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Ski-Doo Rider Fo' Sho'
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2005 800 X that I rode for most of last season and really fell in love with. I put 700 VERY hard miles on it and blew the motor up at almost 7800 miles. I normally go through a few sleds a season, and just cant find one I'm happy with, but this 800 X is definitely far beyond any other sled I've owned. It prove itself to me again and again so I am doing a full build on it.

When the motor blew it sounded like a fouled spark plug ( low end bogging with still some mid range + wide open power, in fact enough to hold the skis up from a dead stop ). Pulled one plug and it was nice brown. The second was the same, but with shimmers of metal in it. I trucked it home from there and began to pull the motor apart. I found that I got a gouge in one of my cylinder that took a piece out of my power valve. So here is the plan for the motor ( open to other ideas to ). ( Also has a electric start )

Crankshop trail ported cylinders
Stock Rave valves
Crankshop or SLP single pipe with stock silencer
Slightly thinner base gasket to raise compression and mix a half a gallon of 100LL with 91 at the pump ( Keep a 3 gallon can on back all the time )
Drop from the current 24 tooth ( stock was 25, but would like one more down ) to a 23 and replace the bottom with a factory 600 mod slipper ( can get it for free ).

I also will be needing a new track. My last 100 miles were on a track that measured .4" and was removed from 94' Arctic Cat due to my track coming apart and needing a replacement that day. I am thinking I would like to go with a 136x1.5", because a 121x1.75" will tear up to quick on the hard pack but 121x1.5 wont give me the traction or flotation. If I choose 136" I'd like to get rid of that tail light from there, but a space in the plastic would like terrible. So going that route may require a 440 seat to look okay ( which may not happen because I have other priorities while on a budget )

Skis are another thing I have to replace. I rode with C&A Razors for a few hundred miles with 8" carbides and they were to aggressive all the time. I was looking into slydogs but after feeling how thin the loops were i'm rethinking it.

And I don't mean to sound like a poser, but I'd like my sled to be able to stand up just a little easier, while still maintaining good ski pressure. Any ideas? It picks up good as is, but just not quite as much as I want.

Any other ideas?

Some shots of the sled ( and a couple of a friend )
 

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I'd just buy a good already studded 440 track. It won't tear up on hard pack unless that means endless roads and tons of rock, stump and dirt riding. How about keeping your C/A's and putting 4" carbides on them and trying to adjust the ski pressure. I definately wouldn't raise the compression that much. You don't want that 3 gallon on there for jumping or the cost of the gas. How about a DJ clutch kit with the money saved from not buying different skis.
Quick List
Sell the E-Start for $200
440 Muffler Brace
440 Steering post brace
Put steering post in forward position
Ditch foam
Rebuild/revalve shocks
 

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Your shopping list sounds cool but you are looking at $1000 on your rebuild if you don't need to doo anything to the crank and at 7800 miles you seriously need to check it out. Oh yeah that's doing all the work yourself, I just did mine.
 

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Master of getting stuck
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1,555 Posts
Like Doc1 said, get rid of the e-start get rid of the 24 lbs, scrape out the foam it may not weigh much dry, but it holds water and will add weight , and look into the clutch kits. The clutch kit seems to be a huge improvement over stock set ups.

If you take the 136" route, get an SC4 skid. I found a couple on craigslist and ebay for fairly cheap. I have the 1.25" lug and want bigger. I have heard no problems with the 1.75" guys tearing up lugs.

As far as the compression, just be careful with going up too much. I have been some places where I needed gas and could not find any 91, all 87. I know you said you have a gas caddy, but the extra 3 gal. will only take you so far. I carry some octane boost with me too.

Start the tear down with the internals, work your way out. Big bore kit if you have the money to throw around, would not be a bad choice. The possibilities are endless if you have the cash to fund it.

Good luck with the build, keep us posted.
 

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For skies, Look at some SLP powderpros with 6" carbides, amazing on and offtrail, any colour loop/ski combo and you can get them with black powder coated racing mounts that are stronger then oem.

-Ditch your foam
-Drop 1-2 teeth on top gear
-Hit DJ up for a clutch kit youll be amazed
-Steering post forward as mentioned Already
-1.5 or 1.75 track will work perfectly for trail/offtrail no need for ice scratchers, been using this kinda set up for few years now, no lugs missing and thats with having to use pavement at times.
- If you go 136 definetly get a sc4 skid, the sc3 is good if you dont mind getting ur shocks all redone and setup for you, but stock its pretty sad compared to a sc4. ( Might as well rebuild/recharge all shocks while your at it, You might think there good, but it'll be a nice and day difference.
-If you dont need it ditch the e-start.

At that kind of mileage i'd for sure be atleast at minium checking your crank and the runout.
 

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Like Doc1 said, get rid of the e-start get rid of the 24 lbs, scrape out the foam it may not weigh much dry, but it holds water and will add weight , and look into the clutch kits. The clutch kit seems to be a huge improvement over stock set ups.

If you take the 136" route, get an SC4 skid. I found a couple on craigslist and ebay for fairly cheap. I have the 1.25" lug and want bigger. I have heard no problems with the 1.75" guys tearing up lugs.

