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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright .. so far I have removed all under hood foam and man is that stuff sticky. Get some goo gone or WD40 you`ll need it.

Next up my old CVT clutch cover mod as I am running a PB80 which has no fins therefore is not moving any air like the edrive does. Cover Mod link.. http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/475462-cvt-clutch-cover-mod/

After that I am going to open up the front nose plastic just below the hood line to allow more in. Just below the hood you can see two slots. I plan on making them slightly larger.

Now to get the air out I am looking at either installing doo`s vents (not sure how many yet) at the rear and top side of the panels or using the template kit that Grip N Rip offers for drilling the backside of the panels out. It GnR template looks like it will be the most effective for getting heat out. http://www.gripnripracing.com/index.php?id_product=161&controller=product

Anybody else have some good ideas on venting the XS or know of any good kits..
 

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The XR has those massive vents right in the hood panel. The XS is solid there so I'm thinking extra venting may be necessary for those who run hard. It's amazing how much heat the 1200 produces compared to an e-tec.
 

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Drilling the holes near your knees works best to evacuate the hot air. When I was playing in powder all the vents I installed would pack full of snow... But the holes stay clear, or if they do get covered you just simply wipe them clear.

Frog skinz near the top of the sled work good too, to let the heat naturally escape when you stop.

And I really like the shock tower vents from xtremeairvents

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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OCD Sledhead
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i just ordered some vents today.....posted them in my build thread.

Im pretty anal about fit n finish and looks ect....but I would like to keep temps down too.

Ive decided the frogskins which are prefilter, flow alot less then a mesh type. So IMO out front you want mesh type for more flow, but it will allow more snow ingestion too. So on clutch side I will keep the prefilter in that forward vent.

So i got two side vents forward facing from RC vents here: http://www.jcscustomvents.com/catalog/i153.html

as for rear vents to evacuate heat, I think the prefilter frogskins will work ok back there, and for me they look much better and stick well to the PAINTED cowl....so Im going to try to put two right on the wing on each side above knees...cause Im an active rider and do not want my knees rubbing on vents down on the plastic section of panels.

see this http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1149097-rockerdans-1200x-build-thread-lots-of-technical-info-on-the-new/?p=13833417

Dan
 

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I always use vents of some sort. Breaking trail or warmer outside temps the heat under the hood is to high for my liking. I like to keep the engine area as cool as possible.
 

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What about a hood vent from a XR on the top of the clutch panel just like the exhaust side of the XS has a vent. Seems that covered vents like frog skins don't let air pass as easily as open vents do and the top of that panel is pretty snow free.
 

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Ukranian Mafia
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Center panel is the same...look at R&Ms website for the center hood vent...nice piece...need vents up high and to the rear if your going to accomplish anything worth doing IMO. When I have my hands on a XS I have a friend who would like vents and am going to try to 3d print them this time
 

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OCD Sledhead
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I am going to put brp vents on the back part of the upper flares. Perfect amount of room for 2 vents per side. I figure the air coming over the flare should help suck air out as well.
That is similar to what Im doing.....top rear of flares, no worry of knee hitting there either.

Dan
 

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That is similar to what Im doing.....top rear of flares, no worry of knee hitting there either.

Dan
Some pics of the finished product would be nice from you guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here are some pictures. You can definitely feel heat coming out of them. I have 3 in each panel so far. To bad they weren't adjustable like car vents I could direct them towards me.. ..

Hood Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper

Automotive design Gadget Audio equipment Aircraft Event
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Drill two holes one 1 3/4 and one 19/64 which is used for the locking pin which uses a metal press fit type washer same types used on windshields. The other side has a wedge built into it so when installing them they go in on an angle. Put it this way they won't come out that's for sure.
 
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