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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been running the doo doctor floater since the beginning of the season with no issues at all. No vibrations. I went ahead and few weeks later installed a 25 tooth top gear with a 104 link chain and ran it for a couple weekends with no issues. I then installed the clutch kit I picked up from a site sponsor which included a different helix. After about 5 miles it developed a nasty vibration. Took it back to camp and replaced the rollers because I noticed that the helix was starting to cut a gauge into the stock rollers. I replaced them with the hi-torque rollers and went about 3 miles before it developed the same vibration. So I put the stock helix back into it and the vibration went away and ran it for about 500 miles over the weekend vibration free.

I noticed that when you grab the secondary at 3 and 9 o'clock there is a little bit of wiggle and I'm thinking that with the aftermarket helix I'm running this "wiggle" is becoming more pronounced due to the way the roller riding on this rounded edge. This edge is what gauged the stock roller. if you take a look at the stock helix it does not have this beveled edge that the aftermarket helix has. The attached pics are the aftermarket helix and the stock roller I removed. I do not have a pic of the stock helix right now to post.

I'm sure I'm not the only one running an aftermarket helix with the doo doctor setup. Has anybody else had a similar experience? I just want to get a little input before I contact the company I got the clutch kit from.
 

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I've been running DD's floater on two 800r's with helixes from two different companies. No vibrations what so ever. Both helixes have their edges "chamfered" like your pic shows. And yes, the stock helix is not chamfered. I would say you got a bad helix.
 

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No, rollers still look great.
 

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This happens with my kits just about every week. Someone says something about a vibration and not running so good. Then go through a series of questions with them and get to this portion...

The helix might have been installed wrong and the proof is scratch marks on the roller path of the helix. The cross of the sheave is rubbing on the helix angled path (metal on metal)

I suspect that you might have installed the helix in wrong

I have videos for such a thing...

Clutch maintenance video (5 total)

Arrow_align_4.jpg

swivel washer remove.jpg
 

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Joe,

I actually watched a couple of your videos prior to the install and you made sure to stress that point of the roller being in the proper track which I paid close attention to. I'm 99% sure it was installed correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey guys so I'm digging up this old thread because I got the replacement helix and finally got around to install it in anticipation of the season. The helix I got was actually a stock helix that was machined to see if that helped at all.

I made sure the rollers were in the proper groove and re-installed.

I pulled the primary off and cleaned out and made sure that everything was lined up. The alignment marks on the governor cup, spring cup, and sliding sheave are pretty clear. The mark on the fixed portion is a little tougher to see but there is an arrow that I lined up.

So I put everything back on and spun the track up to about 7000 rpm. The vibration was clearly evident again. It doesn't get bad until I hit the higher RPM's. I know these machines have quite a bit of vibration at idle but it looks pretty bad and is evident in the handlebars.

I am going to try putting the stock helix back in it and see if the vibration goes away or becomes less evident.

The sled had the recall update done prior to last season and at the same time they replaced the crank. Is it possible that they put in a crank from the 2012's which should be indexed with the primary?
 

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Hey guys so I'm digging up this old thread because I got the replacement helix and finally got around to install it in anticipation of the season. The helix I got was actually a stock helix that was machined to see if that helped at all.

I made sure the rollers were in the proper groove and re-installed.

I pulled the primary off and cleaned out and made sure that everything was lined up. The alignment marks on the governor cup, spring cup, and sliding sheave are pretty clear. The mark on the fixed portion is a little tougher to see but there is an arrow that I lined up.

So I put everything back on and spun the track up to about 7000 rpm. The vibration was clearly evident again. It doesn't get bad until I hit the higher RPM's. I know these machines have quite a bit of vibration at idle but it looks pretty bad and is evident in the handlebars.

I am going to try putting the stock helix back in it and see if the vibration goes away or becomes less evident.

The sled had the recall update done prior to last season and at the same time they replaced the crank. Is it possible that they put in a crank from the 2012's which should be indexed with the primary?
If you have one of those cranks it would have an index mark on the stub. To rule out the crank primary you could index yourself by installing in different positions to try and find the smoothest.
 

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If changing parts in the secondary makes the vibration go away, Id think that would rule out the crank being an issue?
 

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If changing parts in the secondary makes the vibration go away, Id think that would rule out the crank being an issue?
agreed
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If changing parts in the secondary makes the vibration go away, Id think that would rule out the crank being an issue?
I was thinking that too... but the other part of me thinks that maybe the vibration is originating in the primary and becoming more evident in the secondary because of the slight bit of wiggle on the splined shaft of the floater?
 

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Is it soley the angle of the helix that would change with an aftermarket helix? I'm trying to understand what about an aftermarket helix would cause a vibration.

The floater has the inner half from a 13... not sure if that could cause an issue?
 

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Hey guys so I'm digging up this old thread because I got the replacement helix and finally got around to install it in anticipation of the season. The helix I got was actually a stock helix that was machined to see if that helped at all.

I made sure the rollers were in the proper groove and re-installed.

I pulled the primary off and cleaned out and made sure that everything was lined up. The alignment marks on the governor cup, spring cup, and sliding sheave are pretty clear. The mark on the fixed portion is a little tougher to see but there is an arrow that I lined up.

So I put everything back on and spun the track up to about 7000 rpm. The vibration was clearly evident again. It doesn't get bad until I hit the higher RPM's. I know these machines have quite a bit of vibration at idle but it looks pretty bad and is evident in the handlebars.

I am going to try putting the stock helix back in it and see if the vibration goes away or becomes less evident.

The sled had the recall update done prior to last season and at the same time they replaced the crank. Is it possible that they put in a crank from the 2012's which should be indexed with the primary?
need to confirm as you said with the stock helix again, if that makes the vibes go away that is still the issue.
 

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Did the crank change and the helix change happen at the same time? Or independent of each other? And if so, when did the vibration start, after the crank change or after the helix change?

And it did not vibrate with the original crank and the original helix and the doo doctor floater....

Neat chronological introduction of each item and when the vibration started.

Stock

Doo doctor floater..

New Crank

New helix

By the same token, if you put the stock helix back in the doodoctor secondary which did not vibrate before.. and it vibrates now, that pretty much defines it as being the crank. Sounds like you are following the right path.
 

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Check to see if the bushing that the backside secondary sheave slides on is intact. If it's gone you will get driveline vibration.
 

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Ok i know this might be a little confusing so like djm said here is a chronological breakdown.

Bought sled prior to last year w/ 2011 dealer recall work done. New top end, new crank, and new reed petals.

Installed doo doc floater. Put 1000 miles on w/ no issues or vibrations.

25 tooth top sprocket w/ 104 link chain. 500 miles no issues or vibrations.

Clutch kit w/ helix. 5 miles or so vibration started and chewed up rollers.

Put stock helix back in with new rollers and with primary components still installed and vibration went away. Put about 500 miles on it after that.

Season ended

Did preseason maintence and got a replacement helix from manufacturer. Installed helix and spun it on the track stand. Ran it up to 7k and noticed a pretty significant vibration.

I am going to try and swap stock helix back in on Friday and see if that helps.

Merry Christmas guys and I appreciate the input.
 
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