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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Good evening. Thanks for the encouraging remarks. The forum and quality members like yourself will make this ban enjoyable experience. I only wish these sources of good info were around when I was younger and tuning my Phazer.
 

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Keep in mind that it's not entirely uncommon to get a new LP pump and it's a dud from the box. I had a new one that leaked, and my buddy had one that didn't work - while we replaced his we had taken the clutch and secondary off, cleaned & inspected the raves and ended up chasing our tails for a weekend because the new dud LP pump didn't present itself the same way as before.

Since the sled runs, I would highly recommend you work on it in phases. Nothing more frustrating with these particular machines if you do some work and a gremlin appears that wasn't there before. Not that you can't handle it - but it's incredibly hard to not search here and then go down the rabbit hole of wild information and turn your machine into a basketcase.
 

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Thanks. True troubleshooting advice for sure. Did you use OEM LP pump when you replaced it
Alot of issues were created by the changing of the pump from the original non electric pulse pump to the electric; using the original pulse pump just mounted up high works well and eliminates a problem waiting to happen with the additional electric pump.
 

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2007 Mach Zx
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I also think the Z is really a consumer race motor. A quick search on the performance increase for traditional 2 stroke go fast Goodies ( pipes /porting /reeds/ clutch kit ) doesn't really give much of a performance increase. Skidoo didn't really leave much left on the table.
So I suppose if you approach the care and maintenance as a race sled hopefully decent durability will follow.
 

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Tough choice for sure. I have no personal experience with the pulse/diaphragm pump other than its original location under the engine. I don't recommend the original location, but it did work for the long life of a sled that I did maintenance on. I finally got one of those original pulse pumps, so it's time to experiment to see how well it works. I won't be considering infiltration of ethanol through separation, nor water as these are both prime suspects for failures with the LP pumps installed lower than the bottom of the gas tank. If I am to test this pump under the engine it will be too see how much oil injection it takes to affect the output. I also know the original setup fails with too much oil used during summerization, which was the hint to look into the effects of enough injection oil used for the crankshaft, and maybe in part why BRP lowered the consumption after the first year model.

Thanks to a member on this forum, we did find that BRP has tested the Mach Z with the new lower oil output, but this was more to fight plug fouling. The caveat was improper measurements that led to 60-70:1 output. What I don't believe they tested was the common situations that brings us here with too many questions and not enough answers.

In comparison, RX7MachZ and I have experienced first hand why and how easy the 1000 SDI is to foul plugs. With the help of BRP and obviously BlueMax, we found how to address this issue, at least for the most part. Neither of us found anything spectacular on this front that hadn't already been explained by BRP and BlueMax. All we did was to learn off of what we were taught and show to ourselves that it worked. The best example I have is a Mach Z that I was given to fix a constant plug fouling issue. After doing the common stuff, it was reportedly still fouling. So the owner lent me the sled for a week and I never fouled a plug. This was back in 2014 and is what has fueled ongoing discussion between RX7MachZ and I. Eventually he showed that he could foul a plug pretty much on demand through improper warm-up, and so did I with a common throttle pumping practice. While it doesn't answer you LP pump question, I mention it because with enough work you can work out anything worth figuring out. By the way, our work on this aspect is done.

To be honest I don't worry about a one solution that fits all. Between RX7MachZ and I, we don't think the same as no one does. Through the years we have found common ground that was worth exploiting. Using a relocated pulse pump was not among either of our experiences, so this one you need to work on your own with whoever is willing to help. I can provide pictures and such, but nothing first hand. I would not hesitate for this elevated setup, but again I cannot speak from experience. My personal experience is with the basic dual and single pump solutions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Well just fogged the new to me Z. The air box was spotless as were the intakes free of any belt debris. The nylon sock over the air box intake appears to be a very inexpensive but noteworthy item. Removed the battery and it was the original Yuasa. Those are some good batteries. I will replace that though. Popped the clutches off and will check and clean them. They do look fine though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Also at the same time I checked the pressure from the LP pump. ( the previous owner had installed a pressure guage, just had to pinch the line to build the pressure. ). The pressure was 5psi.
 

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Take your time to make certain to get the right size Yuasa with the most CCA. A common one sold at the dealer is a little too small. What's important with the LP is the flow. A healthy Posi-Flow pump will give 30 gph +/- a few.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Ok thanks. As I get to know this sled I may try and check the flow rate from the pump.
 

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The GYZ series are high performance. Click here for the comparison chart. Add the H (GYZ20HL) to get whopping 70 additional CCA. But if you decide to get the one without the H for affordability or availability, then get the YTX20L as it is has an additional 20H CCA and is also high performance.

Your two best choices for a 1000 SDI is a YTX20HL @ 310 cca or a GYZ20HL @ 320 cca. These are difficult engines to turn over, especially below -4F (-20C).

Always refer to the Yuasa web site for the specs. I have found many errors in the Yuasa battery specs listed by the Amazon suppliers. This goes for CCA and battery size.

Some things to keep in mind:

1. Yuasa have no suppliers on Amazon. The supplier on Amazon is responsible for the warranty. I have not seen this to be a problem, just don't call Yuasa to backup the warranty. The suppliers on Amazon have every incentive to make their sales go smoothly, so nothing to worry about.

2. If you get a BS battery (Bottle Supplied), make sure to give the absorbent glass mat appropriate time to absorb the acid, and use a smart charger.

3. For a Factory Activated, make sure to check the manufacturing date. I did a test on a brand new FA battery. It never recovered near its full potential after sitting idle for a year from its manufacturing date.

4. Avoid letting the battery discharge for more the three months. Ideally it should be recharged more often, or with a tender.

5. Electric Starter maintenance and voltage drop test are important to get the maximum juice from the battery to the starter. RX7MachZ has posted pictures or maybe a video for the Electric Starter maintenance. The shop manual has the proper voltage drop tests, but it is worth looking in later/newer manuals for the E-TEC.

Have you found the link to all the manuals and tech books? We have up to MY2019 and 4 strokes. Those tech manuals are awesome to see the progress over the years. The 2005 tech book has all the highlights for your sled. The 2006 RT shop manual shows the changes to the fuel pickups.

Yuasa Battery Specs

GYZ20L 250 CCA
GYZ20HL 320 CCA

YTX20L 270 CCA
YTX20HL-BS 310 CCA

A talk with Yu-ah-sa Technical Support
In the topic Another battery discussion
Started By Revs Up, Dec 01 2018 01:58 PM

Recover and Recondition a Sulfated AGM Battery
in the topic Niche batteries
Started By Expeditionxu, Aug 22 2020 10:59 PM
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Thanks again for the great battery info. I do have to try and find the manual link
 

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Google search: Ski-Doo Shop Manuals Bulletins Campaigns
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Morning all. Just chatted with Scott at MCB performance. Wow what a great knowledgable person. Even though I called about an old 14yr sled he gave me the time and some good sound advice for the Z. They run a great business and I see why. So if I ever need to rebuild this unit ( did I say if??!!) I certainly would use one of their kits with confidence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Just wondering if anyone has a method of releasing fuel line pressure without a BUDS. Thanks
 

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Activating one of the injectors will release the fuel pressure.
 
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