I am not familiar with that particular sled but personally I would never ride a studded sled without tunnel protectors. Maybe do it yourself as a summer project?

 

$75 for protectors; $600 to install, and $3,100 for the coolers, the protectors and the labor. Take your pick.

On my LT, the tunnel already has an extrusion that you slide the protectors on. The hard part is getting them

past the snow flap. Either remove and reinstall the flap; or drill round holes with a hole saw.

 

A few things to consider, and you are looking for a "yes or no" answer to a "well maybe" question.

I live in Bethel, AK and frequently travel on ice as well, I have a 2017 expy sport with the same track. I have used the Kold Kutters and did not like them, I kept losing them and felt they did not provide the traction I needed. I switched to the "INS products, Ice Masters" (very happy). I have lost only 1 in 3 years and they give great traction.

I studded just the outer (left and right) sections of the track and did NOT add a tunnel protector. I also have friends that studded the left, right, and center sections and did add a tunnel protectors. When I look under my sled I have a few scratches on the underside but nowhere near to the cooling fins. When looking at the fully studded machines with tunnel protector I see the same thing, a few scratches ALL the way across.

So, a mix of answers; if you are going to stud only the outer sections, you can probably get away without a tunnel protector. If you are studding the whole track, put a protector on.

For $600 labor, I can eff up a lot and still come out way ahead.

https://carbidetractionproducts.com/snowmobile-studs/icemasters/

 

When you ride it and all is well, you didn't need them. When your stuck out on the tundra in January with a hole in the exchanger, chances are you needed the protectors.
Your choice. Get the proper track bit, a drill and drill the holes. Torque each nut on the stud and ride it. Retorque studs after first ride and end of season.

 

A few things to consider, and you are looking for a "yes or no" answer to a "well maybe" question.

I live in Bethel, AK and frequently travel on ice as well, I have a 2017 expy sport with the same track. I have used the Kold Kutters and did not like them, I kept losing them and felt they did not provide the traction I needed. I switched to the "INS products, Ice Masters" (very happy). I have lost only 1 in 3 years and they give great traction.

I studded just the outer (left and right) sections of the track and did NOT add a tunnel protector. I also have friends that studded the left, right, and center sections and did add a tunnel protectors. When I look under my sled I have a few scratches on the underside but nowhere near to the cooling fins. When looking at the fully studded machines with tunnel protector I see the same thing, a few scratches ALL the way across.

So, a mix of answers; if you are going to stud only the outer sections, you can probably get away without a tunnel protector. If you are studding the whole track, put a protector on.

For $600 labor, I can eff up a lot and still come out way ahead.

https://carbidetractionproducts.com/snowmobile-studs/icemasters/

So your point is it will scratch with or without them overtime, i might just remove the center screws for piece of mind and keep the left and right ones, after all i just need the traction on glare ice when im ice fishing, thats my main concern, i think just keeping the left and rights will be more then enough for me to get a better grip. And it will improve the chances for not puncturing the cooling fins if i bottom out right?

 

On the G4 sleds isn't the cooler integrated into the tunnel?That means no external cooler and no slots for protectors.I have a 2019exp sport 900ace and that's the way that mine is.I used auto studs in mine with no protectors and haven't had any issues in 6200kms.

 

On the G4 sleds isn't the cooler integrated into the tunnel?That means no external cooler and no slots for protectors.I have a 2019exp sport 900ace and that's the way that mine is.I used auto studs in mine with no protectors and haven't had any issues in 6200kms.

Your right mine has no slots it's basically a flat aluminum tunnel... i studded mine with kold kutters and ran it 3 times at the end of the season ice fishing and didn't have any problem. The concern for me is bottoming out when i have 2 people on the sled and need to jump a pressure crack, or when i do some trail riding. Have you been riding anything bumpy? Or just flat in that 6200km? Have you checked underneath for scratches?

 

If you are willing to do some work, get a 3/4" x 3/4" strips of UHMW plastic, and screw/rivet them to the sides of the cooler. Position the strips AND the studs, so the paddles only will hit the strips. Some HyFax plastic also suitable, but costlier.

