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Ok. Here's a way to do this witout special tools. It works well on the left side jackshaft (QRS) and driveshaft (Brake) bearings that are difficult to remove.

First, grind off the old bearing with a hand disc grinder. BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNICK THE JACKSHAFT when you are getting to the bottom of the inner race. Take your time, stop early, and split the inner race with a cold chisel when you are about through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Next use some emery cloth and clean up the bearing surface on the shaft. Then put the shaft in the freezer for a few hours.

Heat your new bearing with a hair dryer until it is hot to handle (but dont melt the seals!)

Set up a "press" as in the photo below:
 

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This "******* press" is a 20" piece of 1.5 inch I.D. solid core pvc drain pipe. It fits snug on the shaft and presses on the inner race only.

The hot (expanded) bearing will go on the cold (contracted) shaft with a couple firm blows on top from a heavy mallet. Make sure to have wood above the pvc (wear safety goggles!), and wood below the clutch to avoid damage to the shaft end.

And I always pop the seal off a new bearing and pack in more grease as well. It seems that they never put enough grease in these bearings from the manufacturer! !
 

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Ok. Here's a way to do this witout special tools.

First, grind off the old bearing with a hand disc grinder. BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNICK THE JACKSHAFT when you are getting to the bottom of the inner race. Take your time, stop early, and split the inner race with a cold chisel when you are about through.
How many miles did you have that you are changing the bearing? Curious what made you change it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How many miles did you have that you are changing the bearing? Curious what made you change it.
Alot of people post that this bearing goes "dry" sometime after about 4000 miles. Smart people will pop the seal and repack it routinely before it goes dry. They say that if you keep it packed, it'll last virtually forever. In my case (lacking smartness! ) I found mine dry and running rough when spinning it by hand, so had to replace at about 3000 miles.
 

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Alot of people post that this bearing goes "dry" sometime after about 4000 miles. Smart people will pop the seal and repack it routinely before it goes dry. They say that if you keep it packed, it'll last virtually forever. In my case (lacking smartness! ) I found mine dry and running rough when spinning it by hand, so had to replace at about 3000 miles.
My 2010 jack shaft bearing was dry and noisy at 3000 too! changed it out . This summer ill tear it apart and add grease if needed its crazy some go 10,000 and some do not
 

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Good time to add a 3mil shim ?
 

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Ok. Here's a way to do this witout special tools.

First, grind off the old bearing with a hand disc grinder. BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNICK THE JACKSHAFT when you are getting to the bottom of the inner race. Take your time, stop early, and split the inner race with a cold chisel when you are about through.
. Did this and it worked great. Thanks!

Just be careful- when I hit the inner bearing race with a chisel to split it after grinding close to the shaft, a piece of steel flew off- so wear safety glasses !
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
BTW this works great on that pesky brake side driveshaft bearing as well. That bugger can be hard to remove with the driver being so close.
 

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Same way I did mine, 2017 g4 @ 10k miles. Bearings still felt good by the way
 

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Great job. Perfect example of someone using their head to get the job done! Thanks for posting.
 
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