From what ive read on other postes the limiter is at 8300 to 8400, I would say if ur Look in for speed u need to gear up, sounds like ur running out of gear, also clean ur drive cluch sounds like something is sticking, there should be more then 100rpm diff from #6 to #3

 

Yes, i know..its 150-200 diff between numbers. I´m not running out of gears, the primary is clean, and new belt. Maybe i didnt explain myself good enough, but at clicker #6 i managed to get about 140 km pr hour, 8000 rpm. At #3 i got 160....To me, i´m sure the motor was holding back as soon as it hit 8000, like a rev limiter...and would not go past 8000, starting to think the rpm gauge would not read beyond 8000....so i´m sure it is not the clutches or running out of gear. Clutches and gearing is stock. Getting 7900 - 8000 at clicker #3, just proofs this and only 8000 at #6. Should be hitting 84-8500 at #6. I could feel the motor holding back at clicker #6 and the gauge was steady at 8000, did not see more rpm, from start to 1000 ft

Anybody know if the max rpm before rev limiter hit could be altered with BUDS ? On a side not, i didnt see any "over rev" in the display either....strange.

 

:rolleyes_old:

 

if you hit the rev limiter you will have to re-hit the throttle... My summit on long runs will hit the rev limiter eventually, its around 8500.

My 2013 gade at 8K pinned ill do a tad over 100, thats about it as it runs out of gear.

 

I was hitting the limiter one day playing in deep snow quite a bit but my clutching was messed up too. Mine would hit a wall at 8200-8300 or so and take it down to 7400 before I could get back on it. But as I said, it wasn't running right. On a long, long pull I think they will all hit the limiter eventually if they're clutched just right. I'd rather have mine hang at 7900 than blow up at 8200.

 

The XM's will do that on the trails if you hammer it long enough... I changed gears from a 19 top tooth to a 21 tooth thinking i was running out of gear, alls it did was just get more MPH and take a little longer to hit the rev limiter.

The trail sleds shouldn't, my gade i can hammer down for miles and it stays at 8K... after awhile the clutching gets hot and it wont go passed 7500, looking into getting the floating 2ndary to fix that issue.

 

Stock solidt pins. 8000 RPM at #6, 7900-8000 at #3. Installed Straightline clutch pins, 22Grams. Still spinning 7900-8000 RPM at #3

Rave valves, driven clutch or possible stator/flywheel ?? Sensor ? APS, ATS ? Ideas ?

 

Doo doctor plug and play. Google it

 

I just find it strange that i didnt overrev on #6, but still had the same RPM when cliking down to #3 and now, even with 22g at #3 - still rev 8000 rpm.

When i start the sled, it shows 1 bar at the temp instantly. Is this correct ? Driving in normal condition, 4-5 bars

 

Allright Season is starting again. Time to bring up an old post. Still Need some ideas on this strange behavior.

1.Sled will not rev over 8000 rpm on the tach.

2.It revs 8000 in clicker #6 and also in #3 with stock pin weights. At #6 i could feel the engine holding back at 8000 RPM.

3.Installed 22G pin weight, still Rev 8000 at clicker #3

 

After reading the first post I thought I'd give you some info even though you're not asking for it, and has little to do with rev limits.....

On clicker #1 vs clicker #6 the ramp is at a less steep angle so it would stand to reason that on #3 it would be faster mph wise than on clicker #6 as the primary spring has less to overcome on #1 than on #6 because of the lower angle.....whats happening there is the clutch is shifting further out into overdrive so the result is you go faster on the top end at the same rpm as you are essentially in a higher gear....

When you switched to the 22gr pin kit was there also a spring included with the kit or did you just use the one that was in it when you got the sled...?

On clicker #6 right now I bet your sled feels sluggish on the very bottom doesn't it.....comparing it to being on clicker #3 which seems to rev quicker but it doesn't "pull" as hard as clicker #6 once you get going......but letting off the gas and giving it some clicker #6 feels more responsive and backshifts quicker seems to hit a wall.....well that wall is the steeper angle on the ramp because your in clicker #6.....you have a tad too much pin weight, and need to run a bigger finish rate on the primary spring by about 30lbs if you wanna stay with that 22gr.....

