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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to me 2015 Renegade X with 12000kms (7500 miles). The is my first sled since a long time and have been working on my 2 motorbikes so ready to learn this sled. I like going thru the maintenance of it all to ensure all is up to the schedule in the BRP manual which I have. Purchased used from a dealer and have the work orders on what was done there. Reverse gears, clips were changed along with bushing and bearing on secondary clutch and new belt. Nee chaincase oil was added. New battery was installed. Sled sat for close to 2 years and I will be doing the following:

-Engine oil change
-Slide change (1/2 worn) and looks to be non dupont type.
-clutch disassembly and inspections/cleaning. Would replacing components in both be drive and driven clutch be due at this mileage?
-track tension alignment after slide change
-Idler inspection (i think I have one rough bearing. Will try to repack first.)
-rear suspension grease
-maybe chaincase oil change? Since it sat for nearly 2 years.
-fuel filter change

Skis, carbides and suspension have been setup with proper sag set. Track has low mileage on it 1.6" ice cobra. I have driven the sled around my neighbourhood with a total of close to 50kms and all works good. Clutch engages and have checked clutch warmth on primary is little, more on secondary but can still keep hand on it no problem. Heat stays at about 2 bars on gauge. Went up to 3 on a little trek on the road to get to more snow.

Just looking for some more advice on this sled to properly maintain it and get it reliable. I am starting to know how it handles and getting use on how to ride it. This is my first 4 stroke and am not use to the engine braking but it is kinda neat really helps in corners and limits brake use and eases front end control. Any input would be greatly valued.
 

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Nice sled. My buddies always tell me my brake light is burned out. Ha! Rarely use the brake. Like the secondary setup with the 4 stroke braking.

If the clutches have not been done I would do them. Springs are cheap. Rollers, o-rings and buttons for the front. Hitorque rollers for the secondary. Jack shaft bearings as well. I might order all of these upfront. You'll need them eventually. When you get all the parts, pull the clutches and replace the springs and bearings. Inspect the other parts and replace as necessary.

Not many surprises on that sled. Not sure you'll find a grease point on the rear suspension. Fresh fluids and clutching. That's about it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks David for the input. I am not aware of any work on the clutches and this is one area which I will check out and inspect/replace. Jackshaft bearing was replaced with the reverse gear fix. There are 2 grease nipples on the rear suspension at the adjustment blocks.
 

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Should be three grease zerks.. 3rd one is on rear upper arm
 

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Sounds like you are well on your way to performing a very thorough inspection. It will be peace of mind when you hit the trail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Should be three grease zerks.. 3rd one is on rear upper arm
Tic I am bot sure where the 3rd one is. I know for sure one is on the adjuster block bar pointing straight down, another is rightbelow it pointing forward, can you point the 3rd location? I guess I will be out in the garage looking at it again.
 

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Cangade,

I picked up my 2012 spring 2 years ago now, but I have completely gone through the sled. here is my thread. You seem to be doing everything you need. I probably went over the top. 3 grease zerks? my 120 only had 2 but now has 10.
 

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Thanks David for the input. I am not aware of any work on the clutches and this is one area which I will check out and inspect/replace. Jackshaft bearing was replaced with the reverse gear fix. There are 2 grease nipples on the rear suspension at the adjustment blocks.
I've bought two new jackshaft bearings over the years and both had no grease in them. My brand new 900t had zero grease in the bearing from the factory. Also do the driveshaft bearing behind the brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Unless you are going to Duponts, leave the slides. New ones will probably wear quickly anyway between the front wheels, but they should stop and maintain.
Going with Duponts for sure. Looking at mine wear pattern seems wavy is this normal? Suppose it is all related to idlers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've bought two new jackshaft bearings over the years and both had no grease in them. My brand new 900t had zero grease in the bearing from the factory. Also do the driveshaft bearing behind the brake.
Will take a look at the jackshaft when I remove the shaft while inspecting the secondary. Good call on the driveshaft.
 

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I bought a needle to go on the end of my grease gun. You can just pull the plate off the backside, pull the seal on the bearing and put a bit of grease in the bearing that way if you don't want to tear everything apart right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I bought a needle to go on the end of my grease gun. You can just pull the plate off the backside, pull the seal on the bearing and put a bit of grease in the bearing that way if you don't want to tear everything apart right now.
That is what I do to my motorcycle bearings simply remove the plastic cover and pack in grease. Many do not have any as noted above.
 

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When I needle grease my bearings I use a marine grease. More resistant to water.
 

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Unless you are going to Duponts, leave the slides. New ones will probably wear quickly anyway between the front wheels, but they should stop and maintain.
Agree with this, leave slides. I've got 8900 miles on original hyfax. I don't see any need for DuPonts on renegade. They wear down but stop. I see most wear in front of front wheels at the bend. I run my track pretty loose.
 

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7,000mi. and counting on current set of BRP slides... I didn't have good luck with the dupont slides
 

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Maybe think about changing the brake fluid too?
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah I can bleed the brake system and get new fluid. That would be an easy enough task. Bled plenty of bike brakes within the last 10 years or so. Will need to check if dot 3 or 4 fluid required. Thanks!
 
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