I see here many ruined tracks using those big studs. They will eventually break out of the track and take a chunk with it. A better solution is to use "Traction Screws." Most track paddles are flat at the tip, and indeed have a dimple where you can put them in. A nut driver on the end of an electric drill and you can put 250 screws in 20-30 minutes. However, as far as tunnel protection, you are in the same boat.

A common fallacy with either type of studding is that fewer studs are easier on the track. Not so. I snow, the stud does nothing and

exerts no pressure on the track. On ice, pavement or gravel, the force is divided among the studs, and thus the fewer studs, the more

stress. This is common in crossing a road.

 

Your right mine has no slots it's basically a flat aluminum tunnel... i studded mine with kold kutters and ran it 3 times at the end of the season ice fishing and didn't have any problem. The concern for me is bottoming out when i have 2 people on the sled and need to jump a pressure crack, or when i do some trail riding. Have you been riding anything bumpy? Or just flat in that 6200km? Have you checked underneath for scratches?

I never ride 2up so I don't have that to worry about.Also, with the automotive type stud, they don't protrude very much.I don't ride much ice and find they work ok for me.I do ride a fair amount of bumpy trail but not "flat out".I checked my tunnel at season end and only have a few minor scratches.When I had my studs installed by the dealer I asked if i should have protectors installed and was informed that it wasn't necessary.That being said tho' I would add protection if i was using anything longer than auto studs.

 

I never ride 2up so I don't have that to worry about.Also, with the automotive type stud, they don't protrude very much.I don't ride much ice and find they work ok for me.I do ride a fair amount of bumpy trail but not "flat out".I checked my tunnel at season end and only have a few minor scratches.When I had my studs installed by the dealer I asked if i should have protectors installed and was informed that it wasn't necessary.That being said tho' I would add protection if i was using anything longer than auto studs.

I am currently using the screw-in studs the screw in on the end of the flaps in pre-drilled holes already on my track, they add maybe a 1/4" to the track flaps.

 

So your point is it will scratch with or without them overtime, i might just remove the center screws for piece of mind and keep the left and right ones, after all i just need the traction on glare ice when im ice fishing, thats my main concern, i think just keeping the left and rights will be more then enough for me to get a better grip. And it will improve the chances for not puncturing the cooling fins if i bottom out right?

That is pretty much what I'm saying, it has worked well with my use.

 

$600 to install protectors? It took me about an hour to install my protectors on my expedition sport.

 

$600 to install protectors? It took me about an hour to install my protectors on my expedition sport.

What model do you have? Mine doesn't have the cooling fins, its just part of the underside of the tunnel, flat aluminum? Also are you able to post pictures? That would be great thanks

 

I have a 2019 Expedition SPORT 600 ACE.

 

Tunnel Protector Kit

Compatible with:

REV Gen4 16" with Ice Ripper track or Woody's studs
REV Gen4 (Wide) 20" with Ice Ripper and Silent Ice Cobra WT

$56.99 USD

• Protects your bulkhead and heat exchangers in all conditions.
• Provides proper protection for stud installation on pre-studded track.
• So unique with it's patent pending US20160152304.

BRP Installation instructions

Fit Guide

Studs and Tunnel Protector Kits

 

Installation time for the Gen4 kit is listed on BRP's own instructions as 0.1hr.

It was easy enough to install on the XS chassis Expy Sport (drill out tail flap rivets, slide them in through the tunnel hole, reinstall flap), this kit looks even easier as all you need to do is place the plastic protectors in the tunnel from below and rivet down through the tunnel through pre-drilled or center punched locations to secure it.

I have two studded XS chassis Expy Sports running #17 automotive-style lug studs in their stock 1.5" lug tracks. They will contact the tunnel during regular riding if you don't add the protectors. I have a 2013 Tundra LT that I also want to stud but not be doing so until I can install the XS chassis kit as well.

Wearing a hole through an aluminum cooler is not a fun or cheap fix.