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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

I figure someone out there might be an HVAC dood!

So... My forced hot water gas fired boiler in my rental condo is shot (29 years old - it probably should be right?) Condo is 1000 sq ft. has 55 feet of baseboard heat. 2 floors, end unit, new replacement windows, new slider. 1 and 1/2 baths.

I am going with Hi-efficiency because I do not have the Cash to be dropping $4500 for a low-efficiency boiler... By getting a hi-efficiency I will be eligible for a 7 year loan at 0%.

So I have gotten quotes as follows for all Hi-efficiency units

#1: HTP Elite EFT-55 boiler will use existing conventional h/w heater - $6750
#2: Burnham Alpine 80 with 30 galloon indirect water tank - includes uses hard pipe to my gas dryer - $10,500
#3: Rinnai Q85sn Boiler with HTP Superstor 45 indirect waer tank - $8200

I have 1 more quote coming and I asked #1 to requote with an indirect tank and the Burnham Alpine 80 boiler.

Any help / thoughts ? I am too stupid when it comes to this stuff... but $10,500 seems a bit high.. especially since the guy wants $8400 to install the boiler that he already leaked out is gonna cost him $2900.

Thanks!

-Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am going to get 2 more quotes and then with 6 quotes - I guess that is enough time and enough bs to sift through. I did get the 4 quotes from companies mentioned on Angies-list all with good ratings... I am really starting to think that Angies-list users are about 70% stupid / ignorant or just don't care about their money / nor quality....

So some more info - I am going hi-efficency and replacing the hotwater heater (HWH) as well because I am eligible for a 0% loan for up to 10K for 7 years. So I want to bring the heater (needs replacement) and HWH (only 4 years old but only a 6 yr warranty) up to 2013 code standards. To do so I need a hi-eff unit with an AFUE of 90% or greater, I have a problem with make-up air in the utility room right now, so by going direct vent on a new boiler I eleminate that issue all together as it will have PVC intake and exhaust. I also must provide a quote in order to apply for the loan
 

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I upgraded my home a few years ago from an "Ack-O-Matic" boiler to a Weil McLaine Ultra with an indirect water heater, absolutley the best money ever spent. Here are a few things to make sure your contractors are doing

1. Full heat loss on the house: if John Q. is just saying you have this many BTU's now just replce it with the same, get them out of your house fast. If you dont know what your space needs find out and get a full report. Not knowing will cost you $$$$ as you may be oversized on the boiler (very common 30 years ago) or your base board may not be adequate. My house had a 120,000 btu boiler in it (natura gas was cheap in the 70's) I only need 32,000 Btu's, thankfully we only used the old system for one month.

2. Pumps: The new modulating high efficiency boilers generaly need slower pumps than what was traditionally used 30 years ago especially when comined with baseboard. Improper pumps can decrease efficiency.

3. Training: Ask if the contractor especially the person doing the install if they have been to a factory training course. The new high efficiency boilers sespecially on demand ones have alot of new configuration REQUIREMENTS i.e. header sizing, pump sizing, etc.. if the contractor is just doing a swap out and not evalutaing the system and piping as whole against the manufacturer REQUIREMENTS its going to cost you $$ in the long run and your efficiency.

4. Price: your contractor may be including the cost of pumps, controls, new piping etc.. in the price, which may be leading to them being higher than you expect.

Hope this helps a bit.
 
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