Yes. Anti seize is not a bad thing. 90 ft lbs should be just right. Typically you can get by with a little less torque with anti seize because if it's lubricating properties 90 ft lbs wet will be more like 100 ft lbs dry when you tighten it down.

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You went in the wrong direction with that.. Wet/lubed/antisiezed threads turn easier(less friction) allowing the actual torque to require less effort to achieve.

 

Typically you wouldn't use anti-seize on any fastener that is to be torqued to spec. Unless otherwise stated torque numbers are for dry threads - the anti-seize changes the torque coefficient on the threads so it can throw off your numbers when torquing down a lug nut. Some say you can multiply your dry torque by 70% to get the lubricated thread torque number but there are other factors such as amount of anti-seize used. I've never used anti-seize on lug nuts and it's never been a problem for removal.

 

Typically you wouldn't use anti-seize on any fastener that is to be torqued to spec. Unless otherwise stated torque numbers are for dry threads - the anti-seize changes the torque coefficient on the threads so it can throw off your numbers when torquing down a lug nut. Some say you can multiply your dry torque by 70% to get the lubricated thread torque number but there are other factors such as amount of anti-seize used. I've never used anti-seize on lug nuts and it's never been a problem for removal.

Interesting reading. I never knew that.

Thanks for sharing.

Don~

 

Ive used a small amount of white grease on the studs and torqued to 80 ft lbs. Have never had any issues. Just check the torque once in awhile to make sure all is well while I check tire pressures. I take it all apart in the spring to clean and lube everything after the season.

 

Anti seize will not be a problem. 90 ft lbs is fine. Typical car truck trailer lug nut torque is 100 ft lbs. at this torque it won't be too much and they won't back off. Anti seize is used on many torqued fasteners. Yes you have to consider wet torque vs dry when clamping force is critical. For a wheel it's not. You just don't want them coming loose. In this case anti seize will not cause a problem and will possible prevent a headache later.

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Have used it for many years on all our snow trailers without issue after not being able to get a flat off on a single axle trailer. SALT !!! :angry:

 

I've been putting anti-seize on both the studs of my boat trailer and on the snowmobile trailer and have not had any issues at all with doing so for all these years.

I do give them right around 100 ft lbs or just under as I know that the lube will have us over-torquing the nuts if we don't back off a bit off the normal(dry) torque value.

It sure makes getting any lug nut off easy.

 

Antiseize on them for sure. I also put stainless capped lug nuts on all my trailers. Never any rusted lug nuts now.

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Always a dab of grease on the studs. Likely 2 or 3 years between pulling a wheel. Never a problem.

 

I pull my wheels every year, roll the hubs, grease, look over the tires, and give the studs a spray n wipe of anti corrode before re-torque.

Replacing trailer tires in the winter on the road just plain sucks, I do all I can to avoid it, but be ready for it.

 

I use engine oil and my regular oil can, lube all studs/bolts regardless if it's on sled/boat trailers or on any of the cars. Usually clean the threads before putting the wheel on using a wire brush too. Being able to get a punctured tire off late at night in the pouring rain without the hassle of seizing threads and/or nuts corroded to the stud is worth a lot.

Don't make a hen of a feather, fastening wheels is not rocket science, just tighten the bolts. Especially with steel wheels the "you're ok-window" is quite large.

Torque wrenches are good, more to get the nuts equally torqued than getting it exactly in the decimal to correct torque. You will not have wheels falling off for getting a few Nm off spec!! (or crocodile feet per square imaginary area or whatever unit you prefer )

Fit the wheel, throw a suitable tool on the passenger floor so you see and remember to check tightness after 20-60km, then return tool to it's correct place and don't worry!

And....: DON'T USE A HIGH POWER IMPACT GUN TO FIT YOUR WHEELS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. (Probably the best reason for people to use a torque wrench is not to over tighten!)

 

I use engine oil and my regular oil can, lube all studs/bolts regardless if it's on sled/boat trailers or on any of the cars. Usually clean the threads before putting the wheel on using a wire brush too. Being able to get a punctured tire off late at night in the pouring rain without the hassle of seizing threads and/or nuts corroded to the stud is worth a lot.

Don't make a hen of a feather, fastening wheels is not rocket science, just tighten the bolts. Especially with steel wheels the "you're ok-window" is quite large.

Torque wrenches are good, more to get the nuts equally torqued than getting it exactly in the decimal to correct torque. You will not have wheels falling off for getting a few Nm off spec!! (or crocodile feet per square imaginary area or whatever unit you prefer )
Fit the wheel, throw a suitable tool on the passenger floor so you see and remember to check tightness after 20-60km, then return tool to it's correct place and don't worry!

And....: DON'T USE A HIGH POWER IMPACT GUN TO FIT YOUR WHEELS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. (Probably the best reason for people to use a torque wrench is not to over tighten!)

Agreed 100%

It's absolutely possible to stretch threads from over tightening, such as when using a strong impact gun.

 

Been using anti seize on lug nuts for decades and no issues.

 

I use Mag Wheel lug nuts. They cover the entire thread and are chrome plated. No rust. Just $2.50 or so each.

 

I use anti seize on threads and also face of hub to prevent wheel from freezing to hub. No issues and been doing it for close to 40 years.

 

I use anti seize on threads and also face of hub to prevent wheel from freezing to hub. No issues and been doing it for close to 40 years.

I was wondering if I should put a little there as well!!

 

I always add a little bearing grease to each lug nut and on the face of the hub as well. No issues so far.

I also torque the nuts to 90-95 ft lbs min.

 

I use anti-seize on almost all of my wheel studs, but...

Superair05 is correct. Typically torque values are given as dry torque, wet torque is different.

More importantly, IMO, is the type of anti-seize you use. For years most (all?) anti-seize was copper based. If you have any do yourself a favor and throw the crap out. Copper based anti-seize is one of the best thread lockers ever invented.

The next generation anti-seize was nickel based. Excellent product, however nickel is considered a heavy metal so some places started regulating it.(started in Europe).

The next generation anti-seize was ceramic based. Still my favorite today. Basically impervious to heat and corrosion. Won't gaul on stainless steel. Its not the lowest priced can you'll ever buy, it will be the best can you ever buy.

Recently a lot of graphite based anti-seize have hit the market. Lower priced the ceramic based, seems to work quite well. If money matters this isn't a bad choice.

IMO copper is worse than no anti-seize, anything else is better than nothing.

Your opinion may be different, and thats OK too.

 

Not doubting your experience with Copper..But I believe it's in the 1200 manual to use copper based anti seize with the spark plugs. I use a anti seize called CU 800 from Wurth. Special German stuff. I probably paid $25 or so for the tube.

 

If you are going to use an impact gun, get some torque sticks. They are cheap

Ps. I'd always heard wet torque is more consistent than dry torque.

 

Hey groo---What are torque sticks ?

Thanks

Don~

 

Hey groo---What are torque sticks ?

Thanks

Don~

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https://www.amazon.ca/Astro-Pneumatic-78810-10-Piece-Extension/dp/B007K92N7M

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Thanks for the link JLR82.

Don~

 

Anti-seize here also :righton

 

Not doubting your experience with Copper..But I believe it's in the 1200 manual to use copper based anti seize with the spark plugs. I use a anti seize called CU 800 from Wurth. Special German stuff. I probably paid $25 or so for the tube.

I see CU800 is copper with Graphite. Maybe the graphite helps the copper???

As a side note, I think you'll find Wurth doesn't make anything, they re-lable stuff they buy. I'm sure you could find a like product for less $$$.

In the 1200, if it was me I'd skip the instructions on that one and use something that won't weld itself like copper tends to.