As far as the compression, just be careful with going up too much. I have been some places where I needed gas and could not find any 91, all 87. I know you said you have a gas caddy, but the extra 3 gal. will only take you so far. I carry some octane boost with me too.

Start the tear down with the internals, work your way out. Big bore kit if you have the money to throw around, would not be a bad choice. The possibilities are endless if you have the cash to fund it.

Good luck with the build, keep us posted.
what do you mean by scraping out the foam?
 

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Ski-Doo Rider Fo' Sho'
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1,670 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The reason for new skis is I sold them with my IQ since that was originally where they came from. I'd like to say also that i'm not unfamiliar with building sleds. Im just looking for some other ideas. My dad was one of the people that built a triple rev this past season using CPI pipes, bondi mounting kit, an 05' trail seat with a modified 03' tail plastic and 03' x package tunnel plastic and it even has electric start and oil injection as well as full size heat exchanger.

I will be keeping the SC-4 and just extending it. I planned on putting about $1000 into the motor in just parts and do the motor work myself.
 

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Master of getting stuck
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If you need to buy an SC4, I would buy a renegade/summit sc4 skid instead of buying a 121 and extending it.

Is the $1,000 including the parts needed to rebuild? If so, I would go with all stock parts, except the pistons. MCB dual ring pistons seem to be a popular choice, that's what I have and have no complaints.

The clutch is probably going to be one of the best purchases you can buy. But, since the motor is already going to be torn apart, porting is never a bad idea. There are tons of options, just depends on what you plan on doing with your sled and what you hope to get out of it.
 

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Ski-Doo Rider Fo' Sho'
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1,670 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you need to buy an SC4, I would buy a renegade/summit sc4 skid instead of buying a 121 and extending it.

Is the $1,000 including the parts needed to rebuild? If so, I would go with all stock parts, except the pistons. MCB dual ring pistons seem to be a popular choice, that's what I have and have no complaints.

The clutch is probably going to be one of the best purchases you can buy. But, since the motor is already going to be torn apart, porting is never a bad idea. There are tons of options, just depends on what you plan on doing with your sled and what you hope to get out of it.
I'm basically building a sled for the state of Maine. Some mountains/hills, but nothing huge. A little woods riding, and a lot of jumping and just playing around off trail.

Is there any way to make the 800 more responsive ( get rid of the famous 800 bog ). I'm not sure what a good carb choice would be either. I may even be able to have my dad do minor porting.

I've already got the foam removed ( not even by choice, it all just kind of fell off ), but I'm definitely keeping the electric start. After a very rough day of riding, I barley want to stand, let alone pulling over that 800 after the motor gets loaded up from running upside down in the snow.
 

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I kept my electric start also. My 800 definately doesn't have any bog issues.
 

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Ski-Doo Rider Fo' Sho'
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Its not a big issue exactly. Its an occasional bog, like once every 150 miles type thing. Its like a stall out then go again.

Does anyone have any clutching specs that they would recommend for just minor porting. I'm looking for something snappy, but not quite as snappy as a race sled ( I'll be happy with 4800rpm engagement ). I don't do a lot of high speed runs. Even if I'm on a lake I dont usually go more than 65-70 ( bad experiences with going fast and having a belt come apart ).

Picture of it right now:



I'm also looking at ditching the rev headlight. I'd like to put prefilter material on the hood where the headlight normally is just to remove some under hood heat. I still need headlights, and I'd prefer bright ones, anyone have any experience with using PIAA lights? Know where it should be mounted?
 

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Those look like non-rebuildable front shocks. In 05 the x's had piggybacks. Have you changed them out or did you get screwed when you bought it?
 

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Ski-Doo Rider Fo' Sho'
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Those look like non-rebuildable front shocks. In 05 the x's had piggybacks. Have you changed them out or did you get screwed when you bought it?
My dad wanted the piggybacks for his triple ( which had stock 06 rebuildables on it ), and is giving me $250 towards some C-36's for the front. FYI, non-rebuildable shocks from doo have black valve bodies.

I've smashed a lot of stumps and what not since I've bought this machine, and the nun is still surprisingly straight. I have a 440 nun sitting in my garage that I will be removing the braces from ( wont actually be using the nun because the shock mounts have been ripped off it ).
 

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FYI,not all non-rebuildable are black painted steel bodies. All adrenaline models came with grey colored aluminum non-rebuildables.
 

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Ski-Doo Rider Fo' Sho'
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I stand corrected than. I believe they are rebuildable but maybe not.
 

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I stand corrected than. I believe they are rebuildable but maybe not.
The black bodied shocks are motion control shocks, they are oil dampened shocks with no nitrogen charge.

The shocks on your sled in the picture are Adrenaline shocks, and are not rebuildable.

To determine if they are rechargable you need to look for a recharge port.

Some of the older ones have an aluminum cap on the shock body just above the lower mount. The newer ones have a have a brass bolt with a phillips screw in the middle. The really new ones have that brass bolt powdercoated, but it still have the phillips screw in the middle that covers the rubber, self-healing port.
 
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