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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
If the 897 weights have to much tip weight. You could possibly grind 2-3 grams off the tip. I had to do that to my cfr 1000, had some d&d big dogs and could not pull them on top.
Absolutely. And this is why the 880 test means alot, as you can see the 880 tip weight is less then 897.

Daltons adj are the easiest way to play with tip,body,heel weight, and not destroy my stock Mach ramps.

Dan
 

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boost junkie
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11,816 Posts
the quick change tool was originally made by Goodwin
any real goodwin seller should have them us$80
goodwin also sells the clicker weight set for 900
 

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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
The Daltons are nice and I have run them before myself. But I'm not sure about tossing $ out to run a cheaper belt knowing that Doos have been pretty dam good in regards to belt life over the years. Seems like your just trading $ in regards to the "belt" itself. Getting the adjustability of the ramps will be the bigger benefit in my mind.
Good thing the Mach only costs 18+k...
I think you missed my point. I always run the Ultimax. Never said the 571 was not a long lasting belt or a good belt. I actually think the 571 is a very tough belt. I just have been clutching with the Ultimax ever since Timken bought out Carlisle quite a few yrs ago. I found that belt worked so well on my plagued Winder that I have used them ever since. MY 850 got the ultimax right from get-go. Ultimax uses a softer compound and is shorter, runs ultra clean. Many things I like.

As for the Dalton adj....I always install them on all my turbos, to future proof the clutching, be able to dial in rpms and can do this in minutes any morning before the ride according to temps that day. And now that I have seen the Mach ramp, and experienced the soft engagement and bottom end, i couldn't be more excited for the daltons to arrive.

In the end the cost savings on the belt is not that much, especially when these sleds seem to do well on belt life. So in reality it's less about cost difference and much more about clutching my sled in the manner I have been used to. Ramps are also not a wear item like a belt, always more value there at the end of the day and not just monetary.

Dan
 

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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I would be ditching the doo primary and secondary springs for Dalton's before adding the Dalton weights. I would also take an 1/8" off that spring cup while I was in there. Run it in same conditions/air temp with spring updates only to see if the results are the same and if they are then throw the weights into the mix..
I hear ya...and Dalton springs will certainly be on the docket. Firm believer in one step at a time as the miles go up. Otherwise you end up with a box full of clutch components as many of us know.

Also will be working on spring cup at that point when I split the clutch.

Dan
 

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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Could you get Dano to bring a Train load of Dalton adjustable ramps to Muskoka
LOL, I will say Chris set me up shipped to Muskoka from him in USA. Guys think they are costly and sure they are not cheap, but Chris hooked me up and is my go-to guy when I need the stuff I want fast!

Dan
 

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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Ran my new 900R X yesterday for first time. 1.25 IR, not studded yet, cleaned clutches(scotch brite), tightened belt and track. Rode it easy for first 30 miles to break in belt and sliders. First time I wacked it WOT I see 8000 and holds at 7900. That was at around 50 miles on sled. Every time afterward I pinned it same thing, 8000 then hold at 7900. Never held it WOT for more than 5 seconds or so and recorded 117 on the dream-o-meter.
Love it! This is exactly how Dano's revs!

And you have the "single ply" track I assume? I have been thinking alot about tracks, as this is another difference in Dano and My Sled....lighter single ply, no studs making more rpms then heavier 2ply.

Definitely will be interesting when I do my studding, likely lose more rpms.

Dan
 

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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
For comparison my buddies 900r xrs holds 8000 rpms when I rode it for over 1200' or so. He also said it was at 8000 all weekend for him. His has a 1.5" ice ripper and only saw 106 on gauge.
This seems to be the theme....more NON MACHS revving good, While Mach are low. And why this thread means alot in my testing, ramps are the difference, and also need to state what track the NON MACHS are running, if single ply this could be helping them.

Dan
 

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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I wonder if the guys seeing 7900-8000 took their belt off, cleaned clutches, and put a new belt on if it still turns the 7900-8000. I'm wondering how many guys have a belt soaked in shipping oil and are getting a few more rpms.
Its not a belt issue....I will say both our deflection was very low, and I adjusted mine first and still revved low, Danos revved perfect even with loose deflection.

Belts looks clean, perfect. Not a black mark anywhere on sheaves either.

Dan
 

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35 Posts
Only got to run one day on trail, and they are thin here. So not really any moguls. I did get to hit some holes here and there and at this early juncture I feel the Smart Shox may be the best thing I have ever experienced to date. I used to constantly be off my sled to adjust compression, where now I just flip switch. I went back and forth from medium to firmest alot, and the best way to describe it is firm makes the sled feel incredibly "connected" to the trail, sorta like a high end sports car does. And I hit some serious holes with that in firmest mode and there is pretty much no way I will ever bottom that out, and I am full soft on springs and all blocks. Medium mode tends to feel much more "disconnected" from the trail, what I would describe as the "cadillac" feel. It does still keep sled flat in corners even in softer mode however I prefer the stiffest mode for when really riding hard.

I would say the SS are the high point in my early ownership. Obviously power has 100% of my attention right now and very little sleep, thanks BRP!

Dan
I totally agree that the SS are my fav, I am waiting on the xrs 850 with SS at dealer wtithout SS chip...I think that will be my go to trail sled.Still like the mach....i was playing with different scenarios on SS, that might be counter intuitive...on a perfectly groomed trail I would put SS in sport +, and this thing would rail, no ski lift in corner....in the moguls I like sport (mid of SS) gives some ability to rebound and not get pushed into top of next mogul. and for little washboard moguls the comfort mode is sweet....
 