OR.....pull out another 2grams....run it the way you were with no other changes and see how it acts and if it's closer to what you were expecting it to be.....

 

Well, i read in other post that the stock pin weight is to little, and other have installed between 20-23 grams with stock spring OR a new spring with higher finish rate.

So, I just bought myself a Straightline adj. pin set and mainly put in 22G at first, and expected to see a significant drop in RPM, BUT still spinning 8000 RPM. This is the head scratcher..and also - why dident i overrev or at least climb over 8000 RPM with stock pin weight at #6. 8000 RPM straight seems to be the magic number for this sled, whatever i throw at it...

 

When you ran the stock pin weight were you running the stock spring too...........are you certain no one else has been in there before you.......when you added the NEW pin kits weight (22gr) did you check it on a scale before you put it in.......

You posted you "read" that the pin weight was too little.....well if it was, that would mean you'd over rev and adding weight would bring rpm's down....BUT if it were either adding weight OR swapping spring to a higher finish.....you do realize that the effect would be opposite of each other as a higher finish would raise rpm.....

What exactly are you trying to accomplish.....and what are you running for a primary clutch spring with these changes.....the same one....and if so what spring is it.....for example I run a 160/380 with 21.5grs pin weight on #4 to get a solid 8150 rpm....everyone is not exactly the same...

 

What i am trying to accomplish, is to find out why i cant rev over 8000 rpm´s. What i have stated earlyer is, with stock spring and pins on clicker #6 i only saw 8000 rpms, while i actually should have seen rev limit in my display. On clicker #3 i still saw 8000 RPM. I bought the Straightline pin set from ebay, and i checked both stock pin weight and the 22G i installed with my small pocket weight. Stock 414 ramps and stock Blue/green spring all the time. Stock gearing. Pin weight is the only thing i have changed. By going up to 22G, according to physics, the rpm should drop, BUT still seeing 8000 RPM on my tach at #3. I bet if i click up to #6 with 22G, i will still only rev to 8000 like i did with stock pin weight. It seems like the sled will not rev past 8000 rpm no matter what, but i also find it strange it still will pull 8000 rpm with 22g on #3

 

Blue/green BRP primary spring....whats that a 130/260.......IMO bump it up to a 130/320 (bl/pl)......if in full gear an you weigh more than 250lbs I'd go with a 160/350 pl/pl......

 

Yes, 130/260 sping. I´m aprox 190 pounds. The setup on my XRS is exactly the same setup - clutch and gearing vise, as on the 2011 Backcountry 800 Etec i previously had. That sled ripped. I was thinking of upping the spring to a 160/290 (purple/blue i think) but i still think this will not solve the 8000 RPM mystery i´m trying to solve.. I would like to see 8100 on my tach. I´m starting to think the computer do not allow the engine to rev past 8000 somehow....this was the initial feeling i got with stock pin weight @ clicker 6 - 8000rpm. The sled is a prototype, so god knows what could have been done to the ecm... :-/

 

The spring itself could just be weak so what started out as a 130/260 is no longer.....but seeing how you have the pin kit now I'd bump to the xxx/320 finish......if you like the way it pulls from the start I'd leave the 130/xxx........for me I tried a 130/xxx and it was a bit sluggish but worked well off trail.....I tried a 160/xxx and it was what I was looking for.......I came from a 230/xxx which was fun but in the deeper off trail stuff I had to remember that...

Have you inspected your clutches to make sure nothing it just worn out and all is moving freely....

 

I did dismantled the drive clutch last season to check setup, cleanup and install more pin weight. I have not touched the driven yet. But spec says it should have the same spring in the driven as my 2011 had. With the 22g pin weight i have now, the sled pulls hard and performs ok. I just dident get the time last season to test the sled or look more into the max 8000 RPM issue. When i bought the sled, it had 1200 km as a demo. I think i have approx 2000 km now.

Was mainly fiddeling with the suspension setup, as it tend to dart like crazy on hard pack conditions in the trails. I will try to shim up the heel of the skis.

 

Yup shimming, and check your toe.....not only from each other but how each is with the track......