the carb rack and then the reeds to give them a cleaning. Reeds are a PITA to remove, so I may give them a remote cleaning without removal to confirm this was the problem.

Premix Hair-Dye Squirt Bottle
Started By Daag44, Jul 12 2020 11:11 AM
 
#4 ·
I would definitely do what daag said. The spray bottle trick is wonderful. Mine wouldn't start without throttle and the choke on full, ended up being dirty carbs. I would clean them well with solvent and compressed air to blow out the small holes. My carbs ended up being dirty and the choke was sticking.

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#5 ·
No offense, but you want to avoid using anything metal to clean plugs. The porcelain near the electrode can pick up some of the metal thru friction (similar to sandpaper). This can provide a ground path causing the spark to jump across where one would not want it to.
 
#6 ·
AKRideNMine, it seems that you have given it a try. It is amazing how much easier it is to sort through once the engine starts and runs.

Scott C, when I clean a plug it is because it already has a ground path that bypasses the tip of the center electrode. Next time you have a fouled plug, use a magnifying glass to see it. If you prefer other options, the plug can be cleaned by heating with a torch or with a soda blaster. Whatever works.
 
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