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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is probably a stupid question, but how is the bearing removed from the shaft? Is it pressed on with a slight interference fit. Can I just tap it off with a hammer? I have the jack shaft and secondary sitting on my bench, I'm going to replace the spring and rollers so figured I should do the bearing as well. The bearing is not bad but certainly not like new. Sled is a 2011 MXZ 1200.
Thanks.
 

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The bearing needs to be pressed off and on. If you are going to cut it off just be careful so you don't damage your jackshaft.

C&T Powersports makes the puller for the bearing. You can also press it on with the tool as well. Just need to buy the threaded rod as it doesn't come with that. I'd recommend buying this if you want to do it yourself or just bring it to a local dealer to have them replace the bearing.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. I could cut it off but I'll get the bearing first, then decide how I'm going to remove it. Looks like it would be easy to make that tool. I probably have some aluminum or steel plate that I can use. And the threaded rod would be cheap enough.
 

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If you have a hydraulic press you can press it on and off, just get creative with your set up, the puller also works well to, remove it with a impact gun.
 

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The tool for pulling it off works well, but as mentioned many have cut them off with ease. Take your time with the zip disc and it will come off. The bearing races are so hard that they are brittle and if you get 99% through and then give it a hit with a punch and hammer it will break.
As for the install of the new bearing.....I cool the shaft in the freezer or outside (if it’s the right season!) for 15-20 minutes and warm the bearing in the oven at 200F. I then take a piece of 1.5” ABS pipe (approx. 20” long) as it’s the same size as the inner race on a 6008 bearing. Slip the bearing on the jackshaft, then place the pipe on the shaft and hit the top of the pipe until you feel the bearing seat on the lip of the shaft.
The entire time I am hitting the pipe the jackshaft is standing vertical on my shop floor and I have a piece of wood/rubber on the concrete slab to avoid damaging the shaft. Did I mention that my wife usually helps me and she is steading the shaft while I’m hitting the bearing in place. She’s a keeper!
 

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My son had his jackshaft bearing replaced (just for maintenance) last rear and the dealer charged him $20 plus the price of the bearing. We just upgraded his track to a 1.75 Hurricane, which we did ourselves. While the drive axle was out he had the bearing replaced (again for maintenance) and they charged him only for the price of the bearing. I guess it depends on the price of the puller or to make vs the cost for having someone else doing it.

On a side note, I thought that Chris (C&T Powersports) no longer had the puller available (could be wrong). Guess it's up to everyone to decided for themselves.
 

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Repackaging is always an option but for the cost of the bearing my preference is to replace. Overpacking the bearing can be as detrimental on bearing life as running it dry, just something to be cautious of.
 

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Repackaging is always an option but for the cost of the bearing my preference is to replace. Overpacking the bearing can be as detrimental on bearing life as running it dry, just something to be cautious of.
What percentage of fill is over packing? What does over packing cause that is detrimental to the bearing ? Besides possibly blowing the seals out, what else.
 

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The two biggest concerns with overpacking is that the bearing can run hotter and secondaly ......as you mentioned the seals can pop out.
If you pop the seal on a new bearing you'd be shocked how little grease is considere spec. I know that I was.
 
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