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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just purchased BRP reman crank due to rod brg failure and need to know how much Isoflex to purchase and do I pack the inside face of the pto seal or not. I cleaned the counterbalance bearings and assume I pack those bearings and spread some on the gear teeth. What's the proper procedure for greasing?
 

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Make sure the use the same grease that was used to put together the BRP crank. The Shop Manual calls for 40 mL on the counterbalance shaft gear, and 5 mL (.2 on) on drive gear, which is a total of 45 mL. But I have also hear of more grease being used. While one uses 60 mL per side, another goes to 100 mL. I cannot say what is the best quantity, but I do know if too much is applied it will begin to escape through the vent in the crankshaft and exist into the crank chambers in between the crank webs.

What the Shop Manual doesn't say is how much of that quantity should be added through the filling nipples. The most important part during assembly is to make sure that no grease spreads on the crankcase mating surface, so how can one add 45 to 60 mL of grease without doing this??? My guess is they spread as much as they can during assembly, then add the remaining quantity through the nipples.

Please use the correct grease which was changed in 2006, even though the part number stayed the same. Dow Corning 111 (Molykote) is also a must for this engine. The inside lip of the PTO and MAG side seals also need a coat of Petamo. I admit not having Petamo for my last build, but it will soon be part of my engine rebuild kit. Whatever you use as a base gasket sealant, it needs to hold 5 lbs of pressure in base.

Be very careful around the caps and seals where they meet with the crankcase mating surfaces, as well as the gears. Any grease contaminating/spreading onto the mating surfaces will cause a leak down low and all bets are off.

I have used Sleeve Retainer after seeing bearing chatter and wear on the bores on a BRP short block, but the main cause for this is engine overheat. So if there is no wear on the cranks bores, and engine stays cool like it should, there should not be any problems. Still I think it is best to measure the interference fit provided by the crankcase bores.

I will always try to get my parts from BRP to get genuine parts, but there are shops that do good work. In Quebec we have a Millennium Technologies certified shop located in East Broughton, that are doing excellent work with top notch service. D.G. Usimécanique

Isoflex grease 500 g NB 5051 (P/N 420 898 351)

Petamo grease GHY133N for inner lip of PTO and MAG seals (P/N 420 899 271)
Dow Corning 111 grease (Molykote), 150 g tube, and used for rubber seals and most bolts (P/N 413 707 000)

Loctite 5910 Base gasket sealant (P/N 293 800 081)

Loctite 243 (P/N 293 800 060)
Loctite 648 (P/N 413 711 400)
 

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About packing the inside face of the pto seal, I didn't find anything in the Shop Manual. I didn't bother but I don't see how it can hurt unless some excess contaminates any surface that is meant to be sealed.
 

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I used 50ml per side, not including the grease I used to pack the countershaft bearings. You can get it all in the cavity pretty easily if you put the grease in a small bowl and spoon it in with a piece of popsicle stick, and positioning the countershaft weights at vertical will give you adequate room...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
wwracer, are those holes i see machined into all the outer races, how'd you do that without creating a burr inside or getting chips inside?
 

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wwracer, are those holes i see machined into all the outer races, how'd you do that without creating a burr inside or getting chips inside?
My guess is that those are droplets of bearing retainer compound/LocTite? Could be wrong.
 

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My guess is that those are droplets of bearing retainer compound/LocTite? Could be wrong.
We have a winner.... :buddies: Stud and bearing mount.....
 

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The crap I bought from Permatex would never hold in one spot like that. I will miss that old girl.
 
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