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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Hey Dan, is there anywhere in Ontario to purchase these tools for the privet?? I'm located in muskoka area. This tool looks pretty slick! Thanks for all your research and posts on Dootalk & totally Yamaha 👍 great stuff!
IMO just email chris at c&t.....he will ship to canada much cheaper then most think.

Email here: [email protected]

Dan
 

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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
the quick change tool was originally made by Goodwin
any real goodwin seller should have them us$80
goodwin also sells the clicker weight set for 900

Not sure if Goodwin is a DT sponsor?
And I would personally never use clickers for the 900r.

I do know Chris at C&T has been a long time DT sponsor and has set me up with anything I order, be it when I'm in NY or here in Muskoka Canada, he gets my email request and replies right away and things get to me fast.

Dan
 

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OCD Sledhead
Mach Z 900R
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9,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
I totally agree that the SS are my fav, I am waiting on the xrs 850 with SS at dealer wtithout SS chip...I think that will be my go to trail sled.Still like the mach....i was playing with different scenarios on SS, that might be counter intuitive...on a perfectly groomed trail I would put SS in sport +, and this thing would rail, no ski lift in corner....in the moguls I like sport (mid of SS) gives some ability to rebound and not get pushed into top of next mogul. and for little washboard moguls the comfort mode is sweet....
I look forward to our trails opening and really getting some real miles on the SS system! If things dont open soon locally will be heading north for sure. We have ice now though and lots of lakes so at least can get some break in miles on.

Dan
 

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492 Posts
Absolutely could be springs, but all else is identical on these two sled's clutching. Ramps are a quick change without the need to remove clutch and split open and change spring.

I will certainly dive deeper into clutching soon enough, this was a simple fast test to rule out that my mach is far below other sleds. This simple test with the 880 ramps tells me my mach is right where others are for the most part with this many miles in ticker.

Dan
Keep on Digging , My Machz still hasn’t arrived to test anything , I do think the Dalton ramps and weights are the best way to fine tune the clutch along with a good spring . Have you cut the 1/8 to 1/4 off of the spring cup yet? Is there any alinement issues from the primary to the secondary. I have most of the tools to play with the clutches but, No alignment tool or measurements To check for miss alinement.
Thanks for all your updates Rocker Dan.
 

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boost junkie
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11,816 Posts
the Grip N Rip Racing Products pdrive alignment tool is complex and seems to work sweet
mine only needed one shim behind the bearing. their video helps understand how to use it
 
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Thats not really Chris tool, that is the Goodwin tool that Chris sells I assume. I would be interested in a higher finish, Gboost belt and grind a little weight off the tip. Thanks for sharing.
 

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I don't think it is a ramp issue on the Mach. My 00006 serial number Mach pulls 7900, pulls hard out of the hole or a role on and or using launch out of the hole. 95mph on dragy in 660. All the aforentioned data was with 3 miles on the clock so not a break in issue either. Very simular performance to my old stage 2 PEFI sled.

Do your diligence to ensure no boost leaks and ensure belt deflection is tight and not the loose nonsense they recommend in the manual to ensure no issues with electronic reverse engagement. Other than that, keep in mind BRP has many layers of safeties in the ecu for intake Temps etc etc that can pull power and drag down rpm so if your doing repeated wot runs or extended runs or driving in mild conditions your rpm will be down because of heat soak etc. These 900's are the most sensitive sled I have ever owned with regards to ambient temp and heat soak fast at WOT.

Hope this helps...

BJK
 

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I don't think it is a ramp issue on the Mach. My 00006 serial number Mach pulls 7900, pulls hard out of the hole or a role on and or using launch out of the hole. 95mph on dragy in 660. All the aforentioned data was with 3 miles on the clock so not a break in issue either. Very simular performance to my old stage 2 PEFI sled.

Do your diligence to ensure no boost leaks and ensure belt deflection is tight and not the loose nonsense they recommend in the manual to ensure no issues with electronic reverse engagement. Other than that, keep in mind BRP has many layers of safeties in the ecu for intake Temps etc etc that can pull power and drag down rpm so if your doing repeated wot runs or extended runs or driving in mild conditions your rpm will be down because of heat soak etc. These 900's are the most sensitive sled I have ever owned with regards to ambient temp and heat soak fast at WOT.

Hope this helps...

BJK
Did your dealer tell you this or is it I the owners manual. This is disappointing .
 

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SkiDoo Guru
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21,262 Posts
I don't think it is a ramp issue on the Mach. My 00006 serial number Mach pulls 7900, pulls hard out of the hole or a role on and or using launch out of the hole. 95mph on dragy in 660. All the aforentioned data was with 3 miles on the clock so not a break in issue either. Very simular performance to my old stage 2 PEFI sled.

Do your diligence to ensure no boost leaks and ensure belt deflection is tight and not the loose nonsense they recommend in the manual to ensure no issues with electronic reverse engagement. Other than that, keep in mind BRP has many layers of safeties in the ecu for intake Temps etc etc that can pull power and drag down rpm so if your doing repeated wot runs or extended runs or driving in mild conditions your rpm will be down because of heat soak etc. These 900's are the most sensitive sled I have ever owned with regards to ambient temp and heat soak fast at WOT.

Hope this helps...

BJK
I'm with you on the heat issue I just came back from northern Maine 31 below every morning there mostly seen was 15 18 below during the day and the thing was pulling RPM with my setup in it
 
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