[REVNECK]

05 REV 600 HO carb, 4k with perfect compression. Added a Cudney kit (both springs, weights, Helix) Dropped top gear 1 tooth. Brand new belt, brand new plugs, semi-loose track. Get 8100 rpm's as it should.

It seems the belt is a second behind the clutching if that makes sense. There is just something missing and I cant figure it out. I dont want to touch the clickers because I think 8100 rpm's is where I need to be, right? The sled just dosent pull like it should. Dont get me wrong, it's a raped ape for the most part but I am unsure if the sled is any quicker now than befor the Cudney kit and top gear. My bud's stock 600ho is still right next to me ...

Back to the belt/clutch - I just feels like the belt is easing into the secondary instead of banging in. Where would you look first??

 

[doo rider]

you probably wouldn't have gained that much in the way of top end with the kit and gearing. But you should get there a hell of alot quicker.

 

[bigf150]

when you say it should be faster. what do you mean? Acceleration? top end? are you running studs? you on ice/snow when testing?

1 Your track can only push so much snow w/o studs or a deeper lug track. what do you have for traction?

2 your buddy should be right next to you on the top end (a clutch kit and gear will help mid range)

3 How is your suspention set up? Your riding buddy might be hooking up better than you.

 

[BRAD81]

DROP THE CLICKER ONE AND TRY AGAIN. DID THE SAME WITH MINE, RPM DID NOT DROP BUT IT WAS FASTER.

 

[REVNECK]

Brad, I will give that a try -

My goal here was to make the sled a hole-shot, midrange monster. I expected to lose a little top end, that dosent bother me. I have 96 studs and am thinking of going to 144.
Suspension wise, stock limiter strap setting, all shocks on "2" and preload block on 3/4. Coupler blocks are coupled, fat side toward rear....

 

[mxzdoo2]

Dropping the clicker will not make it launch harder. You revs seem to be right where they need to be because your tach is (usually) reading a scosch high. It is an easy trial as you can run your buddy after dropping them.

Brad, I will give that a try -

My goal here was to make the sled a hole-shot, midrange monster. I expected to lose a little top end, that dosent bother me. I have 96 studs and am thinking of going to 144.
Suspension wise, stock limiter strap setting, all shocks on "2" and preload block on 3/4. Coupler blocks are coupled, fat side toward rear....

[snapback]708070[/snapback]​

 

[jb's03 rev]

05 REV 600 HO carb, 4k with perfect compression. Added a Cudney kit (both springs, weights, Helix) Dropped top gear 1 tooth. Brand new belt, brand new plugs, semi-loose track. Get 8100 rpm's as it should.

It seems the belt is a second behind the clutching if that makes sense. There is just something missing and I cant figure it out. I dont want to touch the clickers because I think 8100 rpm's is where I need to be, right? The sled just dosent pull like it should. Dont get me wrong, it's a raped ape for the most part but I am unsure if the sled is any quicker now than befor the Cudney kit and top gear. My bud's stock 600ho is still right next to me ...

Back to the belt/clutch - I just feels like the belt is easing into the secondary instead of banging in. Where would you look first??

[snapback]706531[/snapback]​

HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.PUT IN MORE PIN WEIGHT.START WITH I SHORT=.9 GM,THEN TRY 2 SHORTS OR 1 LONG.Mine did same thing primary is'nt shifting out all the way.Pulled like a Raped Ape until about 85 ,then no more top end,but rpm's were good.