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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I hope I'm posting in the right place...
Anyway, '97 touring SLE. This bolt will back out on me. Takes about 15 minutes to loosen up after I torqued it to 35 lb/ft. Right side seems to back out quicker..

I believe that bolt holds the front arm of the rear suspension on.. Kinda wondering why it's backing out.
Idea's??
 

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The aluminum sleeve that that bolt threads into rides inside a tube, it is supposed to turn inside the tube, they tend to sieze up and it causes the bolts to loosen as the suspension moves. If left like this it will eventually wollow out the holes in the tunnel............... to fix it you will need to remove the skid and heat, beat, press, swear, yell, holler, or whatever it takes to beat the aluminum free from the steel tube, I've had them so bad that I've had to melt the aluminum out with an oxy torch and just replace it with a new one.
 

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Ha Ha ! You forgot s-c-r-e-a-m !

Once the cross-shaft is on the bench , I've had success putting the outer shaft in a pipe vice 7 drawing the aluminum piece out with a short piece of pipe ( with an ID slightly bigger than the inner shaft ) a stout washer & the bolt .

An overnight soaking in Kerosene helps too .
 

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Sled nut
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came with blue loctic from factory did you put any on ? Iv seen people out anti sieze or grease on them than they fall out
 

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:blink_old: that sound like a interesting prospect.. I guess I better find a warm place to work on it... asap like..

I haven't had the suspension apart, just bought it this summer. don't know what the PO did or didn't do. I will try the blue Loctite tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
anyone have a write up on this?? or is it fairly straight forward? Possible without torches??
 

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Mine snapped on me a couple weeks ago, just replaced these bolts. Remove it, load up the loctite (blue not red as its going into aluminum) and install. Grease the skid, there's a zero for that shaft by the shock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Remove it, load up the loctite (blue not red as its going into aluminum) and install. Grease the skid, there's a zero for that shaft by the shock.
I guess I better read up on this suspension, none of that makes any sense to me.

Thanks for the replies guys.
 

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The picture you have of the bolt, remove that bolt completely, apply lots of blue loctite and re-install the bolt.

Then climb under need the sled, the rear suspension has two shocks...the shock towards the front also has a spring over it. Where that front shock bolts to the top crossmember there is a grease zerk next to it. Grease it.
 

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It's too late for loctite! Or grease!

You have to remove the skid and get the shafts freed up.

The first post after the starter post said it in a nutshell.

The shaft is seized to the tube, this shaft needs to spin freely inside the tube.

Until that is corrected You will continue to have the same problem, and eventually the hole in the tunnel will get oblonged and be useless.

Yes You need to find a warm place to tear it apart.

No rocket science here, just remove the bolts and drop the skid out.

You will be grateful You did, because You'll find all the other suspension pieces that need attention.

Snowmobiles require copious amounts maintenance if you want them to be reliable.

A well maintained machine will last for many years, but a poorly maintained machine will wither away in weeds next to the garage, and end up in the junkyard.
 
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Alright. Got it out, but here's a million dollar question.
Why do akk the other piviot shafts have grease zerks but not this one??
Either way, I drilled and tapped it and stuck in a grease fitting.
 

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Good for you, glad you go it so easy....... I know a lot of people will disagree with me but I have never personally had a need to locktite those bolts as long as the shafts are as they are supposed to be........in fact I put anti-seize on them so I don't have to deal with breaking them off later.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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