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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,
I have a pieced together wiring harness on my Skandic and haven't been able to track down the problem of why I have no power to lights (I do have power coming from the lighting coil).
I'm hoping to go on a rip Monday - what do you think of just temporarily running the power from the coil straight to the voltage regulator and then to the headlights/tail light - ie no hi/low beam switch etc.
I'm thinking that might be the fastest way to get some lights up and running until I can find the short.
Thanks
 

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Should work just fine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't been able to get out to the garage to work on the sled yet but I've got a wiring diagram and just realised I don't really know what I'm doing here.

On the diagram there is a yellow wire and yellow/black wire coming from the lighting coil - is one wire a ground and one the power or are they both power wires coming off the coil?

Thanks.
 

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The yellow wire is used as the power and the yellow/black is used as ground on the chassis so then anywhere on the chassis is ground.

Run the yellow to all bulbs. The other side of the bulbs go to ground.

Remember the base of the regulator needs to be grounded in order to work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok - I've got power to the all bulbs now. I didn't start sled, just pulled it over hard with the plugs out (my 4 year olds bedroom is next to garage).
Bulb is really dim - dimmer than my other sleds when only pulled over. I hope the lighting coil is alright. I had ran a utility LED fixture of it for about 2 minutes last week without the regulator (straight off the yellow wire and a ground to the frame. The fixture burned out and I had figured it fried from the combination of no regulator and AC current but now I'm worried I may have hurt the coil. The fixture was rated for up to 24 volts DC I believe.
I'll have to try it in the morning when I can fire the engine and maybe get a meter on it too - diagram says it suppose to put out 160 watts - I'm assuming that will be somewhere around 14-16 volts coming out of the coil so somewhere around 10-12 amps - does that sound right?
 

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I'm thinking 14-16 volts would be with regulator. Unregulated could be above 20 volts. You'll see it go up pretty high with the meter when you rev the engine.
 

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And as for the current, a circuit will only draw the current it requires up to the max available, so hard to say what your bulbs will draw, should not be the full 160 watts. But yeah power = v*i so 160 watts = about 14 volts * 11 Amps
 

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Resurrecting this thread because I never really got the problem solved - haven't done much sledding in the last year or so.

Anyhow - if I run straight of the coil to the bulb (with ground run through the regulator - wires just clipped to the bulb terminals) I get a strong light. When I plug everything in as it should be normally I get either a dim light or sometimes no light at all.

So the question is where is the problem most likely to be - in the dimmer switch, in the bulb plug or a short in the wiring somewhere?

Would there be any long term harm in just bypassing the dimmer switch and running new wires to everything?
I'm pulling my hair out looking at wiring diagrams trying to figure out if I'd loose tail/break lights if I bypassed the dimmer switch.

Thanks.
 

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Resurrecting this thread because I never really got the problem solved - haven't done much sledding in the last year or so.

So the question is where is the problem most likely to be - in the dimmer switch, in the bulb plug or a short in the wiring somewhere?
I would check out the dimmer switch first.

Unplug it to isolate and test with a continuity light. It has 3-wires and only two make connection at a time. Change the switch position and the the other wire should have connection.

Test light should be either on or off, not dim or flickering.
 

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+1 for dimmer switch // another thing I've seen happen is the little electrical contacts slide back in the connector that plugs into the head lamp assembly from the weight of the cables, possible you are just not making a good contact when you plug that in, just throwing out ideas ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I haven't been able to pick up a new dimmer switch yet - I think I might have a used one I'm a box somewhere - but in the mean time I'm trying to figure out how the voltage regulator works.

I origially thought only the ground ran through the regulator and it acted like a resistor to limit voltage. Now that I'm looking at the wiring diagram it looks like both the positive and negative run through the regulator.

If I just run the power straight off the lighting coil and all the grounds through the regulator does that become a regulated/protected circuit?

I've got foggy memories of an basic electric course I took in school 30 years ago talking about circuits in series or in parallel....
 

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If I just run the power straight off the lighting coil and all the grounds through the regulator does that become a regulated/protected circuit?

I've got foggy memories of an basic electric course I took in school 30 years ago talking about circuits in series or in parallel....
The regulator is connected to the lighting circuit in parallel.

As long as the regulator's yellow (live) wire is spliced into the wire from the lighting coil

+

all grounds return to the regulator's ground (or base of regulator if so equipped) all should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok. That's what I think I've got happening now. I have a wire going from the yellow off the coil to the regulator and spliced to that wire another one going to the bulb (tied both high and low beam circuits together.

I then have a wire going from the yellow/black coming off the coil to base plate of the regulator and spliced to that a ground going to the bulb. Dimmer switch is completely removed from the circuit but the bulb is still not very bright. It's a cheap Kimpex regulator - is it possible the regulator is regulating "too much". When I wire the bulb in directly without the regulator it's plenty bright so I'm not too worried about the coil being bad.

Ive got half a mind to just put a fuse in line to protect the bulb and just changed fuses instead of bulbs lol.
The regulator is connected to the lighting circuit in parallel.
As long as the regulator's yellow (live) wire is spliced into the wire from the lighting coil
+
all grounds return to the regulator's ground (or base of regulator if so equipped) all should be fine.
 

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tied both high and low beam circuits together.
I don't think you can do this.

One beam at a time but not both as you are attempting to light both beams at the same time and the result is a system overload and a dim light.
 
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