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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did some serching on the forum and I did find one that was posted on how to remove teh track but i have some ?'s so i started my own post.

1. How do I actually get the chaincase oil out with out making a mess

2. What seals or gaskets do i need to replace

3. How do i actually get the track out

4. What lube do i used, ATF, 80w-90?

5. Is there anything i should look for on a sled with 5k+ miles on it? Driveshaft or similar

6. Is there any bearings i need to lube when putting things back together?

Thank you, Im hoping to do this tommorow.
 

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For the chain case you can try to stick a bucket under neath to catch the oil.
You might need to do the seals on the drive shaft bearings.
For the track you need to take the drive shaft out to get the track off.
I just used diff oil in the chain case (seems to work fine).
Check the speedo cable side of the drive shaft make sure the baring has grease, and check all the rear suspention grease ports while you got it out.
 

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1. there is a drain plug on the bottom where the exhaust comes out.

2. May need to change the chain case seal, May not, you can re use it a few times.

3. Just follow the rev instructions ( I used the same instructions and it is pretty much the same) in the tech section.

4. check bearings on drive shaft as the one on clutch side may need to be changed. check your cogs for wear.

5. re pack your clutch side bearing.

I changed my track and was the first time I did it a month ago and it wasn't too bad. Took awhile since it was my first time and was reading instructions that i printed out from the tech section. I found it easier with a second set of hands. You need a good set of clip pliers. And also had a hard time getting the skid back in but with help it wasn't bad.

Good Luck Bob
4. I use synthetic from the dealer which is a lil more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
marley102 said:
1. there is a drain plug on the bottom where the exhaust comes out.

2. May need to change the chain case seal, May not, you can re use it a few times.

3. Just follow the rev instructions ( I used the same instructions and it is pretty much the same) in the tech section.

4. check bearings on drive shaft as the one on clutch side may need to be changed. check your cogs for wear.

5. re pack your clutch side bearing.

I changed my track and was the first time I did it a month ago and it wasn't too bad. Took awhile since it was my first time and was reading instructions that i printed out from the tech section. I found it easier with a second set of hands. You need a good set of clip pliers. And also had a hard time getting the skid back in but with help it wasn't bad.

Good Luck Bob
4. I use synthetic from the dealer which is a lil more.
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Thanks for the help I will read up on the tech section, I dred going to the dealer for parts cuase the guys at the dealer here are jack asses and never have any parts. I called about a part a month ago and they never got back to me, or knew what i was talking about. It was a gasket for my carb, come on!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am working on my sled right now but there is a pan in the way on beneath the chaincase, and I cant find the drain plug. There is an aluminum plate in the way that is rivited on. Can someone help me on this, am i over looking something or do i need to drill the rivits out?
 

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just undo the cover and let it spill, i know it makes a mess but you will have the whole chaincase out anyway and could clean the belly pan then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did read that and im stuck at finding the drain plug, there is an aluminum plate in the way has anyone had that problem? or do i have to drill the rivits out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the rev thread that i got told me not to take the chaincase all the way out, but your idea sounds better then dropping my pan, I might just make something so it runs out the belly pan, Im in warming up, unheated work places suck.
 

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greenspeed said:
I did read that and im stuck at finding the drain plug, there is an aluminum plate in the way has anyone had that problem? or do i have to drill the rivits out?
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i wouldnt drill rivets out...

i changed the track on my 02 700 this summer..

if i remember right we just let the oil drain into the belly pan.. just took the chain case cover off.... sure you end up having to soak and clean but you'll likely doo that while in there anyways...

good luck..
yup tech section is what i used as well...
 

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Should be there with like a 1.5 inch hole or just pull the chaincase cover off as stated by tigerdog. It doesn't really matter just throw some shop towels under it. let us know how it goes.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
marley102 said:
Should be there with like a 1.5 inch hole or just pull the chaincase cover off as stated by tigerdog. It doesn't really matter just throw some shop towels under it. let us know how it goes.

Bob
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I got as far as where i knew i would get. I need some snap ring pliars for the speedo side. Im going to sears after class to get them and back to work. Track should be in tonight and rail extensions are ganna be here wendseday, then to the radar runs on saturday. Its ganna be a sweet week and year riding a 136'
 

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This is what I did, Just tip the sled on the chain case side, open up the chain case and use absorbant cloth or rags to suck up the oil. Make sure to put a old blanket on the floor so not to scratch the sled. I also removed my cowling to make this easier. I then put the sled back on the track and started my job of removing the track. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i didnt tip the sled, but i did get oil kinda everywhere, Ill spray it out come spring to get what ever i missed with rags, some oil slipped under the chain case. When it gets done its riding time, as for as cleaning thats in my opinion left to the off season. but i will keep you posted, checked with ups and my extensions will be here wensday, so she'll be done then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
worked on the sled tonight got the driveshaft out, had to take the chain case off to get it out easier, just seemed easier 5 bolts including the caliper and it came out. The one thing that i found weird when i went to put it all back together was the massive amount of rubbing on the chaincase. I took a look to see if the washer behind the gears where there, they where. Then cleaned it up and put the gear back in, the gear was touching the chain case, and I was like, okay this is how it came out. Looked at the rev on the tread for doing the track on that, and notice that the notch on the gear wasnt shown so i was like that thing need to go in and the jack "edit for bad language" that removed the track before me didnt put the gear in right. (i bought the sled with 3200 miles on it). Filled the chaincase up and got ready for the extensions that are supose to be here tommorow. I just wanted to know i added chaincase oil and its supose to be 8oz that I add and i filled it up to the threads on the dip stick, is that right? anything else i need to know before the skid goes in?
 

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yup thats right.....as for the skid you might want some help I know I needed it. I don't know if there are any tricks but I found it easier when its on its side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
that what my buddy is for. It was also easier with two to get the chaincase re-aligned and put in. and wanted to add, I got a cabin on clearwater lake in EMO, ON. just noticed you were from fort frances. sweet!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am from Southern Wisconsin, but im going to school in Michigan. There has been a cabin in our family for almost 40 years up on clearwater lake. It is just past downtown Emo, then down some good wholesome canadian gravel roads. Its kinda like a little town down by the lake, theres a store, garbage dump, and places to do things
God I love Canada, but i cant be a priveledge Canadian at this moment in time.
 
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