[alainm]

The small wire to connect to the solenoid should already be there, tye wrapped to the main harness, at least that's how it is on an S-chassis. The small red wire from the positive terminal goes to the ignition switch, that's the wire you have to add to the ignition switch, this same wire has the 30A fuse in it. Again, that's all from my S-chassis experience.

Your explanation of the negative wires sounds correct.

My 380F 2002 was also like that.

 

[fredoug2003]

The small wire to connect to the solenoid should already be there, tye wrapped to the main harness, at least that's how it is on an S-chassis. The small red wire from the positive terminal goes to the ignition switch, that's the wire you have to add to the ignition switch, this same wire has the 30A fuse in it. Again, that's all from my S-chassis experience.

Your explanation of the negative wires sounds correct.

ok from what i can see my circuit is complete, i just wonder how the charging system works.

 

[OldFleet]

That's what the wire with the 30 A fuse in it is for, charges from the rectifier/regulator through the ignition switch and to the positive terminal of the battery.

 

[fredoug2003]

That's what the wire with the 30 A fuse in it is for, charges from the rectifier/regulator through the ignition switch and to the positive terminal of the battery.

ok great, what about the rectifier will he do the job or do i need another one?

 

[OldFleet]

I'm not sure what comes stock on your machine. If it has no DC system on it now, then you have a regulator that simply shunts excessive AC voltage to ground to keep you at approx. 12V. This is the one that when it fails, you keep blowing your light bulbs. I'm thinking you need to change it out for a Rectifier/regulator, but somebody more qualified in the ZX world may be better to help you out there. If you can get them, compare the wiring diagrams of an electric start model with one that isn't. That will confirm. I don't have those diagrams for the ZX machines.

Sometimes you can use a Royal Distributing catalog to help, find out if there are different part numbers for estart vs. not estart machines.

 

[fredoug2003]

I'm not sure what comes stock on your machine. If it has no DC system on it now, then you have a regulator that simply shunts excessive AC voltage to ground to keep you at approx. 12V. This is the one that when it fails, you keep blowing your light bulbs. I'm thinking you need to change it out for a Rectifier/regulator, but somebody more qualified in the ZX world may be better to help you out there. If you can get them, compare the wiring diagrams of an electric start model with one that isn't. That will confirm. I don't have those diagrams for the ZX machines.

Sometimes you can use a Royal Distributing catalog to help, find out if there are different part numbers for estart vs. not estart machines.

ok from what i know the rectifier is the same that's in the legend and this one do have electric start

 

[fredoug2003]

but to be sure i will double check, worse case scenario it will not charge.
i wish i would know someone who knows ZX's by the tip of the finger

 

[alainm]

Yes the regulator has the DC section builtin, the yellow and yellow/black wires are the AC and the black and the red are for the DC. So you should be good to go.
All wires that have red as a primary colour are DC positive, if I remember correctly.

 

[OldFleet]

Alainm, that sounds like the S-Chassis then. The solid yellow is the regulated AC, for lights and such, the Yellow/black is used for the tachometer (and many other places, that's just one example). I believe the Yellow/black is where most components get their ground from. You don't want to ground any AC to the chassis, only the DC grounds to the chassis (frame).

Also, the red wires being DC positive sounds the same as what I'm familiar with as well. I just didn't know if the ZX all came with a rectifier or nor. I've worked briefly on my Uncle's 2004 Legend GT, and it has electric start but I believe I did find that the lights on that machine were using DC, but I didn't know about non electric start machines.

 

[fredoug2003]

Alainm, that sounds like the S-Chassis then. The solid yellow is the regulated AC, for lights and such, the Yellow/black is used for the tachometer (and many other places, that's just one example). I believe the Yellow/black is where most components get their ground from. You don't want to ground any AC to the chassis, only the DC grounds to the chassis (frame).

Also, the red wires being DC positive sounds the same as what I'm familiar with as well. I just didn't know if the ZX all came with a rectifier or nor. I've worked briefly on my Uncle's 2004 Legend GT, and it has electric start but I believe I did find that the lights on that machine were using DC, but I didn't know about non electric start machines.

like i said worst case scenario the circuit will not charge, but i think it will work since the regulator is the same as the legend.

 

[fredoug2003]

my dad had a legend to and he had estart, the regulator seem identical

 

[alainm]

my dad had a legend to and he had estart, the regulator seem identical

The ZX sleds that had the fan engine back then all utilized the same harness, if you look at the wiring diagram all are listed , MXZ, Legend, Summit, grand touring.
I believe the estart was stock on the grand touring and legend and optional on the MXZ but not the summit.

 

[fredoug2003]

The ZX sleds that had the fan engine back then all utilized the same harness, if you look at the wiring diagram all are listed , MXZ, Legend, Summit, grand touring.
I believe the estart was stock on the grand touring and legend and optional on the MXZ but not the summit.

it should work the way it is then

 

[alainm]

it should work the way it is then

My point exactly.

 

[fredoug2003]

My point exactly.

tanks alot, this is really helping me

 

[alainm]

If you compile all the posts this is the sum of it.
The chassis already has the wiring to accommodate the starter.
This is what you need to add.
The 30A fuse to the battery and connect the red to the starter, then the red/green connected to the starter solenoid.
You need the ring gear in back of the clutch and the starter bolted in.

 

[alainm]

If after that it does not work you need to start diagnosing what is wrong as the install is complete, or you need to bring it to a expert mechanic.

 

[fredoug2003]

If after that it does not work you need to start diagnosing what is wrong as the install is complete, or you need to bring it to a expert mechanic.

one last thing, what wire gauge do i need?

 

[alainm]

I would go for at least 10ga for the starter, as for the solenoid 16 or 18 should be good.

 

[OldFleet]

You should be able to get plenty of positive and ground cables from a sled wrecker, that's what I did. Saved me from having to make them up myself. I checked out the ones Canadian Tire carry, but the holes in the end were way to big for the little bolts on the Ski-doo battery.