Ski-Doo Snowmobiles Forum banner

1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
As far as I know, the Skidoo passenger heated-grip assembly for the 1+1 Linq seat system is the only available passenger heated grip assembly you can buy from Skidoo for a sled without passenger heated grips (unless you can buy the parts from the other Expedition editions or the Grand Touring, which I didn't check out). If you are shortsighted like me and bought the 1+1 heated grip assembly for your non 1+1 non LinQ sled, follow this tutorial. It can be done quite easily. The end result is nice and you get the factory Skidoo look (rather than trying to match some aftermarket varient). I've been lurking on the Dootalk forums for awhile now, so it's time to contribute something!

For the most part, you can follow the instructions that come with the kit. Much of it is relevant so just ignore any mention of other sleds, LinQ, or other chassis.

1) Start by removing the back seat. This may be an evening project in itself depending on skill. It is notoriously difficult to remove due to the bolt positions in the tunnel. Jack up the back of the sled to give your arms clearance and remove the 4 small bolts you see lining up under the rear seat.

2) You can go wherever from here, but I would wire the seat itself first, just in case this project takes a few nights of 1-2 hour sessions. Follow the instructions for bolting on the switch assembly, wind-guards, and wire routing pattern through the handles. Make sure those wires are patterned right in their connectors. They come out, but not easily. Refer to this video for how to remove incorrectly seated pins.

a) The snag you will come into here is that on the left handle (which has the switch assembly), the huge (and unnecessary) 24-pin connector will not have long enough wires to route properly into the seat. You have two options here. You can:

i) Splice and elongate the wires. This will let you hide that ugly connector inside the seat and will make your sled look clean and professionally wired.

or

ii) Do what I did and not splice the wires. I shrink-wrapped and taped the whole connector and tucked it up under the left handlebar. It is mostly hidden...

e623ebe8-b04a-430a-a5fe-959cb4c71f66.jpg


You can see under the handlebar that there is a spot for hiding the 24-pin connector.

I just want to give a note about routing into the seat. The LinQ 1+1 seat and handlebars have prebuilt routes for this kit, but as you can see in the picture it is still possible to cleanly route wiring on the Expy passenger seat.

20160201_210525.jpg


(right side)

When you unbolt the passenger grips, you can pull back the black synthetic cover to expose gaps around the circular mount. Refer to the pictures below to see where the wiring should come out on the bottom. If you extended your 24-pin connector wiring you can route both sides right through, but if you did like me you can route the right side down, but you will have to route up the jumper line (that goes between the seat and the sled's original wiring) on the left.

20160201_210949.jpg
(left side)

Underneath the seat things should look something like this:

20160201_210939.jpg


On the left side (right grip), you can see the connector coming down and connecting to the jumper line. ON the right side (left grip), you can see the jumper line running up to meet the 24-pin connector. Tie wrap this jumper line as best you can.

3) Things get easy now. You need to find the wiring harness underneath the gas tank and the instructions tell you to pull too many things off. Just remove the front seat, open your side panels, unscrew the plastic hold-down on the gas-cap threads (under the gas cap, which you have to remove), and unbolt the support rods on either side of the gas tank. This will enable you to lift the tank a few inches (don't force it too much) and get at the harness. Remove the tape on it and get your jumper line on it. You will end up with two easy 2-pin connectors to go between the seat wiring and harness under the gas tank. Good job BRP, this was the only easy part of the install.

****Remember to test the grips before you bolt the seat down. Fire up the sled, put on the e-brake and slowly put the throttle above 2000rpm to engage the heating. It takes longer for the passenger grips than the front****

4) Now you need to make a critical decision... Do you bolt down the seat as it is meant to in it's design or do you manufacture quick-disconnects for the rear-seat and scrap BRP's thoughtless passenger seat mount? I had no time to manufacture a quick-disconnect (it was time to get sledding damnit), but there are a number of people on this forum that have posted their systems. I plan on implementing one this summer.

-!Important!-

When you bolt back on the passenger seat add washers to the bolts. The tunnel is soft aluminum and you will torque the bolts through the tunnel if you aren't careful. Also, if the seat is permanent, add Loctite to the bolt threads. Likewise, add Loctite to the bolt threads of every bolt you remove. They WILL eventually wiggle loose on your sled through use.

Well I hope this was helpful to someone and please remember that this is not a definitive guide. It is a companion to the instructions in the kit, which aren't totally helpful. I hope I've been able to illuminate a few things.
 
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top